Changing Front Rotors / Brake Pads
#2
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REMOVAL
1.Remove the brake pads
2.Remove and discard the brake caliper anchor plate retaining bolts.
3.Detach the brake caliper, brake caliper anchor plate assembly and secure to one side.
4.NOTE If the brake disc is being refitted, the tip of a wheel hub stud must be marked with a corresponding part of the brake disc for correct re-alignment.
5.Remove the brake disc.
INSTALLATION
Install new brake caliper anchor plate retaining bolts.To install, reverse the removal procedure.Tighten to 133 Nm.
1.Remove the brake pads
2.Remove and discard the brake caliper anchor plate retaining bolts.
3.Detach the brake caliper, brake caliper anchor plate assembly and secure to one side.
4.NOTE If the brake disc is being refitted, the tip of a wheel hub stud must be marked with a corresponding part of the brake disc for correct re-alignment.
5.Remove the brake disc.
INSTALLATION
Install new brake caliper anchor plate retaining bolts.To install, reverse the removal procedure.Tighten to 133 Nm.
#3
#4
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I re-used all my bolts with no problems..just put a little thread lock on them before reinstalling and torque to correct specs. Front mounting caliper monting bracket (98 lbft)...caliper retaining bolts (22 lbft)
The rear ones take a little extra effort, as you have to compress the caliper piston with a twist (lefthand side CCW) (Righthand side CW)Opening the bleed nipple helps.
Rearmounting caliper monting bracket (52 lbft)
caliper retaining bolts (24 lbft)
The rear ones take a little extra effort, as you have to compress the caliper piston with a twist (lefthand side CCW) (Righthand side CW)Opening the bleed nipple helps.
Rearmounting caliper monting bracket (52 lbft)
caliper retaining bolts (24 lbft)
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Rocket.99 (08-03-2019)
#5
#6
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The old bolts are fine and safe..the only reason to replace them is some of the threadlock that came on the original ones,comes off when you remove them..My dealer told me the same thing and they don't put new ones in unless they are damaged by removal...Whatever, do as you want.
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#9
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ORIGINAL: FactoryJaguarTech
You will need a 19mm to get wheels off. 12mm for caliper bolts and 15mm for anchor bracket.
if you haven't ever done this before, you may want have someone help you the first time that knows what they're doing.
safety first!!
You will need a 19mm to get wheels off. 12mm for caliper bolts and 15mm for anchor bracket.
if you haven't ever done this before, you may want have someone help you the first time that knows what they're doing.
safety first!!
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#10
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ORIGINAL: BuckMR2
The reason I changed the bolts is that they are very cheap and not worth risking mine or my familys or my friends lives when driving the car for the sake of a few of bolts at £1 odd each.
Better to be safe than sorry.
Your choice.
The reason I changed the bolts is that they are very cheap and not worth risking mine or my familys or my friends lives when driving the car for the sake of a few of bolts at £1 odd each.
Better to be safe than sorry.
Your choice.
I have read many times about replacing various bolts.. seems to be a catch all phrase - more of a CYA thing.
Some head bolts and Newer BMWs have some aluminum bolts that need to yeild slightly in order to clamp properly. They MUST be replaced. They are single-use fasteners. The new BMWs have stickers all over the place warning about this.
I think if the brake bolts posed any real threat they would put some effort to warn people. Brakes are serviced often in a cars life. The newer bolts with all the warnings are mostly for things that may never get replaced in the life of the car.
Just an obervation from "higher up"
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Rocket.99 (08-03-2019)
#11
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I'll email Jaguar so they can update their Jaguar Technical Information System to let them know they shouldnt be telling people to replace the £1 odd (give ir take) bolts.I'm sure they will welcome being put right and will act immediately on your wisdom.
#12
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I am speaking of using tecnically sound logic and the technical merits of a steel bolt as a fastener. If Jag has that written in there as a CYA (cover your ***) statement, they wont revoke it.
You missed my point. Jag says to remove the bumper to change the headlight bulbs. everything they say will work, but sometimes it is not absolutely necessary.
In the case of bolts there needs to be some technical understanding. the cost of the bolt is irrelevant.
Like I was saying, some aluminum fasteners and "stretch" head bolts absolutely must be renewed. there is a sound technical arguement to that. The need for renewing these bolts is so cut and dry that they put stickers all over to warn the mechanincs. I am proposing that since they did not put a sticker on the Brake bolts (Some of the most often used bolts on the car) that the need for renewing must be less. As an engineer, if it was critical to change them, I would certainly make sure that was done. Also since so many people and quick repair shops do brake service and everyone knows that the bolts are almost always reused, It would be very risky for jag to design a caliper that needed new bolts every time.
REMEMBER.. to err on the side of caution is still erring.
You missed my point. Jag says to remove the bumper to change the headlight bulbs. everything they say will work, but sometimes it is not absolutely necessary.
In the case of bolts there needs to be some technical understanding. the cost of the bolt is irrelevant.
Like I was saying, some aluminum fasteners and "stretch" head bolts absolutely must be renewed. there is a sound technical arguement to that. The need for renewing these bolts is so cut and dry that they put stickers all over to warn the mechanincs. I am proposing that since they did not put a sticker on the Brake bolts (Some of the most often used bolts on the car) that the need for renewing must be less. As an engineer, if it was critical to change them, I would certainly make sure that was done. Also since so many people and quick repair shops do brake service and everyone knows that the bolts are almost always reused, It would be very risky for jag to design a caliper that needed new bolts every time.
REMEMBER.. to err on the side of caution is still erring.
#13
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Just a side note....the BFH always is handy in a pinch.
When I do the brake jobs, I always personally replace the bolts because they come in the box with the new pads. If they didn't, I wouldn't. They can definitley be reused, however it is personal choice. Just the same as some people cut rotors, I do not. I believe in restoring vehicle to better than new condition. Just different schools of thought is all.
Glad the brake job worked out well.
When I do the brake jobs, I always personally replace the bolts because they come in the box with the new pads. If they didn't, I wouldn't. They can definitley be reused, however it is personal choice. Just the same as some people cut rotors, I do not. I believe in restoring vehicle to better than new condition. Just different schools of thought is all.
Glad the brake job worked out well.
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Lol @ Rudy
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Bo's a great asset to the forum for sure with loads of good sound technical advice posts to his credit. Just sometimes runs people up the wrong way although knowing Bo I don't think its intentional.
Nice info on the bolts issue FJT hopefully clears that up a little. As you said though, like with tyre choice, oils etc etc it can all be a matter of personal choice!
Jim
#19
#20
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I have EBC sport rotors and Akebono Euro pads...absoulutely flawless, clean and 100% silent..
FWIW...Mercedes also includes new caliper bolts in their OEM PAD kits... Reason: Like I said earlier..the new bolts come with a fresh coating of threadlock..where as the old bolts looses some of the threadlock during removal, in which case a little dab of liquid threadlock will work just fine on the old bolts....Also, the JTIS manual mentions to discard the Caliper anchor plate bolts too..Ridiculous!..I don't think you need to replace them either..they are not subject to much heat, So if that were to be an argument to replace them...makes no sense either..
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FWIW...Mercedes also includes new caliper bolts in their OEM PAD kits... Reason: Like I said earlier..the new bolts come with a fresh coating of threadlock..where as the old bolts looses some of the threadlock during removal, in which case a little dab of liquid threadlock will work just fine on the old bolts....Also, the JTIS manual mentions to discard the Caliper anchor plate bolts too..Ridiculous!..I don't think you need to replace them either..they are not subject to much heat, So if that were to be an argument to replace them...makes no sense either..