The lite goes out when car is started and then comes on after after about two seconds. It does not seem to be caused by the low fluid sensor or the ebrake. What else could be causing this?

 

I have moved your post to the X-type section for better response to your issue. I see this is your first post so please take a moment and make an introductory post on the New member Area for a proper welcome and tips to help make your forum experience more enjoyable.

New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

 

mmathis, odds are, you have a wheel speed sensor that has failed and the ABS system is not seeing the wheel speed (it sees it as locked up as the other wheels are all moving at the same rate). Most of the time, it is the rear wheel speed sensors that have issues as there is a metal ring inside the CV joint that is used to sense the speed and it is prone to rusting and falling to pieces (literally). No speed ring, no speed indication. The other common problem is if you have the front wheel bearings replaced, the bearings get installed backwards and the bearing has magnets imbedded into it and they are on 1 side of the bearing. You put it in backwards and the speed sensors can not see the magnets.

The best advice that I can tell you to do is to find a place that can read your "C" Codes (ie, chassis codes) and you will most likely get back one of the following codes: C1145, C1155, C1165, and/or C1175. Each of these codes is specific to a corner of the car. Let us know what code you get and we can give you much more specific information as to what is going on with your vehicle.

If you want read the codes yourself, there is a diagnostic mode you can put the instrument cluster and then you can go to a specific point. But, this will also require you to take a hexidecimal number that you are given and convert it over to something more useful. If you want to do this, let me know and I will post up how to do it. But, if math is not your strong point, may want to look at a different method.

 

Hello Thermo. Just to be clear, this is the red light that would come on with the e brake not the abs light. I live in nv so there isn't much of a rust issue here. I'll try to make an into-post, I'm really new to forums- sorry. I've been a mechanic for45+ years and this problem has me guessing- for now. Thanks for your help.

 

mmathis, if your e-brake light is remaining lit, it can really only be but 2 things. You are looking at either a sticking e-brake activation switch or a wiring issue. I would say to first start with accessing the switch on the e-brake lever and unplugging the 2 wire plug that is there. If the light goes out, then you are looking at a bad switch and it needs to be replaced (switch is available through the dealership unless you can find a suitable alternate as it is a simple switch, ie, no internal resistors or the like). If the light remains, odds are, you are looking at an instrument cluster issue. You can prove that it is the instrument cluster by getting to the back of the instrument cluster and removing the black wire at Pin 15. If the light remains, confirms it is the instrument cluster. If the light goes out, then the black wire has been damaged and is shorting out on the body. Probably easiest to run a new wire and call it good. If you want the electrical diagrams for the car, let me know. I have them electronically and will send them to you. PM me.

 

Hello Thermo. Now I am amused. I just checked it's operation so I could be absolutely factual about its malfunctioning and the light is working perfectly now. I did want to mention that I believe there is a low brake fluid switch and possibly some wiring for low brake pad alerts involved with the light also. My car does not have the brake pad "sensors". The light has pretty much been on for the last 8 months except for 2 months ago it was off for 2 days after I took it to a friends jag friendly shop and the light went out as the car was idling in the bay. I don't think it is the ebrake switch because all along I've been able to make the light turn on and off during the window when the light goes off for 2 seconds by working the ebrake. Thanks for your support and I'll keep you posted.

 

mmathis, what you are describing is still sounding like a switch that is failing. In short, what you are having happen is the switch can be either not coming back far enough or it may be coming out too far and it is engaging the switch the other way. You can try engaging the e-brake 1 or 2 clicks and see if the light will go out. That would also help confirm that the switch is the issue.

You can also try squirting the switch with some WD-40 and see if that helps. I have seen where these will stick due to dirt and by squirting it with WD-40, it will wash this stuff away. Besides, it is a quick check to do.

 

I just started having this light combo come on. Low Brake fluid and PARKING BRAKE. Thermo - where is the parking brake switch specifically? As for the low brake fluid - is there a float in the reservoir that can be stuck?

Just to add.. It as gone off a several times in the past few days and stayed off but mostly one.

 

drdnaga, the parking brake switch is located in the center console. If you remove the cover over the handle, you will see the switch on the side of the lever.

 

Thermo,


I am getting this intermittently but it is annoying. As I stated in my earlier post I am getting BOTH warning. (and then it is off, they are both off)

Do I have something extra special wrong with my CAT as I am getting both lights??

Also important to mention. I thought my brakes were going bad and had them checked by my mechanic.. they said the pads and rotors look great but there is a little grinding and a bunch of brake squeal. Could this be associated with the lights coming on?

Thanks

David

 

drdnaga, based on the lights that you are seeing, your problem sounds electrical in nature, not mechanical. I would venture to guess that you have something inside the instrument cluster that is going awry, causing the lights. So, the car should be safe to drive. If you want to confirm what I am saying, then you are going to need to access the center console when the parking brake light is on and disconnect the single wire on the parking brake switch. If the light goes out, then it confirms the switch. But, if it stays on, then it confirms you have an electrical issue in the dash.

This could be something as silly as the instrument cluster was removed at one time and when it was put back in, the back of the instrument cluster is now rubbing up against something and is shorting out a few solder joints.