cleaning under the hood
#2
#3
thanks for the well thought advice....Im cleaning the engine now..I always ask questions here advice here is always better than anywere else!!
#4
This is my 2 cents on this subject.
#7
I think the engine bay is layed out a bit different in the xtypes, than the other xjs, s-types or xks. I've heard more than a few problems with getting water in the coils and messing with electrical connectors. Its a chance everyone takes, but as long as you are informed, you may proceed.
Only caveat, when their clean, post pictures in the detailing section. And I thank you in advance.
Only caveat, when their clean, post pictures in the detailing section. And I thank you in advance.
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#8
When the engine is dry, try using a small 1" paintbrush to loosen / remove any fine dirt particles from any crevices or hard to reach places where the dirt accumulates.
There should be no problem with a light steam cleaning as long as you're careful. Depending what model you have its usually a good idea to wrap any electrical components in cling film or similar to protect as much as possible before using a steam cleaner. Diesels aren't a problem.
For any extreme dirt / grease / grime try using gunk or similar de-greaser and leave to soak for 10 mins or so and then rinse.
Protect any hoses and engine cover etc etc with possible some of the following
Meguiars APC / Poorboys Natural Dressing for a deep lustre.
Some parts that are usually always neglected is the underside of the bonet area. I always give that area a wipe down as part of my wash routine and it looks as good as new
#9
I clean the engine compartments on all my cars twice a year. I used to do this professionally while working my way through college. Use Simple Green or similar non-toxic degreaser. You can cut it with water at 50/50 for most of the bay, but use 100% for the grease/oil areas.
Don't use a pressure washer, use a regular garden hose, preferably with a hot water hookup. Soak w/ simple green for about 5 to 10, then loosen the heavy stuff with a brush of your choice (you will probably be throwing the brush away afterwards). Rinse. Repeat as needed.
Don't concentrate a spray at electrical connections and components. You can wrap if you want some extra security, but generally not needed on modern vehicles. Older cars with distributors you should wrap the components.
Start the car immediately after done washing, let idle for 5 to 10 min to build up heat and speed dry time. Optional - use compressed air to blow out low areas. Leave the hood open for air drying for a half hour or so, depending on temp/weather conditions.
Spray wax all painted surfaces (eagle 1 nano works good). Wipe down everything else. Wash your car immediately after to remove any residue from exterior painted surfaces and windshield.
Only use a rubber treatment sparingly,as it can help dirt stick if used excessivly. I skip that stuff. Don't use clear coat on anything either (old dealer trick) - it will flake and look like crap shortly.
Don't use a pressure washer, use a regular garden hose, preferably with a hot water hookup. Soak w/ simple green for about 5 to 10, then loosen the heavy stuff with a brush of your choice (you will probably be throwing the brush away afterwards). Rinse. Repeat as needed.
Don't concentrate a spray at electrical connections and components. You can wrap if you want some extra security, but generally not needed on modern vehicles. Older cars with distributors you should wrap the components.
Start the car immediately after done washing, let idle for 5 to 10 min to build up heat and speed dry time. Optional - use compressed air to blow out low areas. Leave the hood open for air drying for a half hour or so, depending on temp/weather conditions.
Spray wax all painted surfaces (eagle 1 nano works good). Wipe down everything else. Wash your car immediately after to remove any residue from exterior painted surfaces and windshield.
Only use a rubber treatment sparingly,as it can help dirt stick if used excessivly. I skip that stuff. Don't use clear coat on anything either (old dealer trick) - it will flake and look like crap shortly.
#10
When the engine is dry, try using a small 1" paintbrush to loosen / remove any fine dirt particles from any crevices or hard to reach places where the dirt accumulates.
There should be no problem with a light steam cleaning as long as you're careful. Depending what model you have its usually a good idea to wrap any electrical components in cling film or similar to protect as much as possible before using a steam cleaner. Diesels aren't a problem.
For any extreme dirt / grease / grime try using gunk or similar de-greaser and leave to soak for 10 mins or so and then rinse.
Protect any hoses and engine cover etc etc with possible some of the following
Meguiars APC / Poorboys Natural Dressing for a deep lustre.
Some parts that are usually always neglected is the underside of the bonet area. I always give that area a wipe down as part of my wash routine and it looks as good as new
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