yes you need to replace this cable too since it is the one to supply power to the car through the engine compartment fuse box. and am I missing something but what is wrong with with 13.6volts on the Ipack display???Nothing......
and yes the wire that clips into the battery box goes to a tranisit isolation device that unhooks battery power until the car reaches the dealer and is PDI'd. but if this wire ever gets crossshorted either mechanically or corrosion it will keep the car running after you take the key out. on your chime the key in ignition switch door is sticking. it is a metal door that you see when you look at the key hole. If is sticks open after you remove the key it will think the key is in the switch. Itll chime and not arm. lube it and hope it doesnt do it again. they do wear and stick and you need to replace the ignition swtich then...no biggy

 

Jagman, looking at the diagrams, F27 powers either your tranny computer (early 2004) or your radio (late 2004). If both of those are working, then there is a problem with how the voltage was measured. Beyond that, I'm at a loss myself. Short of having a problem with the instrument cluster, not sure what is going on. if you want to mess around with the wires to the alternator to verify that it is getting good voltage, we can do that. But, as long as the alternator is outputting 13.6ish VDC (which you can measure across the battery), the battery light should not come on.

The only other check that I would tell you to try is to access say the cigarette lighter and see what the voltage is there. That should be at the same voltage as the battery. If you see the voltage lower inside the cab of the car, then you have a power wire issue between the engine bay fuse box and the passenger bay fuse box. That is leading to a voltage difference and the battery light being on.

 

I ditto Brutal on this one. That + cable that runs to the fuse box goes low and right across a body bolt. Looks okay from above but check the underside. Mine wore through the insulation and actually sparked enough to start smoldering. Caused a complete shut down of all systems.

 

Thanks for all the replies guys, some reason I hadn't recieved a notification that I got replies for the last 3 replies. I'm glad I checked back. Could one of you guys tell me what that + cable is that goes to the fuse box so if it is bad I know what to get. Also if you could tell me how to find Jaguar part numbers. I've had this problem with the part and other parts. I really need to at least find what the part is called myself. Thanks for all the help. I will check back tomorrow.

 

Just waiting on that part from the Positive Cable to the fuse box to get here. I guess it is called the Lead Link. Anyway wish it would get here soon and that would fix my problem. Just thought I would update everyone

 

I got my lead link today and got it on, battery light is still on. I checked the power to the fuse now though and it does have power now. Fuse f27. I did pull the fuse one time and started it up and the light went off. Started it back up and it was back on. Got to looking in my book at what each fuse was. I decided to pull the generator fuse, check it and then put it back in. I then started my car and the light was off for one startup then it was back on. What does everyone here think since I now have power to that fuse now. It and the cigarette lighter both had read close to 14 on the volt meter. Anyone having any ideas since getting power to fuse f27 seems to be fixed?

 

Jagman, I would tell you at this point to look at the voltage at say the cigarette lighter (or can just go across the battery) and see if you are up at 13.7 VDC or higher when the battery light is on. If this is the case, then odds are you are looking at a problem inside of the instrument cluster, not a problem with the electrical system. It seems like you have pretty much replaced everything else.

 

So Thermo, if it the cluster, i suppose that means going to the dealership and having them program it for the mileage and everything? I seen its like an 800 dollar part. Having that light on isn't hurting anything then besides not knowing when something with the battery really is going bad I guess? Yeah the cigarette lighter had close to 14 VDC. Thanks for the help.

 

Jagman, I have looked at the diagrams for your car and looking at them, it can be 1 of 2 things as I see it. It can be the instrument cluster or the ECU. Unfortunately, there is no simple check that you can do to distinguish between the two as you are looking at data that is being sent over the CAN bus (digital signal). So, this is where I would recommend taking it a shop and having them read the signal off of the CAN bus with their instrumentation and seeing if you see the "battery fault" indication on the CAN bus. If you see it there, then you are looking at a bad ECU. If you don't see it there, then you are looking at a bad instrument cluster. I can say that it isn't the CAN bus as you are getting other signals through the CAN bus, so, we know all the fiber connections are good. I wish the news was better, that is how things are looking at the moment.

 

I have almost the same problem with my '04 Jag X-Type. What was the ultimate resolution for you? For three years in a row, my new battery has gone dead, and I have had to replace it. I buy a new 5-6 year warranty battery each time, and almost like clockwork, after 12 months, the battery just dies. I take it to the Jaguar dealer, and they put in a new battery. It happened again this weekend, the 3rd year in a row, a new battery dies after only 12 months! I am fed up with this! This time, instead of going back to the Jaguar dealer, I compounded my frustration by going to NTB. They said the problem was the alternator, that was ausing the battery to prematurely drain/go bad after only 12 months. Sounded plausible, I let them go ahead and put in a new alternator. Well, went from bad to worse. The alternator was after market, this resulted in the battery light coming on (it had never come on before before), AC blowing hot, and windows not closing with the one touch. Threw up my hands - told NTB to put the old alternator back in, and just charge me for the new battery. Sorry if I hijacked your thread, new to this on-line world, still learning the etiquette. Any advice is welcome.

 

longhofn57, to me, it sounds like they put in a wrong alternator or they didn't plug in one of the plugs all the way, leading to a connection that wasn't making up right.

As for the alternator killing the battery, the only way for this to happen is for either the alternator to not output enough power (the factory alternator is a 160 amp unit, so, unless you are keeping the car at idle for a long time, running high beams, defroster, seat heaters, rear defrost, the stereo cranked up, fog lights, and whatever else electronic you can, you are not going to run into this issue. The other way is for the alternator to overcharge the battery. This can potentially be caused by a high resistance connection between the battery lead and the lead going to the fuse box. This would cause the ECM module to see the alternator as outputting a low voltage, which would then cause the alternator to output a higher voltage and overcharge the battery.

The simple check for this is to take a multimeter, connect it up across the battery with the engine off. Now, start the car and watch the multimeter. You should see the multimeter jump up from 12.6 VDC to about 14.4 VDC, hang there for about 5 seconds or so and then slowly lower down to 13.7 VDC. It should then remain there as you rev the engine or you turn electrical things on and off in the car. If you are seeing the voltage stay up at 14.0+ VDC, then we have another issue and let me know. We can narrow things down from there.

 

Wow Thermo. Thx so much for your time and expertise. I wish I was more mechanically inclined. I don't have a multimeter and I am note sure where/what the "ECM module" is. So, "high resistance connection between the battery lead and the lead going to the fuse box" is a separate issue that may explain the problem. Sounds like from your assessment the alternator, per se, may not be the issue. Let me get with my dealer and provide this analysis to them. Thx so much!

 

Hey everyone I'm back, been doing some research and I was wondering if anyone knows what the PATS is? I am getting 3 codes from it

1.PATS Tranceiver Signal is Not Received
(Not Connected, Damaged, or Wiring)

2.PATS Received Incorrect Key-Code from Ignition Key
Transponder (unprogrammed Encoded Ignition Key)

3.PATS Ignition Key Transponder Signal is Not Received
(Damaged Key or non-PATS Key)

As always your help is appreciated.Thanks.

 

well I found out what it stands for Passive Anti -Theft System (PATS) but could this be causing my problems, I'm trying to do some research but someones advice that actually knows more about it would be better,thanks.