The code is a p0171 if that helps? Is that due to my pcv leak?

 

yup thats it

 

As said time after time above...wrap tape around the PCV hose....if its the problem the problem will disappear immediately and the MIL light will extinguish within 3 drive cycles.Means you can drive as normal while you wait for the replacement.Takes minutes to do.

 

this is one of the easiest fixes on this forum ...please read my thread (my x-type projects and install ) ....its along thread but youll find it with pics

 

Topic seems to be duplicated

 

Topic seems to be duplicated ;-)

 

This one was merged into the old one so that it would be easier to follow
Thanks

 

Well the reason I ask is because I DID wrap it in tape last night and had advanced reset my code. Drove good, started it this morning and it idled much better, but after a few mins of warming up the cruise unavail came back on as did cel. Granted the orange light turned off aftwr a minute, this leads me to believe pcv isn't the only thing.

 

85, when is your new hose coming? The new PCV hose will really tell the tale. Not to doubt your skill but there could still be air leaking around your tape job in the cold.

In answer to your other question, yes it could definitely be a combination with another vac leak. If you are only getting the one code, not both banks coding as lean. I would suspect one of your IMT o-rings.

When I had mine checked for vac leaks I had all three of the popular (IMTs, PCV, Brake Boost) leaking but it didn't really show up as codes and "limp mode" until the temperature got below freezing.

You can the other two visually. IMT o-rings should be green. Brake boost hose should have heat shrink wrap around the check valve (that bulging thing in the middle of the hose). If not, you will likely eventually have to replace these anyways.

 

I used some duck tape.. I'm pretty confident in my temporary-fix skills. And I'm still getting the same problem lights. What's up with these IMT's?

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...t=29586&page=3

Just did the IMT fix: $4 for parts, 30 minute self-labor.

 

Ok I'm gonna check that thanks man

 

How did you do the lower IMT o-ring? I would have to take out the intake manifold to get the lower IMT out. Did you just stretch the o-ring around the valve? (and cut out the old seal?)

 

yup, exactly. I didn't take out, move or touch the intake manifold at all. I just undid the lower IMT valve as much as I could. Then I lifted the yellow o-ring with a pliers in one hand and cut it with a scissors in the other hand. You have to disconnect the sensor plug before you can stretch the new o-ring in place. Once you do that, just loop the o-ring on one end of the valve and stretch it over the other end like a rubber band. It snapped perfectly into the slot on the other side when I did this. Just make sure once its in the slot that it is not twisted all the way around.

 

I went and did the same. I've replaced both IMT o-rings and the PCV hose and at least for now the MIL light is still on, but there are no cruise issues. Nothing else seems to be amiss, so hopefully the light will get tired and go out!

The lower IMT is yet another example of Jaguar not designing the car for serviceability (like the front sway bar bushings for example).

I've got 98K on the clock and this is the first performance issue I've had since the car was new, so I guess I can't squawk too much!

 

Wow that's the first issue since new? That's awesome and motivating

 

The first engine issue....there were a couple of others over the last 7 years. I did make the mistake of complaining about a whine in the rear end just before my warranty ran out last year. The dealer replaced the rear diff and totally screwed up the car. Some how they got the propshaft out of balance. They (at least according to the dealer) swapped out the diff, the half shafts the propshafts all more that once, all of which did not fix the problem. I finally got the service manager and shop foreman to take a drive with me in the late spring. They were appalled at the way the car drove (serious vibration over 65 MPH). Two days later the car was fixed. They rebalanced the propshaft (probably not with an approved method, but it works) and the car is like new again. I'm at the point where I need to change the plugs and do all the 100k stuff, but that's to be expected.

In hindsight, the whine was not worth worrying about, especially given the mess I had to endure later.

 

how much did they charge to rebalance the propshaft, if I may ask? You may want to check the brake boost hose as well, it also seems to be a common issue quoted on this board as a reason for the CEL.

 

I didn't have to pay a penny. I think they were a wee bit embarassed that they let the car out like they did. Clearly they never drove the car at speeds above 55 (like they said they did) or they would have found that I wasn't BSing them. All told they lost a lot of money on me on that repair.

 

I forgot to add that when they finally agreed to fix it they told me that they replaced the IMT seals (it was showing bank 1 lean)...which they clearly did not do (they were yellow when I replaced them). So I guess they figured out that I'd be back to get that fixed later, and they would earn some of that money back.

I did get a quote on replacing the front sway bar bushings ($435)...and I'm hoping there's an easier way to change them out than what I see in the shop manual. The back ones other than being ungodly expensive were easy.