Check Engine Light
#21
DEFINITELY change that hose. If it doesn't already have a split on the bottom of it, it will eventually. Surprised it has lasted this long. I would bet that the vast majority of X-Types out there have that new hose. Cheap and a 5 minute install. Once you see the difference between the old hose and the new one, you'll see why the design was changed.
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sarahsmi (12-15-2016)
#26
I had P0171 and P1074 codes coming from the intake manifold gaskets. The set was not that expensive. I think it was around $30 - $40 for the upper and lower from OReilly's. Replacing them took a little time, but there are plenty of resources that show you how if you are fairly handy.
Watch this to see if you think you want to try it.
and
Watch this to see if you think you want to try it.
and
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sarahsmi (12-17-2016)
#29
Hello Everyone and Happy New Year!!!!!!
Here's an update. I had the Crankcase Vent Hose put on and had the smoke test done when I took her in for an oil change. The smoke test revealed no leak and the check engine light is still on, although it did go off at 1/4 tank of the last fill. So, I'm still working on it!!!
Thank you,
Here's an update. I had the Crankcase Vent Hose put on and had the smoke test done when I took her in for an oil change. The smoke test revealed no leak and the check engine light is still on, although it did go off at 1/4 tank of the last fill. So, I'm still working on it!!!
Thank you,
Last edited by sarahsmi; 01-03-2017 at 12:53 PM.
#30
Was the check engine light on when you changed the hose and since then it has still not gone out? Or did the light come on after you changed the hose? If it was on before the change it might takes some time before it goes out as you need to meet a certain number of driving cycles without the issue present before the light will go out. If the light came on after the change the new easiest things would be the IMT o-rings and the brake booster. Both cheap and easy fixes.
When you changed that hose how did the bottom look? Were there any splits in it, especially on the bottom?
When you changed that hose how did the bottom look? Were there any splits in it, especially on the bottom?
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sarahsmi (01-03-2017)
#34
Hello Everyone,
Just a quick update. I just got quoted $350 - $400 for Intake Manifold Gasket work by a mechanic who didn't even move my car from the parking spot that I left it in (in 4 hours). Thankful that he didn't charge me the $50 engine diagnoses fee, for a non diagnoses, since he didn't even touch my car, but yet disappointed that I still have no resolve. Still working on it!
Just a quick update. I just got quoted $350 - $400 for Intake Manifold Gasket work by a mechanic who didn't even move my car from the parking spot that I left it in (in 4 hours). Thankful that he didn't charge me the $50 engine diagnoses fee, for a non diagnoses, since he didn't even touch my car, but yet disappointed that I still have no resolve. Still working on it!
#35
I still think it is in your manifold gaskets. I replaced my own and it took me a maybe three hours with a lot of interruptions. Your mechanic is quoting you the cost from a book. They probably read your codes and figured if they replace all the gaskets you will be fine. I would agree based on those codes and what I have read. Figuring $100 per hour and $50 for gaskets I can see why he has the price he has. If you watch the videos I put in earlier, you will see there is not much to it. It just takes time.
I would also ask them to break down the parts and labor of you. and then get another quote.
I would also ask them to break down the parts and labor of you. and then get another quote.
#36
Join Date: May 2008
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Sarah, if you live near Wash DC, I would tell you to come on down to my place and bring the gaskets with you. Like ddsand says, the job is not all that difficult (did it on my X-Type and another members car). save you a few bucks and let you get a little greasy learning about your car too.
#37
Thanks ddsand, I agree with you and appreciate you shedding some light on the pricing. I think what disappointed me the most is that I had wanted to go someplace that would actually open the hood and really investigate the problem, even let me take a peek in there too, pretty much like what Thermo is saying!! Unfortunately, I don't live near DC, Thermo, do you know anyone in Houston???
#38
Sarah, let's review the bidding shall we? You've got codes P0171 and P0714, which mean you've got an air leak downstream of the mass airflow sensor (MAF) affecting both banks of cylinders. In the picture look to the right of the blue funnel. The MAF is the rectangular box with blue paint slash on it mounted in the air intake boot. Your air leak is somewhere to the right (downstream) of the MAF. I'd start with a very thorough inspection of the ribbed intake boot adjacent to the MAF - especially since both banks are showing lean. To me that's the key fact - both banks. It could be something as simple as a crack in that boot or a loose clamp. Your codes are "generic," meaning that they apply to all car manufacturers; they are not Jaguar-specific. A competent shop will know how to find and fix the leak(s). I suggest you do a net search for "jaguar repair shop houston," then make a list of the shops. Then see if you can find some reviews of those shops. That may lead you to one that can help you.
Last edited by swingwing; 02-02-2017 at 09:17 AM. Reason: Added sentences.
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