So where else can I get one? Or what car uses the same one than?

 

Mine came from Ebay - seller's name is "Autolampsplus". $26 incl. shipping. Local Carquest store offered to get me one, but they wanted $36.

 

I got mine local. Theres plenty on online shops to choose from.
I highly recommend the BOSCH C3611 Activated Charcoal Filter. $20.
The charcoal really cuts the odors entering into the cabin.
I was behind a diesel pickup the other day and didn't smell a thing.

 

Sweet, finally a part number I could work with-thanks!

 

Hello everyone! You guys did me a huge favor with the info here on accessing the cabin filter on the X-Type. In return I'm giving something back. I too have on occasion had the issue of limp-home mode along with the chime from the General Electronics Module (GEM) the yellow light by the digital display. Mine always (3 times anyway) DSC System Failure, Gearbox Fault, and Cruise not available (I think). You have no throttle control, it only idles at that point. Each time I shifted into neutral (automatic) and signaled I was exiting the interstate into the emergency lane. While coasting down in speed (not applying the brakes) I can feel one or more of the anti-lock brakes applying themselves periodically like it wants to slow down, perhaps a safety precaution, I'm not sure. This has happened near the same spot each time (on my way to work) within 300 yards of one another. Each time it was cold weather and I had really used my windshield washers extensively to rid heavy frost. I use the kind that defrosts ice. I proceed about 1 & 1/2 miles to the interstate on ramp which is long and rather steep. I enter the interstate at 60 mph, drive a short way and it "erupts". After reading your posts I checked the valence fitting at the base of the windshield and sure enough a big gap on the passenger side but not the driver's side. Here is how you proceed: Open the hood, using your fingernails lift the little square straight up in the center of each round black retainer clip along the edge of the valence closest to the engine then pull the edge of the clip up and out and put them in a safe place. They are all identical so you can't mix them up. Next you want to lift the hinged black plastic cover that hides the wiper arm retainer nut, it just flips up. There is no need to remove these. Unscrew the nuts putting them in a safe place along with the single washer under each nut. Now put the hood down just enough so the safety latch catches. Turn the key on and let the wipers move into a straight up and down position, quickly turning the key off so they stay there. At this point I took a photo with my iPad so I would know what position the should be returned to in the end. Stand the wiper arms out and away from the windshield. Grasp each one and wiggle them side to side using the arm as leverage, don't go crazy here! Pull outward as you wiggle them. Set them in a safe place noting the drivers arm is different from the passengers side arm. Open the hood. CAUTION! Don't ever touch the hood lifting gas shocks SILVER ROD with your hand or a tool. Release the washer fluid hose on the extreme left end of the valence, pulling up on it. Now you can unseat the valence but pulling it out noting there is a groove that runs along underneath that a lip on the valence MUST go back into on reassembly so no twisting! Use a vacuum to remove leaves, dirt, etc. Like one poster I happened to have a black flexible plastic sheet of something (I don't know what it really is) and cut it to about the length of my hand. I placed this over the filter. It had been rolled up for some time and it's curvature was helpful I think. That should prevent water intrusion into the filter as this plastic is now covering the filter like a curved downward roof of sorts. I replaced the valence which holds the new plastic "roof" in place. I made sure it wasn't so long it protruded over into the area on the driver's side mechanicals for the wipers, didn't want to do it over again if I heard crunch crunch crunch when the wipers were operating. It wasn't so tough getting the lip under the valance back into it's groove. I peeped between the windshield and the valance on the driver's side (with the right side of my head practically laying against the windshield) to be certain it was in the right position. Then I began to push down on the valence starting on the drivers side and felt it go into place, moving along about 4 or 5 inches at a time until the whole thing was back in. I popped the black round valance retainers back in and pushed the center posts back down to secure them. Reattach the wiper arms, re-install the washer and nut on each "drive post". Pat yourself on the back for a job well-done. I then went for a ceremonial car wash. Good luck! I bear no responsibility whatsoever for this procedure or any other you choose to undertake by working on a vehicle or having someone do it for you. This is your Jag. Take your time and be careful. NEVER raise the hood while the wiper arms are pivoted out and away from the windshield on ANY car or truck, you may scratch and damage the paint on back edge of the hood!

 

I've attached four photos for your reference. The last one is just an aside, a view inside the oil cap to show you how clean my 2.5 is with over 90,000 on it. That is the result of having used synthetic oil. It doesn't "cook" and break down into coke (think black junk) that clogs oil passages and eventually kills engines. I know, I know, people complain about oil that's $5 a quart. Don't think of it as casting a few dollars more each oil change, think of it this way. If using synthetic oil were to only extend the life of your engine by two extra years it's still worth it to me. If it makes it last even longer than that well it's darn well worth it.

Happy trails!

 

I just changed my cabin filter in my 2002 X. There is no need to remove the wipers. Just remove the 4 plastic fasteners and the cowling will lift up giving you plenty of room to remove and replace the filter.

 

Top Deal Carbon Cabin Air Filter 01-11 Jaguar X-Type 00-07 Ford Contour Mondeo | eBay I found this one on Ebay for only $12.77 free shipping.

 

Here in Texas, I can get a cabin air filter from Auto Zone. They have STP and Bosch filters that range from $25-$35.

 

Hi Jac, I was wondering if you might take some pics of these 4 plastic fasteners. My parents have a 2002 and my dad changed his air filter and he said there was quite a bit to it. Some sort of special tool to pop this cowl away from the windshield (without breaking it) and about 2-hours of his time. I have a 2003 and I'm hoping I can do what you've described here.

I also have this water leaking problem. Someone linked me to this string. It would appear that the air filter may be the culprit. I need to change mine anyway, so I thought I'd tackle this and see if there is some type of seal in there that might stop my water problem.

Thanks in advance. Sure would love to see these fasteners if you could take a quick picture.

-Russell
Tampa, FL
2003 X-type

 

Russell, I hope this helps you. After removing these 4 clips you should be able to lift it up far enough to get to the cabin filter.

 

Thank you, Jac. I think I'm going to tackle this job. -R

 

You also said you had a water leak inside. Make sure the new filter is in correctly. That might be the problem.

 

>Make sure the new filter is in correctly.

And that there's no crud blocking the drain (ask me how I know about that one..., oh ya, ok then, my dealer had to remove the entire dash to extract the heater core to remove a blockage of leaves and crap that has somehow gotten so bad that they couldn't blow the drain line out, $600 later no more A/C condensate dripping on my passenger's feet).
================================================
Jaguar: Grace, Pace, and Space - Sir William Lyons

 

Okay, so I have what I believe is the trouble...I removed the lower wind screen cowl, wiper arms and pulled the cabin filter. It was pretty cruddy with some leaves and such.

I decided to take off the housing that holds the air filter (there were only two nuts) and it popped right off. Between that and the fire wall, around the intake area (I can see the fan in there) there's a gasket. I called Jaguar and they told me it's $12.35. But...he said there is a water "seal" for $16.96 and the parts guy thinks that may be the cause of the water leaking in to the car.

I read a little about this and I believe that Jaguar addressed this by 2003 (my year X) and the piece that holds the air filter has a re-design. It has been molded to divert the water downward to the reservoir that runs along the width of the car under both wipers.

So what I'm trying to express here is that there is nothing rubber at all under there. Only the filter, the housing that holds it and the gasket to seal this housing to the fire wall.

It's not that big of a deal for $17 bucks, but I don't think I need to buy this as I see no where to put it. Can anyone comment or advise on this?

I don't feel like the parts guy is trying to sell me something I don't need. I've dealt with him before and he's always been very good.

I plan to drive the car to the dealer to pick up the gasket and he said he'd look at it and call in a tech to verify. (also admirable, I think since I won't have to pay a diagnostic charge)

So any thoughts here?

Thanks!

Russell
Tampa, Florida

 

Not sure if there is a rubber gasket or not. Yours might be a little different. My X is a 2002.

 

i also did not need to remove the wiper arms or cowl...took about 30 seconds

 

Good afternoon. I recently replaced my filter on my 2003 Jaguar X Type 2.5. I went to the internet and found directions. They do not require that the wiper blades/arms be removed. I had my mechanic do the work and he just removed the cowling in the engine bay. Just go to your search engine and do a search on this subject. Hope this helps. Bill in Wooster USA Ohio.
2003 Jag X Type 2.5
Heated Seats
Dual Power Seats
Navigation
Back up Sensors
17" x 7" Flute Wheels
BRG or Emerald over Ivory