How do I reset the traction control and ABS light? Is there a soft reboot to reset this error code C1175? I know in some non Jag models we could pull battery and do a master reset but the car needs to relearn everything and would lile to avoid that.

Only electrical problems up to now is backup warning light is temperamental and tach stops working daily here and there but cruise control and all other functions work correctly.

I have a fixd but Do not yet have a good OBDII scanner but have no problem buying one so looking foe suggestions there as well.



Knocked this loose while driving, causing the traction control light to come on and the switch on console disable. Few miles later ABS light came on. Parked car and upon restart engine light kicked on and traction control gave me a hard time for 50 feet or so then I drove 25 mile home no problem. The cruise control is not operating either.

Plugged in the Fixd and let me clear engine code but not the c1175 left rear wheel sensor. Assuming the real problem is the loose switch causing the code. I was able to reinstall switch without a problem.

Car has been with me 2 years and this is the first issue, self-inflicted unfortunately.

Thanks

Ron

 

Ron, I would do a few checks to make sure the brake lights are working like they should, but from the sounds of things, that switch is not the source of your issue, it is the C1175 code that you have. That is telling me that your left rear wheel speed sensor (most likely the reluctance ring inside) is broke. Even having a single wheel speed sensor will cause all of what you are seeing to come on. Fix the C1175 code and I bet all your other lights go away.

 

Hey Thermo. Thanks for the reply. So you're thinking just a coincidence? I will pull the wheel this weekend and get a look. After replacing parts in the rear will I need to get a scanner to shut off lights or will they go away automatically?

last question, so you have a favorite scanner for Jags say less than $400?

 

Ronks, you get the condition for the wheel speed sensor fixed, the ABS and brake lights will go out. The check engine light will remain for 5 starts (with each start lasting 5+ minutes/10,000+ engine revolutions). If you need the CEL code cleared right away, then simply use a scanner and clear the code. That will clear the CEL right away.

As for favorite scanner, the question I guess I have to ask back is "what are you looking for the scanner to do?". This is where, if you are just after something to read the basic codes and give you some real time data, the ELM 327 (version 2.1) blue tooth device is hard to beat. The device is like $20, the program (Torque app for on your android phone) is free unless you want the extra features, then it costs you an extra $5. If you want something to probe into the deep, dark depths of your car and be able to do anything the dealership can, then it will take a little bit of work, but for $400, you can get a working copy of SDD (the dealership scanner). They are for sale on E-bay and other like places. Just a warning though, SDD is very powerful and you start playing too deep, you can bugger up things so fast it is not even funny. Hence the question.

 

Thanks for the reply. I didn't even know that the Jag specific could be had that cheap but agree probably overkill for me. I have an 04 Jeep TJ and this 06 c type so a more universal unit would probably be better. As prices come down looking to pass this Jag to my daughter and get myself am old Bentley Arnage to play with. So forward thinking would like a reader to fit those 3 vehicles and bw able to do engine code ABS SRS bleed brakes etc.. Looking for an economical version of the Snap On scanner.

While on the Bentley any years to avoid?

Thanks again for your help.

 

Can't help you with the Bentley and years to avoid. That is where a bit of research may be needed on your part. This is where learning the sister vehicles is important and seeing what the problems are there. Since Bentley is part of VW since 1998, this will give you a starting place. So, start with the upper end of VW and you will be able to figure out your weaknesses.

 

Pulled wheel sensor today and there was a small build up of rust chips that were magnetically stuck to sensor so cleaned them. I could see the ring through the hole it looked brand new ( I am in South Florida) and I took a screw driver and gently pushed on the ring and it is solid. Put it back together but the abs traction and check engine were still on when I started and even after a 3 mile test ride.

Put the Fixd tool back on and only the check engine light is on the computer list so I reset the check engine which came on again.

When I first started I used the car's diagnostic and I believe it flashed a C1175 and a check engine code blinking quickly.

Fixd is only reading the check engine light now after cleaning the magnetic pickup and the car self diagnosis is not reading the C1175 or the check engine which was flashing originally.

Followed the driver's rear sensor cable to where it went into the frame rail but did not see how it connected to the car harness. Do I need to pull cabling out of the rail or rear seat to check the connection?

Thermo I appreciate your help.

Ron

 

Ronks, the next thing I would try doing is swapping sensors between the rear wheels. See if you go from the C1175 to a C1165 code. If that happens, then the sensor is ka-put on the right side.

From here, this would be leaving wiring. Yes, the wiring runs along the frame rail up to under the rear seat where it enters the car. You will need to remove the door sills and the trim there to access the wiring harness You can then hand over hand the wiring to see if you see any damage. The other thing that I would tell you to do is to get what is called a wire tracer. An example would be: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sperry-Inst...cAAOSwiOdfcWA3 (this is the model I have, the yellow box opens up on the back and there is a selection of connectors to attach to all sorts of stuff, you would be using the alligator clips). What you would do is connect the black lead to the body of the car and the red lead to one of the terminals in the plug (may need a little piece of wire to shove in the plug so you have something to clip on. From there, you take the small "wand" and start following the wiring forward to the ABS unit. Where you loose the signal, that is within a few inches of your broken wire. If you can follow the one wire all the way to the ABS module, then move the red alligator clip to the other wire and follow it. If you can follow both wires up to the ABS unit, then odds are, you are looking at a bad electronics module on the ABS unit.

 

Hey Thermo,

Was able to get back at it this morning. Built a harness to leave each sensor in it's original hole but run left car wiring to right and vice versa.

After short road test the code switched from left to right pointing to a bad left rear sensor. I also checked the harness up to the ABS sensor. Another user posted what terminals to check but was wrong on my chassis .

Here is my chassis pin config at ABS box

LR:
White wire red stripe pin 14. Use positive ohm
Green wire black strip pin 13. Use negative ohm
I got an ohm reading of 23.44 and this was the bad sensor

RR:
white wire green stripe pin 26. Use positive ohm.
Brown wire green stripe pin 25. Use negative ohm.
I got an ohm reading of 20.26 and this was my good sensor.

I have ordered 2 new sensors which will be here in a week. Will update then.

Thanks again for all the help this far.

Ron

 

Stick with the group, we will get to the bottom of a problem. We know most of the common issues. In your case, you just happen to have a problem that wasn't quite so common.

As for testing the speed sensors, I find there is a better test that is a bit more reflective of the state of the sensor. In short, you position the sensor near the edge of a table. You then connect a multimeter to the 2 pins of the sensor and set the multimeter to read VDC (2V scale is normally pretty good). You then take a large metal tool (say a big screw driver) and wave it in front of the sensor. The closer and faster you move the tool, the bigger the pulse will be on the multimeter. A bad sensor will have a much lower output. This is where having a new and old sensor will make things very obvious. The big thing is not to strike the end of the sensor.

 

Very cool!! Never thought of using the 2v to test the pulse. Would have guessed the sensor acted more like a switch, when metal excited the magnet, More like an on off toggle.

Where the car is sitting for a couple days will give me a chance to do a little service, thinking with 90k on her might be a good time to check/change the rear differential fluid. Have read posts here where people love and hate different weights and manufacturers. Any favorite?


Hope you have a great weekend!

Ron

 

I did the rear end lube in my X-Type. Get yourself a good pump. You are going to need it. There is no drain hole. You have to suck out the 1.5 liters of fluid. With as thick as it is, plan on it taking a little bit of time.

As for fluid, just put in the recommended 75W-140 full synthetic. I always bought the Mobil1 fluid as that was the only full synthetic fluid I could find. But this has been a few years. I am sure there are more out there, especially if you look online. Stick with a major name and you will be fine.

 

I like Royal Purple.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...change-181854/

 

Hey guys back up and running. When I went to order sensor local parts stores wanted $138 and 5 days to get it. Hit ebay and bought a new one for $15 ( a piece bought two) arrived in 7 days and quality was excellent. Thanks for the help on this. The code cleared before I even reached the stop sign and of my street.

next project is my backup alarm semi-retired. It works now and then which in this case gives a false sense of security.

 

Ronks, with the back up sensor, start with getting a second person and having them shift in and out of REVERSE until the fault shows up. With the fault in (car in REVERSE), put your ear up to each of the 4 sensors. You should hear a high pitch chirp/squeal. The sensor that is quiet is your problem child. If all 4 are quiet, then you either have a bad back up sensor module. If you get no sound when you are backing up, then you most likely have either a bad speaker or the reverse light signal is not making it to the backup sensor module.