BIG PROBLEM! Broke intake manifold bolt!
#1
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I posted this on another forum but I'm pretty panicky right now...
EEEK.
Did a spark plug change... WHile screwing the intake manifold back
in ONE OF THE 6 main BOLTS BROKE INSIDE ITS HOLE!!! (One of the bolts that screws it into the lower manifold)YIKES.
I cant get the broken piece out, so thats a no go to just replace
with a new bolt.
WHAT CAN I DO??? IVE REALLY DONE IT NOW!!!
WOuld it be feasible to use some DIY gasket material and make some
extra thick gaskets to put under there to make up the missing bolt?
Its one of the more middle-ish bolts, not an outside one, so would
my solution work? MAN I STINK!!!
Thanks all...
EEEK.
Did a spark plug change... WHile screwing the intake manifold back
in ONE OF THE 6 main BOLTS BROKE INSIDE ITS HOLE!!! (One of the bolts that screws it into the lower manifold)YIKES.
I cant get the broken piece out, so thats a no go to just replace
with a new bolt.
WHAT CAN I DO??? IVE REALLY DONE IT NOW!!!
WOuld it be feasible to use some DIY gasket material and make some
extra thick gaskets to put under there to make up the missing bolt?
Its one of the more middle-ish bolts, not an outside one, so would
my solution work? MAN I STINK!!!
Thanks all...
#2
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i would first try an ez-out. you can get them at any hardware store or a place like home depot. in a nutshell, you drill a small hole into the broken bolt. then you use the ez-out, which is a reverse threaded part. as you tighten it in, it extracts the broken bolt.
#4
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yes, what you do at home is different than what you do at a shop.
first you need access to the broken bit.. try to tap it counter clockwise and see if it comes out..
normally once the bolt is broken and if it is not seized then you can get it out that way.
Next you need to drill a hole down the middle and try the e-z out, or extractor.
failing both those you need an arc welder (mig) and you need to place a bigger nut over the broken bolt, fill the centre of the nut with weld material such that it attaches to the broken bit, then you can unscrew it..
a pain for sure in all cases..
wonder why they made the plugs so hard to change...
first you need access to the broken bit.. try to tap it counter clockwise and see if it comes out..
normally once the bolt is broken and if it is not seized then you can get it out that way.
Next you need to drill a hole down the middle and try the e-z out, or extractor.
failing both those you need an arc welder (mig) and you need to place a bigger nut over the broken bolt, fill the centre of the nut with weld material such that it attaches to the broken bit, then you can unscrew it..
a pain for sure in all cases..
wonder why they made the plugs so hard to change...
#6
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Thanks guys!! I posted this reply in the other site's forum since I go to both... So here it is.
Let me point out that the bolt broke *inside* the hole, so nothing is exposed that I can grab a hold of.
These bolts are so cheap and flimsy! I don't think I was even close to torque specs.
Anyways, Im going to try the left-hand drill bit trick and make a small hole and hope it comes out... I read to soak it in some bolt releasing oil for a few days first so I'll do that.
I'll keep you guys updated!
Let me point out that the bolt broke *inside* the hole, so nothing is exposed that I can grab a hold of.
These bolts are so cheap and flimsy! I don't think I was even close to torque specs.
Anyways, Im going to try the left-hand drill bit trick and make a small hole and hope it comes out... I read to soak it in some bolt releasing oil for a few days first so I'll do that.
I'll keep you guys updated!
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#8
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Keep in mind I am driving the car with this one manifold bolt missing...
And now, 2 days later, a check engine light has gone on. Can the bolt affect this? Arg!!!
I notice I get white smoke out the exhaust when Im idle at red lights, yes its cold outside but it never goes away! Always happens at the red lights! Could this be part of the bolt breaking problem?
And now, 2 days later, a check engine light has gone on. Can the bolt affect this? Arg!!!
I notice I get white smoke out the exhaust when Im idle at red lights, yes its cold outside but it never goes away! Always happens at the red lights! Could this be part of the bolt breaking problem?
#9
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Ok and this is why you.....never mind i won't go there....
Anyway, you have a vacuum leak and your engine is running lean. Keep driving with the vacuum leak and you'll be asking for more problems. The oxygen sensors have picked up the leans ratio and your computer is compensating for the leak by adding more fuel, your gas milage will decrease and your performance level will decrease as well.
With that leak, you risk the chance of "burning" your valves and piston. Not to mention the dirt and what not that is getting sucked into your cylinder scratching your cylinder wall.
The removal is simple just time comsuming since you need to remove everything you installed to get to the broken screw/bolt. I have encounterd dozens of broken studs and only rarely have I had to drill. If the break is clean (which it probably is) get an "Awl"-- a very pointy sharp end, use that to grab the tip of the broken stud, and carefully rotate it out of the hole. Takes approx 20 minutes and no damage or drilling required.
Good luck. here is a pic...
http://cgi.ebay.com/3-Leather-Bead-A...QQcmdZViewItem
Anyway, you have a vacuum leak and your engine is running lean. Keep driving with the vacuum leak and you'll be asking for more problems. The oxygen sensors have picked up the leans ratio and your computer is compensating for the leak by adding more fuel, your gas milage will decrease and your performance level will decrease as well.
With that leak, you risk the chance of "burning" your valves and piston. Not to mention the dirt and what not that is getting sucked into your cylinder scratching your cylinder wall.
The removal is simple just time comsuming since you need to remove everything you installed to get to the broken screw/bolt. I have encounterd dozens of broken studs and only rarely have I had to drill. If the break is clean (which it probably is) get an "Awl"-- a very pointy sharp end, use that to grab the tip of the broken stud, and carefully rotate it out of the hole. Takes approx 20 minutes and no damage or drilling required.
Good luck. here is a pic...
http://cgi.ebay.com/3-Leather-Bead-A...QQcmdZViewItem
#13
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Common problem when removing upper manifold is to break the lower manifold nut off in the lower manifold. No worries. Remove all the bolts you can and usually 1 or 2 bolts that only tighten into the lower manifold do not come out. They just spin. Do not try and drill out the top of the head. Metal shavings can get into the cylinders. Get a small pry bar or claw and just pull out the bolt with the nut or just simply pull on it. Will have to remove the nut anyway later on if you want. Also the bolts that tie the upper through the lower to to block are sufficent to hold the 2 manifolds together and create an air tight seal. After removing I epoxied the nuts back into the lower and waited 3 day to harden suficiently then when putting back together just snug down. dont over tighten the bolts to the lower manifold. Its been perfect for 4 years now.
Hope this helps anyone looking for a solution.
Hope this helps anyone looking for a solution.
#14
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No harm at all in replying to an old thread if it is relevant, and it was in this case. It helps eliminate multiple threads on the same topic which I think is useful.
Having said that, and this is just a suggestion, you might want to start out by saying something like " I know this is an old thread however it is still relevant".
Having said that, and this is just a suggestion, you might want to start out by saying something like " I know this is an old thread however it is still relevant".
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