Broken hose - what is it?
#1
Broken hose - what is it?
I’ve searched the entire forum and can’t find anything. I don’t have a picture so I’ll do my best to describe it.
I have a broken hose that runs from the back of the manifold to the fuel rail. It is small and plastic. About the size of a straw. It has a boot on it, like one on an old style plug wire that plugs into a distributor, that plugs into the back of the manifold kind of right below the black hose that runs to the brake booster. This straw size hose is a burnt orange color. At least mine is. It’s broken. Is it necessary? Any ideas what it is?
I have a broken hose that runs from the back of the manifold to the fuel rail. It is small and plastic. About the size of a straw. It has a boot on it, like one on an old style plug wire that plugs into a distributor, that plugs into the back of the manifold kind of right below the black hose that runs to the brake booster. This straw size hose is a burnt orange color. At least mine is. It’s broken. Is it necessary? Any ideas what it is?
#4
Last edited by Dell Gailey; 03-03-2021 at 01:17 PM.
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ugotmale (03-04-2021)
#7
If your is broken somewhere in the middle (they get brittle with heat and age), then you might look to bridge the break with a short section of suitable reinforced rubber hose and some hose clips.
If you have a broken end fitting then you might be in for a replacement.
There is a couple of wreckers in Canterbury regularly advertising Jaguar parts on Trademe, if you are looking for an alternative replacement option.
If you have a broken end fitting then you might be in for a replacement.
There is a couple of wreckers in Canterbury regularly advertising Jaguar parts on Trademe, if you are looking for an alternative replacement option.
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#8
@allyshake I was able to source a replacement from a salvage yard. However, my original was broken about 2 inches before the fuel rail sensor and I never got a code and it never ran poorly. So I’m not sure it really needs to be connected if it’s broken farther from the manifold.
Regardless, to answer your question, before I sourced an intact replacement I had gone to the hardware store and bought similar tubing, slightly larger in diameter, so I could slide the broken tube ends into the slightly larger tubing. I taped the areas on either connector end with black tape where the old tube slid into the new tube to make it mostly air tight. Then to overdo it, I just wrapped the whole length of tubing with black tape. Put the sheath back on. Reconnected and it worked fine. Couldn’t tell you if there was a change or improvement in gas mileage or performance. Seemed the same. I’ve since replaced it with the genuine OEM one I mentioned above from the wrecking yard….only because I wanted the original hose connection set up, not because the hardware store solution became problematic. I’d go the hardware store route again if I had to or eventually have to. As mentioned the OEM hose is crap and gets hot and brittle and eventually breaks.
Regardless, to answer your question, before I sourced an intact replacement I had gone to the hardware store and bought similar tubing, slightly larger in diameter, so I could slide the broken tube ends into the slightly larger tubing. I taped the areas on either connector end with black tape where the old tube slid into the new tube to make it mostly air tight. Then to overdo it, I just wrapped the whole length of tubing with black tape. Put the sheath back on. Reconnected and it worked fine. Couldn’t tell you if there was a change or improvement in gas mileage or performance. Seemed the same. I’ve since replaced it with the genuine OEM one I mentioned above from the wrecking yard….only because I wanted the original hose connection set up, not because the hardware store solution became problematic. I’d go the hardware store route again if I had to or eventually have to. As mentioned the OEM hose is crap and gets hot and brittle and eventually breaks.
Last edited by ugotmale; 03-13-2024 at 12:46 AM.
#10
Doing the same and have got some 4mm ID tube and taped up the ends as an interim measure. Still got a misfire cyl 3 so its not a vacuum leak. Ordered a set of NGK plugs and upper inlet manifold seals which includes the IMT's. Plus the brake vacuum tube as well as it looks tired. As suggested by Thermo on another thread Ill swap Coil 3 for coil 2 when I do the plugs and seals so if that is a dud and its not a plug I can replace the coil without having to take the manifold off again.
#11
@allyshake
Each cat is different and temperamental. OEM gap is .052, so make sure to check the NGK gaps. They’re supposed to be pre-gapped but never are. Even if one is off the X won’t like it. I’ve only put NGK in mine and I gap the plugs at .051 since I learned mine is satisfied with a tolerance between .050 and .052, but nothing greater than .052 or less than .050. I also had issues with my replacement coils twice (had bought Denso coils both times) and once I splurged on the NGK coils I’ve had zero misfire issues at the coils.
Doing the same and have got some 4mm ID tube and taped up the ends as an interim measure. Still got a misfire cyl 3 so its not a vacuum leak. Ordered a set of NGK plugs and upper inlet manifold seals which includes the IMT's. Plus the brake vacuum tube as well as it looks tired. As suggested by Thermo on another thread Ill swap Coil 3 for coil 2 when I do the plugs and seals so if that is a dud and its not a plug I can replace the coil without having to take the manifold off again.
#12
That hose is used to maintain the fuel rail at a constant pressure relative to intake manifold pressure. Most day-to-day driving you probably wouldn't notice but at high speed and at hard acceleration your fuel/air mix will be rich so worse mileage and more pollutants and some unburned fuel into the catalytic converters which isn't good if it happens a lot.
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