Blowing F28 fuse Ignition switch
#1
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Hi Guys,
All problems should have a good story. I spent the last few weeks cleaning up some minor check engine codes to get ready for my E-Check (pollution test). I will tell you how and what I fixed to pass in another post. They did a sniffer test and she passed with flying colors. It was then pulled to the end of the building for the gas cap test. They turned the car off and she also passed the cap test. Paperwork in hand I walked back to the car, turned the key and nothing. No dash lights, no crank, no start. EEEKKK
I now have a line of cars behind me. No pushing it out of the way as it was with out power and locked into Park. EEEEKKK
It took me 15 minutes to find a link on my dying cell phone telling me how to do the manual release. It is very simple and EZ to do. You ALL should practice it before you need it. They pushed me out of the building and said at least you passed the E-test!![Smile](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
AAA towed me the mile home (only my 2nd tow ever) and I found F28 Mini 15 amp Bad "Ignition switch" under the bonnet ( hood) blown.Put a new fuse in, she started right up, rolled the windows up, got out to close the bonnet and it stopped. the same fuse was blown.
Now when I replace the fuse it blows as soon as the key is turned.
Many things are controlled off the Ignition switch that can short. Has anyone had this happen to them? Any idea of a good starting point to look for the short before I start ripping it all apart?
All problems should have a good story. I spent the last few weeks cleaning up some minor check engine codes to get ready for my E-Check (pollution test). I will tell you how and what I fixed to pass in another post. They did a sniffer test and she passed with flying colors. It was then pulled to the end of the building for the gas cap test. They turned the car off and she also passed the cap test. Paperwork in hand I walked back to the car, turned the key and nothing. No dash lights, no crank, no start. EEEKKK
I now have a line of cars behind me. No pushing it out of the way as it was with out power and locked into Park. EEEEKKK
It took me 15 minutes to find a link on my dying cell phone telling me how to do the manual release. It is very simple and EZ to do. You ALL should practice it before you need it. They pushed me out of the building and said at least you passed the E-test!
![Smile](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
AAA towed me the mile home (only my 2nd tow ever) and I found F28 Mini 15 amp Bad "Ignition switch" under the bonnet ( hood) blown.Put a new fuse in, she started right up, rolled the windows up, got out to close the bonnet and it stopped. the same fuse was blown.
Now when I replace the fuse it blows as soon as the key is turned.
Many things are controlled off the Ignition switch that can short. Has anyone had this happen to them? Any idea of a good starting point to look for the short before I start ripping it all apart?
#3
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It stopped raining for a bit so I got out and did a few more tests.
It blows the fuse as soon as the key is turned one place to ON. You also hear the alarm (fast beeping) just like it does when the shifter is not all the way in park, for a minute or so till it times out. The red light by the coin holder is not lit/on so I do not think it is a theft lockup.
I put my test light in place of the fuse, to light up and show the short. Turn the key on and it lit up. I pulled all fuses and relays in the fuse box, by the motor and, the light stayed lit.
I would think that everything that is powered on when the key is turned to ON would have its own fuse and not be the problem. It is only a 15 amp fuse so the load is not that big, but why does it knock out so many things on the car and disable it???
Looking for a wiring diagram now.
It blows the fuse as soon as the key is turned one place to ON. You also hear the alarm (fast beeping) just like it does when the shifter is not all the way in park, for a minute or so till it times out. The red light by the coin holder is not lit/on so I do not think it is a theft lockup.
I put my test light in place of the fuse, to light up and show the short. Turn the key on and it lit up. I pulled all fuses and relays in the fuse box, by the motor and, the light stayed lit.
I would think that everything that is powered on when the key is turned to ON would have its own fuse and not be the problem. It is only a 15 amp fuse so the load is not that big, but why does it knock out so many things on the car and disable it???
Looking for a wiring diagram now.
#4
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Larry-Cleveland (04-30-2017)
#5
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With the wiring diagram in hand...errr screen I went digging.
I see that with the switch on R4 accessory relay (optional) is closed. I do not have an R4 relay. I would expect there to be a jumper on the two wires that the relay switch, but there is none. I checked my other car and it is the same way.
I also see that it powers F69 7.5Amp on the inside fuse panel. Removed it...still, blows fuses.
I pulled out the fuse box by the motor and split it open. Everything looks good, no exposed, heat stressed, or shorted wires. I followed the F28 red wire for 3" and it looked good.
I have a spare steering column and looked at the switch. Does not look overly complicated or prone to damage. I will pull the plastic covers off the column to see how it looks in there.
I am quickly running out of simple things to check...
I see that with the switch on R4 accessory relay (optional) is closed. I do not have an R4 relay. I would expect there to be a jumper on the two wires that the relay switch, but there is none. I checked my other car and it is the same way.
I also see that it powers F69 7.5Amp on the inside fuse panel. Removed it...still, blows fuses.
I pulled out the fuse box by the motor and split it open. Everything looks good, no exposed, heat stressed, or shorted wires. I followed the F28 red wire for 3" and it looked good.
I have a spare steering column and looked at the switch. Does not look overly complicated or prone to damage. I will pull the plastic covers off the column to see how it looks in there.
I am quickly running out of simple things to check...
#6
#7
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#8
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Jim,
I disconnect the inertia switch, the fuse still blows. I then replace the ignition switch.
Bing, Bam, Boom It worked. My cat is back prrrrrring.
Another 15-minute fix that took 8 hours. But is cost me nothing.
Thanks for sticking by me Jim
I disconnect the inertia switch, the fuse still blows. I then replace the ignition switch.
Bing, Bam, Boom It worked. My cat is back prrrrrring.
Another 15-minute fix that took 8 hours. But is cost me nothing.
Thanks for sticking by me Jim
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Last edited by Larry-Cleveland; 04-30-2017 at 03:35 PM.
#9
#11
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It's what we are here for, happy trails.
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