Bought 2002 X-Type - tons of electrical problems, help please!!
#81
03-10-2015, 10:24 PM
Ive come here to thank the ones who helped me with my old X-Type, not you sawduster. Then I was forced to defend the Taurus from people that didn't know there were two engines and transmissions in them. And finally I asked people what I should buy as a fun car. Today I finally bought it. I got a 2009 Mazda RX-8 Turbo. I do know that these engines only last 80,000-90,000 miles but I know that they are extremely cheap to remove and replace. I got one with a new engine and 16psi turbo and an aftermarket exhaust that I'm not aware of the name yet. Red with black and red interior. I'm not a fan of the gauges but I can't like everything. It has 4 door technically so the kids can come along and it's a 6 speed stick. Thank you Sawduster for saying "We get it, we know the X-Type has its share of problems, but we're determined to meet those challenges and keep that Jaguar in our garages." You nailed it on the head. Jaguars, after owning 3 of them, are pieces of sh*t and that why there are in yours and everyone elses garage, getting worked on, instead of on the road, where even my son's new Taurus is. Thanks to all that helped me with my miserable Jag and sorry to all that suffer with them. I know every car has its problems but damn.......... And it wasn't the car, my other two XJ6's were just the same crap. I would say the X-Type and S-Type has to go down in history as one of Ford's biggest embarrassments. Go Hyundai for being better, and go Mazda.....ZOOM ZOOM!!
#83
05-02-2016, 05:26 PM
If you buy a $5000.00 car for $2000.0 because it has "problems" -you are in no position to judge well maintained, good examples of that car. I have owned 60's and 70's Jaguars. Yes, they had their electrical issues. But I loved them anyway. When I decided to buy an X-Type, I searched for the best one I could find. I found an '03 2 owner car that had been well maintained. I paid $4500.00 for it. I have now owned it for almost a year. It has been one of the most dependable and "fun to drive" cars I have ever owned -and I have owned probably over 100 cars. Some people just like to bash Jaguars. Those people should not be on this forum!
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geewilicurs (05-04-2016)
#84
05-03-2016, 02:06 PM
Man, this old thread.......Kind of still ticks me off. Someone that bought a 10+ year old car with a lot of known potentially complicated issues and of dubious history for a cheap price figuring he could fix it. Then comes to find out he was in way over his head, so, of course, it was the car's fault and because his experience wasn't good that must mean ALL of them must be junk. I do have to admit that I would be curious to find out what his experience has been so far with that Mazda RX8. Maybe by now all of those cars have been determined to be crap as well by his discerning eye.
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geewilicurs (05-04-2016)
#85
05-03-2016, 03:43 PM
Veteran Member
Thank you Sawduster for saying "We get it, we know the X-Type has its share of problems, but we're determined to meet those challenges and keep that Jaguar in our garages." You nailed it on the head. Jaguars, after owning 3 of them, are pieces of sh*t and that why there are in yours and everyone elses garage, getting worked on, instead of on the road, where even my son's new Taurus is. Thanks to all that helped me with my miserable Jag and sorry to all that suffer with them. I know every car has its problems but damn.......... And it wasn't the car, my other two XJ6's were just the same crap. I would say the X-Type and S-Type has to go down in history as one of Ford's biggest embarrassments. Go Hyundai for being better, and go Mazda.....ZOOM ZOOM!![/QUOTE]
I have owned a lot of Jaguars (that is not boasting; the more you know about Jaguars, the more you love them) in fact I have had 31 of them ranging from a 1966 Mk 2 to a 2007 XK and every model in between except the S Type. In case you are about to object that I obviously don't keep them long, that is wrong. I have always owned more than one, sometimes five at a time, and for long periods (if 15 years qualifies as a long period). Let me just speak about my experience with X-Types. We have owned 3 of them (and one of my sons has owned two more); of the 3 we still own and use as daily transport 2 of them. The 2.5 litre manual shift that my wife uses daily sits outside 24 hours a day. In the 12 years of daily service it has had ONE repair, if I can even call it that: replacement of an 02 sensor. My Sportwagon has had ZERO repairs. Both cars look new, both drive as new. No electrical or mechanical issues whatever. For the record, my 2004 XJ8 and my 2007 XK have a similar record. The 1966 Mk 2 did have a problem last year - a broken distributor rotor (cost: $5). But these cars are properly serviced (oil and filter change once a year whether they need it or not) and driven carefully ( not slowly - quite the contrary).
When you buy an abused, neglected car of whatever make, you are asking for trouble. The blanket and semi-vulgar statement about your assessment of Jaguar quality is simply not the experience of the vast majority of owners of modern Jaguars.
I have owned a lot of Jaguars (that is not boasting; the more you know about Jaguars, the more you love them) in fact I have had 31 of them ranging from a 1966 Mk 2 to a 2007 XK and every model in between except the S Type. In case you are about to object that I obviously don't keep them long, that is wrong. I have always owned more than one, sometimes five at a time, and for long periods (if 15 years qualifies as a long period). Let me just speak about my experience with X-Types. We have owned 3 of them (and one of my sons has owned two more); of the 3 we still own and use as daily transport 2 of them. The 2.5 litre manual shift that my wife uses daily sits outside 24 hours a day. In the 12 years of daily service it has had ONE repair, if I can even call it that: replacement of an 02 sensor. My Sportwagon has had ZERO repairs. Both cars look new, both drive as new. No electrical or mechanical issues whatever. For the record, my 2004 XJ8 and my 2007 XK have a similar record. The 1966 Mk 2 did have a problem last year - a broken distributor rotor (cost: $5). But these cars are properly serviced (oil and filter change once a year whether they need it or not) and driven carefully ( not slowly - quite the contrary).
When you buy an abused, neglected car of whatever make, you are asking for trouble. The blanket and semi-vulgar statement about your assessment of Jaguar quality is simply not the experience of the vast majority of owners of modern Jaguars.
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geewilicurs (05-04-2016)
#86
05-03-2016, 06:23 PM
Problems...
I can maybe help you with a few items on your X-type but not all. Another expert will have to chime in on those.
No speedometer/mileage change... This is a ABS problem which will trigger the Check Engine Light as well as the ABS light. Mine also said Dynamic Stability Control Fault and the cruise control was not working either. Using a V-Checker code scanner it revealed a problem with the driver's side rear ABS input. It turned out to be a badly deteriorated Reluctor Ring (some call it a Tone ring). I fixed it by:
Removing the drive'rs side rear wheel (after jacking it up and putting a jack stand under it). Removed the ABS sensor and let it hang. Unbolted the brake caliper and let it hang. Put a floor jack under the lower spring mount and raised it up a bit to take some tension off everything. Unbolted the long flat arm that extends from the wheel hub assembly toward the front of the car (two bolts). Unbolted the uppermost arm at the hub. Unbolted the rear bolt holding the hub assembly in place. Unbolted the short fat link arm (for lack of a better name) to the left of the shock, removing the bolt closest to the body, not at down close to where the lower shock mount is. Unbolted the CV shaft nut inside the rotor (must replace with a new one). removed the rotor and set it aside. Pulled the hub assembly toward myself and pivoted it downward somewhat, enough to get the outer splined CV joint shaft free from the bearing (I gently tapped the splined shaft to be sure it was free). Once the CV shaft was free I rested the outer end on the hub assembly. Then using a long flat blade screw driver I pried the inner CV shaft out of the differential. Upon inspection, there was not much left of the Reluctor ring on the outer CV joint's large inner piece. I cleaned mine up with a brass then a steel brush on a drill. Still looked quite rough so I used a battery powered dremel to sand it down evenly. I've read that the ring is heated and quickly put on. It contracts and that is all that holds it on. I took enough material off mine so luckily the ring slid almost completely on except maybe 1/8". I applied Harbor Freight Steel reinforced epoxy where the ring goes and put the new ring in place. then tapped it lightly to get it into position. After letting it sit for 24 hours it was completely bonded in place.
Re-assembly is the reverse of disassembly. After getting the inner joint spline lined up in the differential I put a pipe wrench on the metal part (not the plastic guard) and tapped it in place with a hammer.
After it was all back together I cleared the stored error codes (note that the ABS light and my DSC error message persisted until I test drive it. After just 40 to 50 yards or so the ABS light went off and the DSC error massage cleared themselves.
Your AC problem is likely the Compressor Relay in the underhood fuse box. Corroded connections (dielectric grease helps) or the relay may be bad.
Another stereo head unit can be had on eBay for about $45.
The lights that come on when you apply the brakes normally come on when the park lights are on. I believe there is a short at the rear bulbs (could even be a bad bulb, remove them one at a time). This lets the brake lamp power backfeed into the park light circuit. If someone applies the brakes for you I bet the front park lights come on. That $13 part takes a lot to get to and replace.
You X-Type is NOT a Taurus underneath. The frame is from the Mondeo which was the Contour over here. It is a good frame. Watch for rust underneath if your area has salted roads in the winter. The rest is Jaguar except for the engine. Porsche designed it and raced them but never put the into general production. Ford approached them and bought the engineering. Ford really hates to spend time and money on R&D so this saved them years of development. The intake and fuel injection is Jaguar.
I hope my long-winded reply has been helpful to you.
No speedometer/mileage change... This is a ABS problem which will trigger the Check Engine Light as well as the ABS light. Mine also said Dynamic Stability Control Fault and the cruise control was not working either. Using a V-Checker code scanner it revealed a problem with the driver's side rear ABS input. It turned out to be a badly deteriorated Reluctor Ring (some call it a Tone ring). I fixed it by:
Removing the drive'rs side rear wheel (after jacking it up and putting a jack stand under it). Removed the ABS sensor and let it hang. Unbolted the brake caliper and let it hang. Put a floor jack under the lower spring mount and raised it up a bit to take some tension off everything. Unbolted the long flat arm that extends from the wheel hub assembly toward the front of the car (two bolts). Unbolted the uppermost arm at the hub. Unbolted the rear bolt holding the hub assembly in place. Unbolted the short fat link arm (for lack of a better name) to the left of the shock, removing the bolt closest to the body, not at down close to where the lower shock mount is. Unbolted the CV shaft nut inside the rotor (must replace with a new one). removed the rotor and set it aside. Pulled the hub assembly toward myself and pivoted it downward somewhat, enough to get the outer splined CV joint shaft free from the bearing (I gently tapped the splined shaft to be sure it was free). Once the CV shaft was free I rested the outer end on the hub assembly. Then using a long flat blade screw driver I pried the inner CV shaft out of the differential. Upon inspection, there was not much left of the Reluctor ring on the outer CV joint's large inner piece. I cleaned mine up with a brass then a steel brush on a drill. Still looked quite rough so I used a battery powered dremel to sand it down evenly. I've read that the ring is heated and quickly put on. It contracts and that is all that holds it on. I took enough material off mine so luckily the ring slid almost completely on except maybe 1/8". I applied Harbor Freight Steel reinforced epoxy where the ring goes and put the new ring in place. then tapped it lightly to get it into position. After letting it sit for 24 hours it was completely bonded in place.
Re-assembly is the reverse of disassembly. After getting the inner joint spline lined up in the differential I put a pipe wrench on the metal part (not the plastic guard) and tapped it in place with a hammer.
After it was all back together I cleared the stored error codes (note that the ABS light and my DSC error message persisted until I test drive it. After just 40 to 50 yards or so the ABS light went off and the DSC error massage cleared themselves.
Your AC problem is likely the Compressor Relay in the underhood fuse box. Corroded connections (dielectric grease helps) or the relay may be bad.
Another stereo head unit can be had on eBay for about $45.
The lights that come on when you apply the brakes normally come on when the park lights are on. I believe there is a short at the rear bulbs (could even be a bad bulb, remove them one at a time). This lets the brake lamp power backfeed into the park light circuit. If someone applies the brakes for you I bet the front park lights come on. That $13 part takes a lot to get to and replace.
You X-Type is NOT a Taurus underneath. The frame is from the Mondeo which was the Contour over here. It is a good frame. Watch for rust underneath if your area has salted roads in the winter. The rest is Jaguar except for the engine. Porsche designed it and raced them but never put the into general production. Ford approached them and bought the engineering. Ford really hates to spend time and money on R&D so this saved them years of development. The intake and fuel injection is Jaguar.
I hope my long-winded reply has been helpful to you.
Last edited by TomTom; 05-03-2016 at 06:28 PM.
#87
08-29-2021, 08:17 PM
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X type wiring diagram
By some strange chance do you have to wiring diagram for the moonroof motor ? Thanks in advance.
Ted, I would start with pulling both rear wheels off and then removing the speed sensors. From there, you can look down the hole with a flash light to see if you spot the rings. It is pretty obvious if the rings are there or not. Since you are there, you can also do a visual of the wiring. But, I am betting that if it is a wiring issue, you are going to find the problem near the ABS module since you have 3 wheels that are not working properly.
The CAN Bus issue can be something as simple as a plug is not in fully. Which if it is on the ABS module, could also explain the wheel speed sensors. If you open up the hood of your car, look down behind the passenger headlight. You should see a control module there. That is the ABS module. Check out that connector and see if you have water in the connector and that the pins of the connector look good. Having bad speed input will affect your ABS, your speedo, and your traction control (the traction control doesn't know what wheel to trust and therefore it gives you the warning light to say that it has essentially given up try to control the slippage).
If you need a wiring diagram for your car, let me know. I will send you an electronic diagram. Send me a PM with your e-mail addy.
The CAN Bus issue can be something as simple as a plug is not in fully. Which if it is on the ABS module, could also explain the wheel speed sensors. If you open up the hood of your car, look down behind the passenger headlight. You should see a control module there. That is the ABS module. Check out that connector and see if you have water in the connector and that the pins of the connector look good. Having bad speed input will affect your ABS, your speedo, and your traction control (the traction control doesn't know what wheel to trust and therefore it gives you the warning light to say that it has essentially given up try to control the slippage).
If you need a wiring diagram for your car, let me know. I will send you an electronic diagram. Send me a PM with your e-mail addy.
#89
08-30-2021, 10:52 AM
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