Hi everyone and thanks in anticipation for your help and advise

Just bought an X-Type 2.0 Diesel. I have a few problems but the one causing me the most concern is the brakes. They are fine for around 5 mins then they feel like they are permanently on, not fully as the car still drives but it does not free wheel. Is this a common problem or can anyone offer any suggestions.

Thanks

 

For starters, which wheels are dragging? Front? rears? all? Jack up each corner and give the wheel a spin.

 

Reef, do you find that the e-brake is really easy to pull up? Does the e-brake seem to top out without completely engaging? It is possible that you are having issues with the e-brake mechanism on one of the rear calipers and it is not releasing like it should, leading to the dragging problem. To figure out which wheel is dragging, you can drive the car for a few minutes (till you start to feel the dragging occurring) and then stop the car. You will need to place you hand near the center of each wheel. The wheel that feels hotter than the rest is your problem wheel. Keep in mind that the front wheels will be slightly hotter than the rears. once you figure out which wheel is acting up, then we can help you a lot more.

 

just a suggestion - my ebrake seemed 'rough' at time and made a groan, i used a flathead to pull out the brake cable from the rear caliper. (metal wire with plastic covering that goes threw a hole and onto a clip-type device). luubed it up with caliper greese and used pliers to put it back on the caliper. my problems went away.

i doubt this will work in your situation, but it is worth a try to save money.

 

Thanks for the replies so far.

It would appear to be all the wheels that are dragging. I took it to my local garage and he thinks it may be something to do with ABS Control but not 100% sure. I had checked the brake fluid two days ago and it was about half way between min and max. This morning on my way to work I got a warning flashed up twice that the brake fluid was low and then it went off, so I need to recheck that but I have not noticed any leaks. The car has had 4 new callipers which my local mechanic assumes was an attempt to fix this problem by the car dealer. I am currently trying to get him to sort the problem but he's playing hard ball at the minute.

The E-Brake, which I presume is the hand brake, appears to be engaging and releasing ok.

Any further responses will be greatly appreciated.

 

Google is your friend. They are available online at several retailers for much less, both aftermarket remans and Bosch OEM style new. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sh...ar/x_type.html

 

chri x -

are bosh the OEM brakes for the x - types?

 

Jaguarx, try to find a car parts place that specializes in european car parts. The last time I bought a caliper for the rear, I paid $110 and like $35 for a core. A far cry from what you are getting quoted. If you want a really good laugh and get really pissed at your local dealership, there is a Jaguar dealership in Cleveland OH that is selling the caliper for $105 (list price is $125). Go check out http://www.jaguarparts.com. Even with S&H, you should be well under $150.

You can also send and e-mail to ken@britishparts.com and he should be able to get you a part for pretty cheap too (definitely a lot less than what you are being quoted).

If you need any more help, let me know.

 

Topped up the break fluid but this has not resolved the issue. Greatfull if anyone has any suggestions.

 

yes Bosch are OEM.

This is a strange problem. I am guessing you are not getting an ABS light? Might be worth a trip to the dealer to see if there are any ABS codes stored in the system.

Perhaps when the caliper replacements were completed they did not do a great job of bleeding the brakes?

Is the brake pedal fully returning to the normal position after use?

It may be a master cylinder issue if you notice the brake fluid level is going down again.

 

The ABS acts to REDUCE fluid pressure to the caliper of the wheel(s) that abruptly lock up during a stop. I can't imagine how ABS could increase fluid pressure to all four calipers.

If this were my car, I would make damn sure I knew which wheels were binding. Is it the rears only? Parking brake cables are notorious for hanging up. All wheels dragging suggests an issue with the master cylinder. When binding is noticeable, jack up a corner and try to spin the wheel to confirm the problem. Cracking the brake bleeder open for that caliper should relieve the binding. If not, you have caliper issues.

Another troubleshooting tactic is to eliminate the ABS. For example, you could temporarily disable the ABS by pulling the fuse to the ABS controller (F96?). Doing this may very likely set a fault code (e.g., ABS self-test failure); however, replacing the fuse should allow the fault code to clear after some time period. The point is if binding still occurs with ABS disabled, then you at least know ABS is not the root cause of the binding.

 

Thanks again for the replies.

.The ABS light does not come on at any point.
.The brake pedal does return to the normal position
.Having jacked up all four corners it is all brakes that are binding so I am
presuming it is not a caliper issue
.Removed the ABS fuse after the brakes started binding and they were still
binding so I presume that ABS is not the issue after all.

Think it's time to take it back and get the dealer to fix it. I will post the results when I know what was wrong. Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

I had a problem with my rear calipers, the handbrake mechanism was sticking, there is a sprung mechanism that pulls the handbrake cable back. i had to really work them to free them up, it seemed to stick again after a while, i think i am going to replace both my rear calipers unless that mechanism is servicable.

 

Hi did you ever get to the bottom of this problem?

 

No I never got it fixed as the car dealer that sold it point blank refused to do anything with it. Ended up taking him to court and got all my money back, lots of interest, cost of insurance and tax, and funnily enough, the car as well. As it was no good to me, I subsequently sold it to another garage after making them fully aware of the problem.

 

Thermo,


I just did the brakes (rotors and pads) on my X-Type 2 weekends ago. I drove the car for about 4 days and did not use the e-brake. On the 4th day I parked on a hill and engaged the e-brake, everything seemed fine, I came home and noticed that my center cap from my passenger side rear rim actually melted because the brake was stuck on. Any suggestions on what may be causing this? It is an 03 X-Type.


Thanks in advance for the help!


Alex

 

Alex, from the sounds of things, your e-brake lever has stuck in the mid position and this is causing the rear caliper to remain engaged. What you can do is remove the wheel in question and then using your hand/screw driver, pull the e-brake lever back towards the rear of the car. If you get movement, then the e-brake lever was stuck. You can also cycle the e-brake a few times with the wheel removed to make sure that the lever is going all the way back. If it isn't, then the easier fix is to simply get a new caliper and install it. If you have time and are willing to tear apart the caliper (requires a special 14mm pentasocket-yes, a 5 pointed socket), you can save some money and rebuild it. You will want to use a greenie pad to remove all the rust on the shaft connecting the lever to the caliper internals. Then a good coating of high temp brake grease would be a good idea too.

If you need more info, I can get you more.