Greetings,
Today I had an issue with my brake completely locked up while going 35 MPH. Some required info is about two weeks ago I started experiencing some skidding with my old brakes, they were skidding a little.
So this past week I replaced the front rotors (rear are fine) and all 4 sets of pads. I greased up the clips like I was supposed to, and pushed the pistons back with the proper tool, pushing for fronts and turning for rears.

• After changing my brakes my car was dead-ish (because I my battery light is on, think it's going bad) however it started and when backing out of the garage the car revved up and said "GEARBOX ERROR" on the dash. However jumped it and the error went away and had no issue driving.
• THEN the real problems happened, I started driving a bit and it felt like my brakes were skidding every 5th or so brake press again, basically hearing the brake pads on the rotor. After a day or so the ABS light would flicker on and off every 5 or so minutes, with the skidding issue happening randomly still whether the light was on or off.
• TODAY I was driving to school for finals, car was driving fine no brake issues, and while going about 35 MPH my front passenger brake seized up stopping me almost instantly and smoking like crazy as my car came to a stop. I'm lucky I didn't get rear ended or in an accident. I couldn't get it to unseize while stepping on pedal a bunch of times and eventually to get out the road HAD to give it 3-4k RPMs to get it to budge and get over into a parking lot.

Prior to this happening I pulled the codes, and I'm getting a circuitry issue on every single wheel.

Codes are C1145, C1155, C1165, C1175.

• A note, I didn't get a chance to bleed the brakes as I have had the most busy hellish week, I feel like it should be said though as I'm trying to give all information to accurately diagnose this issue as I will be repairing it myself.

Thank you for any at all help, money is SO tight recently so I'm hoping this isn't something huge but as my daily driver I need my car and will end up fixing it regardless.

 

bump, still no answers.

 

Those are all wheel sensor codes. My first inclination is not bleeding the lines has caused a problem OR your ABS module ate it. So very rare to get all 4 speed sensor faults.

Different car but, same problem =
https://www.justanswer.com/chevy/lip...rs-go-bad.html

Another thought would be check the ABS fuse! Because you have a 2004, this # would be for a (2004.25 manufactured after April 2004) = F13. F3 on a pre April 2004.

 

There were a few threads about brake booster problems after install of new brake pads, it seems this was common. Well, not uncommon. See this one:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...failure-84009/

Look at post #18 on that thread from user Dennis Black. Remove the 2 master cylinder mounting nuts, gently twist and turn master cylinder out of the way slightly (you don't even have to remove fluid or disconnect hoses in theory), press on brake pedal, you will see an adjustment nut on the end of the push rod. The nut takes a 7mm socket, turn that nut a little bit to make the rod shorter and hopefully your troubles will be solved. It worked for me, I had both rear wheels dragging after a brake job. Luckily caught mine quickly, never got to the point of locking up but they got real hot real quick. Bleed those brakes especially now they have locked up, that probably boiled some brake fluid and got extra gas in the brake lines. See if that helps with the ABS codes.

I once had a bad wheel sensor and before the replacement part came in the sensor on the other side went out too. When this happened the speedometer stopped working which I was told is intentional, the speedometer should not work with 2 bad wheel speed sensors. If you have 4 bad wheel sensors and a working speedo something is strange.

 

Thank you for this answer, this seems to be the issue and definitely will do a bleed and fluid change. Glad to hear someone else went through something similar. I'll let you know what I find out

 

Yes however this scraping started a week prior to me changing the brakes which is why I changed them thought they were just so gone. Definitely checking fuse, have been out of town will update later thank you Dell.

 

UPDATE:
Greetings again, I bled the brakes starting from back right rear to front driver, didn't get much air out and honestly fluid looked surprisingly decent.

Then read deeply on the Brake Booster stem issue and attempted that. I removed the left and right bolt on the Master Cylinder and pulled it back and out of the way. Then I propped the Brake Pedal to the push position fully and grabbed the threaded stem with some needle nose pliers and then used a 7mm socket on the end to turn it CLOCKWISE 4-5 times. Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue as I drove the car and again I felt the random every 5th or so pedal push SKID along the brakes and basically feels like I'm manually pushing the calipers in and can even feel the push back from the brakes.

Now here are some questions I have if that still should work as the solution that I didn't see much clarity on.
1. If I am turning the Brake Booster stem clockwise am I shortening the stem or lengthening the stem in the process?

2. Is 3-4 turns 3 or 4 FULL 360 turns of the stem or is it 3-4 quarter turns, and if I did over do it what would that cause?

3. Why is it that my brakes work PERFECT for 4 or so brake presses until I get a little faster or what seems to have no pattern at all and then just for 1-2 presses then to get hard and feel like I'm literally pressing the brakes down with my foot?

I'm kind of lost here because I have read a lot about these brakes and I can't seem to quite put my finger on it, all the most I could have just not turned the brake booster stem enough or the correct way! Would love some clarity. Thank you.

 

1) Sorry I am no help there, it has been too long so I don't recall which way I turned that nut/stem.

2) I spent about 15 minutes with some calipers (the measuring kind, not brake calipers) and determined I needed less than 0.5 mm to get the stem out of interference. I only needed half a rotation, 180 degrees.

3a) Definitely sounds like something is still dragging. It gets hot and expands and locks up. Maybe. Chock the wheels, put it in neutral, jack up rear wheels and spin by hand. Do you hear rubbing?

3b) You mentioned a flickering ABS light... if you have wheel speed sensor problems AND you have traction control the computer may be applying the brakes for you to prevent you from going into a skid. It is doing this randomly because it doesn't quite know what to do with bad data from the wheel speed sensors. I don't have traction control but I think there is a switch to turn it off near the shifter. If you have traction control does it behave differently with it off?

I had both rear wheel speed sensor throw errors. In both cases it was the reluctor ring that was broken due to the steel hub underneath it swelling from rust. If you pull the speed sensors out and look down into the hole where it was mounted you can see the ring. Look for broken or bent teeth or rust causing swelling. There are 3 ways to deal with that, if you have to.

1) Disassemble rear suspension enough to get at the reluctor ring. Cut off the old one with a dremel, small grinder, hacksaw, etc. Wire brush and sand and clean the surface, then epoxy on a new reluctor.
2) Replace the "half shaft." New one has a new reluctor ring.
3) Replace the whole shaft assembly.

Some recent prices for these parts posted here.

 

FWIW I had brakes sticking on my X-Type. I didn't have any ABS lights or any codes.

It was eventually solved by replacing the rubber hoses at each caliper. Presumably the hoses were breaking down inside and not allowing the calipers to release properly.

HTH, Dave

 

On different makes of cars, i've heard of people having brake problems when pushing the fluid in the cylinder back up the lines through the Abs system and into the master. basically the fluid is meant to travel one way and causes havoc on seals and other parts forcing it backwards.

Next time, break the bleeders and force the fluid out that way.
Good luck