OK I think I'll skip the fuel injectors for now. Throttle body and MAF sensor sound good. I did recently decide to do just that with my gas, I read an article in Motor Trend or PopSci about how some gas and car companies agreed to this Top Tier standard and am gonna fill up with Aloha for a few tanks in both my cars instead of Costco for a bit. Gonna add a few bucks to my monthly gas total, but hopefully will be worth it. Air filter is gone, my trim separated from the windshield when I was replacing the filter a while ago and it started leaking tons of rainwater into the intake and into the passenger side of the cabin. I just made a cover to keep the rainwater from getting in and I don't use the air.

 

Hey all, been really busy and going on a trip tomorrow, but got some time to replace the imt valve o rings last night. I didn't bother with the manifold gaskets at this time since this car is on its way out and I just want to do what I must to keep the car running. I got both valves out, the bottom one by shaving a little bit of plastic off the corner. Inside, I noticed that there was quite a bit of what looks like dirty engine oil inside the back of the manifold so I wiped it all up and put the valves back in. Any idea how that oil would have gotten there or what else that could have affected? Is it possible that oil got into the vacuum line to the brake booster and broke the check valve or something? I was thinking maybe my bad hesitation and almost dying when I floored the gas could be from the sudden increased airflow picking up a little oil and throwing it into the engine or something.

I'm going to check in the manifold again after I put a few miles on the car to see if the oil comes back, but just wanted to update with that interesting piece of info. I will also upload some pictures once I figure out how to do that from mobile.

 

ekuest, if you have a significant amount of oil in your intake, odds are, your PCV valve is toast and you need a new valve (note if you have the gray or purple body PCV valve, they may ask you about that, there are slight variations between the two). NOt a big issue. MIght be good to simply pull the intake off to be able to flush a lot of the oil out. But, for the most part, it is not hurting anything.

Could the oil have possibly affected the check valve for the brake booster. Sure. ANything is possible. BUt normally, the check valve fails from a crack in the body long before things build up in the check valve to prevent air flow.

 

im back! hey everyone im back at trying to fix this damn car. i did replace the hose with the check valve to the booster and that didnt make any difference whatsoever. i took it to a professional and he wanted $100 to do a diagnostic, but he said just by looking he was sure it was the rotors. so i replaced the front rotors and drove a little and it stops a tiny bit better (the old rotors were a little worn) but the brake pedal feels exactly the same. that is to say, terrible. it has very little travel and actually pushes back at me. one thing i read to check if it's the booster is to turn the car off and then immediately unplug the vacuum hose from the booster and see if it hisses, indicating that it held the vacuum. it did this with flying colors. big hiss when unplugged. there is a bit of a hiss when i press the brake pedal, but im not sure if that is how it is supposed to be or not. it seems it would need a steady flow ow air into the booster in order to create the vacuum necessary to push the hydraulic ram. it is not very loud, and i actually have to put my head down by the pedals to hear it. i have a video of it on my phone which i will try to upload soon.

 

video:

 

If your in need of a booster let me know. I have one on the shelf ready to ship. It came off a car. An 03 with 83k on It. Pm me and send me your information and I can get a shipping price.

Thanks,
The Dr