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jjjyuma
Also my mileage jumped from 24.5 highway to 30.5 freeway trips of 140 miles or less
Thanks. I tinker a lot with small engines (lawnmowers, carbs, etc.). I'm sure I can handle this thing, but where would I find the lower intake O-rings. Is that the thing I found identified as (2) IMT O-rings. Is there a technical name?
Thanks again.
By the Way. that's about what I get, 25. Really be nice to jump to 30 mpg.
I posted this further down, not realizing that I had unintentionally been on the wrong comment.
Thanks. Sounds easy enough. Only concern is the 2.5 o-ring specs versus the 3.0L. Are you aware that there isn't a difference? I'll begin checking to find any published specs.
Yuma, what you are after is the lower plenum o-rings. The local auto parts store will have them if you ask for the parts for a Lincoln LS 3.0L. It is the same part, just not with the Jaguar name on it. A set is like $25. You can also ask for the upper plenum (possibly called intake manifold) o-rings. Again, you will need to ask for the parts from the Lincoln.
That should take care of you. Getting to them is not that difficult, just have to be ready to remove a fair amount of stuff to get down far enough. BUt, things come off in fairly large chunks. You can leave the fuel injectors installed on the lower plate.
Do you have pictures of the lower plenum o-rings? How many are there?
My 2002 is still having trouble when cold and the brakes feel like the ABS is on when the road conditions are fine. remember, I replaced the brake booster valve. Thanks
The last two photos in this thread show the upper and lower o-rings. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...nge-faq-48128/
There are 6 upper and 6 lower o-rings.
The lowers are exposed by unbolting and lifting the lower intake manifold. Not a bad job if you're already changing the spark plugs.
My problem exactly. I was trying to hold off for vacation, but got too bad, had to take it in. Driving >100 m round trip to work. Related to lower plenum gasket, I believe. I'll post exact problem when I get it back Monday. Mileage ~ 180k.
So i figured id change my oil myself while taking off the oil filter on my 96 vandenplas i broke it right at the check so no tape was saving i actually used a piece of fuel line to connect them back together but pedal stayed real hard , so i have new part coming monday my question is do i have to bleed the booster now ??
Amanduh: While I'm not familiar with a 96 vandenplas (this is an X-Type forum) the power brakes on 99% of cars are similar. Your question is good, and the answer is 'no', bleeding the brakes is not necessary after repairing the brake vacuum line. Bleeding is done to purge air from the brake fluid. Fortunately, this brake vacuum leak and repair does not allow any air into the brake fluid, so there's no need to purge / bleed air out of the brake fluid after the repair.
AMANDUH; Are the brakes still hard? If so, there is still a leak from the booster to the intake, the check valve could have deteriorated or cracked or your patch is leaking. Try this: car at idle, pump the brake peddle then push it to the floor(or as far as it will go) radio, heater off and listen to the sound of the engine as you press and see if the RPM changes. If it drops or rises a lot you have a vacuum leak REGUARLESS of the condition of the fluid or pads, ect. The only other thing mechanical could be the booster itself, BUT if you weren't having issues BEFORE the line broke it shouldn't be the booster
Thanks guys for quick response yes pedals still hard it broke right at the check valve so i put a piece of plastic fuel line in each end vacuums working but doesn't seem to be working ,i found a line on ebay comes next monday hope it works again my legs not that strong i'm going to try pumping the breaks with 30 seconds between pumps today i read some stuff about it i'll send pic of my home made fix later you pros should get a kick out it thanks again this forum helped me with lots of issues before
On the 1995-97 the line is a crazy shape so when i broke mine this fix dint work i dk why looks like it should pedals still hard anyway ordered new part , do i just pry the plug out of the brake booster to install ? don't lol at my fix, i know how to remove sleeve in engine to vacuum
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Last edited by AMANDUH; 10-29-2015 at 10:59 AM.
Reason: forgot a part
This Forum has really helped me. I bought a beautiful 2005 Jaguar X type 3.0. Test Drove it and got the car fax. Two Owners 1 for 9 years and 1 for about 5 months. The guy gave me a great price. I pull out and by the time I get home from DMV the Check Engine Light is on. He of course acted like he didn't know what was happening. I borrowed my brother's code reader and P0171 P0174 and P1000 come up. P1000 let me know he reset it. I googled and this forum came up. It took a few tries but I ended up changing the MAF and that didn't work but the Break Booster/Check Valve and the IMT O Rings are what were wrong. The links and knowledge and here helped a novice fix this car. Also, I found out he had no Cabin Air Filter in when I went to change it, . The first owner took his car to the Dealership for everything and left his paperwork in the glove box. This second guy was a complete douche. Thanks Again.
11-08-2013, 02:56 PM
2.5L v 3.0L
