Climate Control Fan stopped working
#21
10-20-2021, 03:00 PM
Thank you Thermo:)
02Xtype, well, first humor me and check fuses F37 (30 amp fuse) and fuse F39 (10 amp fuse). Both are in the passenger foot well fuse box. After that, using a multimeter, get into the passenger foot well area and find the power plug for the blower motor. Stick the red lead into the side of the plug that has the orange/yellow wire. Do you have 12 VDC there when the system should be running? If no, then you either have a bad F37 fuse (has opened, but looks good), the wiring between the fuse is failed, or the relay is bad internally and requires replacement. In this case, I would move the multimeter over to fuse F37 and stick the black lead on any bare metal part of the car you can find and then use the red lead to touch both of the small metal posts on the top of the fuse. If you get 12 VDC on both sides, bad wire between the fuse and the blower motor. If you get 0 VDC on both terminals, relay issue (write me and I will give you a few more checks to make), or if you get 12 VDC on one side, but 0 VDC on the other, you have a bad fuse, replace it.
Assuming you got 12 VDC on the orange/yellow wire to the blower motor with the system set for max blower speed, move the red lead over to the green black wire (other side of the plug for the blower motor). Do you get 12 VDC there? If yes, then your climate control module is bad. If you get 0 VDC, then your blower motor is toast. If you suspect the climate control module, do one final check. Remove the plug off of the blower motor and then switch over the multimeter to read resistance. Now, with the system lined up for max air flow, stick the red lead on the green/black wire and the black lead to the green/black wire on the blower resistor. If you get 0 ohm resistance (anything under 5 ohms is good), then that confirms a good wire coming off of the blower motor and your problem is the climate control module. If you get a high resistance reading, you have a bad wire between the blower motor and the climate control module.
If you need more help, let me know. I will assist you however I can.
Assuming you got 12 VDC on the orange/yellow wire to the blower motor with the system set for max blower speed, move the red lead over to the green black wire (other side of the plug for the blower motor). Do you get 12 VDC there? If yes, then your climate control module is bad. If you get 0 VDC, then your blower motor is toast. If you suspect the climate control module, do one final check. Remove the plug off of the blower motor and then switch over the multimeter to read resistance. Now, with the system lined up for max air flow, stick the red lead on the green/black wire and the black lead to the green/black wire on the blower resistor. If you get 0 ohm resistance (anything under 5 ohms is good), then that confirms a good wire coming off of the blower motor and your problem is the climate control module. If you get a high resistance reading, you have a bad wire between the blower motor and the climate control module.
If you need more help, let me know. I will assist you however I can.
Thank you so much for your detailed instructions for the process on finding out that my climate control module is bad on my 02 Xtype. I had taken it to a shop and I got the whole “it could be your CCM!” I didn’t want “it could be!” They wanted to charge me $1000 for the replacement part then Lord knows how much for labor! I have read what others have done and will buy a replacement from a “pick and pull” and with your instructions I will replace that sucker myself😁 I swear I think shops like to take advantage when they see a woman come in but they got this girl wrong. My husband and I with your awesome instructions are more than capable of doing this ourselves!
Thanks again my friend😁
Bonnie
2002 Xtype 36,000 miles
#22
10-20-2021, 04:58 PM
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Bonnie, stick around, learn more about your car. Take what you know and make sure to keep passing it around. That is what makes this place so great. From your name, sounds like you are up in PA. I am south of you a little ways in Southern Maryland. I am always inviting people over to do work on their car. So, if there is something that you are not sure about, post here and/or let me know and we can go from there.
#23
03-12-2022, 10:49 AM
02Xtype, well, first humor me and check fuses F37 (30 amp fuse) and fuse F39 (10 amp fuse). Both are in the passenger foot well fuse box. After that, using a multimeter, get into the passenger foot well area and find the power plug for the blower motor. Stick the red lead into the side of the plug that has the orange/yellow wire. Do you have 12 VDC there when the system should be running? If no, then you either have a bad F37 fuse (has opened, but looks good), the wiring between the fuse is failed, or the relay is bad internally and requires replacement. In this case, I would move the multimeter over to fuse F37 and stick the black lead on any bare metal part of the car you can find and then use the red lead to touch both of the small metal posts on the top of the fuse. If you get 12 VDC on both sides, bad wire between the fuse and the blower motor. If you get 0 VDC on both terminals, relay issue (write me and I will give you a few more checks to make), or if you get 12 VDC on one side, but 0 VDC on the other, you have a bad fuse, replace it.
Assuming you got 12 VDC on the orange/yellow wire to the blower motor with the system set for max blower speed, move the red lead over to the green black wire (other side of the plug for the blower motor). Do you get 12 VDC there? If yes, then your climate control module is bad. If you get 0 VDC, then your blower motor is toast. If you suspect the climate control module, do one final check. Remove the plug off of the blower motor and then switch over the multimeter to read resistance. Now, with the system lined up for max air flow, stick the red lead on the green/black wire and the black lead to the green/black wire on the blower resistor. If you get 0 ohm resistance (anything under 5 ohms is good), then that confirms a good wire coming off of the blower motor and your problem is the climate control module. If you get a high resistance reading, you have a bad wire between the blower motor and the climate control module.
If you need more help, let me know. I will assist you however I can.
Assuming you got 12 VDC on the orange/yellow wire to the blower motor with the system set for max blower speed, move the red lead over to the green black wire (other side of the plug for the blower motor). Do you get 12 VDC there? If yes, then your climate control module is bad. If you get 0 VDC, then your blower motor is toast. If you suspect the climate control module, do one final check. Remove the plug off of the blower motor and then switch over the multimeter to read resistance. Now, with the system lined up for max air flow, stick the red lead on the green/black wire and the black lead to the green/black wire on the blower resistor. If you get 0 ohm resistance (anything under 5 ohms is good), then that confirms a good wire coming off of the blower motor and your problem is the climate control module. If you get a high resistance reading, you have a bad wire between the blower motor and the climate control module.
If you need more help, let me know. I will assist you however I can.
#24
03-12-2022, 02:52 PM
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Erictor, what year is your car. Keep in mind that there are 2 completely different wiring harnesses for the X-Type depending on the year of the vehicle. As with the above statement, that was relating to vehicles made on/before March 2004. If you have a car made after March 2004, the nyo have a different wiring harness and the fuses are different (there are even some wiring differences). So, lets start with getting the year of your car and going from there. If you have a 2004, then please look in the driver's door jam and include the month/year that your car was built. Also note that there are differnces between left and right hand drive cars. Because you talk about the fuse box being on the other side (ie driver's side), that would make me believe that you have a right hand drive car (where Bonnie has a left hand drive car).
#25
03-16-2022, 08:00 AM
[QUOTE=Thermo;2505485]Erictor, what year is your car. Keep in mind that there are 2 completely different wiring harnesses for the X-Type depending on the year of the vehicle. As with the above statement, that was relating to vehicles made on/before March 2004. If you have a car made after March 2004, the nyo have a different wiring harness and the fuses are different (there are even some wiring differences). So, lets start with getting the year of your car and going from there. If you have a 2004, then please look in the driver's door jam and include the month/year that your car was built. Also note that there are differnces between left and right hand drive cars. Because you talk about the fuse box being on the other side (ie driver's side), that would make me believe that you have a right hand drive car (where Bonnie has a left hand drive car).
so I got my blower to work but now my heater is not blowing hot
so I got my blower to work but now my heater is not blowing hot
#26
03-16-2022, 04:13 PM
Veteran Member
Erictor7060,
On this site - as it is in life....sometimes you need to give to receive!
It appears Thermo asked you to confirm your year and month of production, as your car was manufactured in the transition year in the production where a lot of changes were made within the build components for these cars.
Without knowing that he (and others that are keen to help you) are unable to refer to the correct schematics and parts diagrams relevant to your exact car, therefore if you want answers to your questions, it would be invaluable to answer those asked of you.
Seeing you latest post, it would also be very helpful to know what you found was the cause of your heater fan (blower) not to be working?
Was it a fuse, if so what fuse number, if not a fuse then what actual cause did you find?
How long have you had the car?
Is it your daily driver, or does it have long periods of sitting unused?
When did the heater stop working (delivering heat)?
Is that around the time you were undertaking other work on the car?
Are there any other functions of your climate control system not working, such as:-
Can you get the airflow to be correctly directed to all the vents, front vents, windscreen, floor etc?
Is your AC working?
Any issues with your climate control LCD display or switch lights?
From an engine perspective, is the engine coming up to proper operating temperature?
Do you have the correct coolant fluid level in your expansion tank?
If water levels and water temperature are good and the climate control system is able to direct airflow to all the proper vents when asked, then there are two logical possibilities of your no heating effect.
Either the heater core has become blocked and you are not getting hot water passing through it in sufficient volume to heat the air, or the heating airflow flap is not opening to allow the heater core airflow to be distributed within the car.
You might want to start with testing the heater core, which you can disconnect the appropriate water pipes in the engine bay to then test with an external water source to see if you can obtain good water flow through the heater core.
If that is good, then you might be looking at a problem with an actuator or actuator drive shaft in the heater assembly that is not opening the heater airflow pathway properly.
On this site - as it is in life....sometimes you need to give to receive!
It appears Thermo asked you to confirm your year and month of production, as your car was manufactured in the transition year in the production where a lot of changes were made within the build components for these cars.
Without knowing that he (and others that are keen to help you) are unable to refer to the correct schematics and parts diagrams relevant to your exact car, therefore if you want answers to your questions, it would be invaluable to answer those asked of you.
Seeing you latest post, it would also be very helpful to know what you found was the cause of your heater fan (blower) not to be working?
Was it a fuse, if so what fuse number, if not a fuse then what actual cause did you find?
How long have you had the car?
Is it your daily driver, or does it have long periods of sitting unused?
When did the heater stop working (delivering heat)?
Is that around the time you were undertaking other work on the car?
Are there any other functions of your climate control system not working, such as:-
Can you get the airflow to be correctly directed to all the vents, front vents, windscreen, floor etc?
Is your AC working?
Any issues with your climate control LCD display or switch lights?
From an engine perspective, is the engine coming up to proper operating temperature?
Do you have the correct coolant fluid level in your expansion tank?
If water levels and water temperature are good and the climate control system is able to direct airflow to all the proper vents when asked, then there are two logical possibilities of your no heating effect.
Either the heater core has become blocked and you are not getting hot water passing through it in sufficient volume to heat the air, or the heating airflow flap is not opening to allow the heater core airflow to be distributed within the car.
You might want to start with testing the heater core, which you can disconnect the appropriate water pipes in the engine bay to then test with an external water source to see if you can obtain good water flow through the heater core.
If that is good, then you might be looking at a problem with an actuator or actuator drive shaft in the heater assembly that is not opening the heater airflow pathway properly.
The following users liked this post:
astromorg (03-17-2022)
#27
03-18-2022, 02:57 AM
Member
Range Rover heater control,
hi, old post I know ! …. I’m using a Range Rover sport 2010 heater on another vehicle,
what input does the heater resistor need to control the heater motor speed ?
what input does the heater resistor need to control the heater motor speed ?
02Xtype, well, first humor me and check fuses F37 (30 amp fuse) and fuse F39 (10 amp fuse). Both are in the passenger foot well fuse box. After that, using a multimeter, get into the passenger foot well area and find the power plug for the blower motor. Stick the red lead into the side of the plug that has the orange/yellow wire. Do you have 12 VDC there when the system should be running? If no, then you either have a bad F37 fuse (has opened, but looks good), the wiring between the fuse is failed, or the relay is bad internally and requires replacement. In this case, I would move the multimeter over to fuse F37 and stick the black lead on any bare metal part of the car you can find and then use the red lead to touch both of the small metal posts on the top of the fuse. If you get 12 VDC on both sides, bad wire between the fuse and the blower motor. If you get 0 VDC on both terminals, relay issue (write me and I will give you a few more checks to make), or if you get 12 VDC on one side, but 0 VDC on the other, you have a bad fuse, replace it.
Assuming you got 12 VDC on the orange/yellow wire to the blower motor with the system set for max blower speed, move the red lead over to the green black wire (other side of the plug for the blower motor). Do you get 12 VDC there? If yes, then your climate control module is bad. If you get 0 VDC, then your blower motor is toast. If you suspect the climate control module, do one final check. Remove the plug off of the blower motor and then switch over the multimeter to read resistance. Now, with the system lined up for max air flow, stick the red lead on the green/black wire and the black lead to the green/black wire on the blower resistor. If you get 0 ohm resistance (anything under 5 ohms is good), then that confirms a good wire coming off of the blower motor and your problem is the climate control module. If you get a high resistance reading, you have a bad wire between the blower motor and the climate control module.
If you need more help, let me know. I will assist you however I can.
Assuming you got 12 VDC on the orange/yellow wire to the blower motor with the system set for max blower speed, move the red lead over to the green black wire (other side of the plug for the blower motor). Do you get 12 VDC there? If yes, then your climate control module is bad. If you get 0 VDC, then your blower motor is toast. If you suspect the climate control module, do one final check. Remove the plug off of the blower motor and then switch over the multimeter to read resistance. Now, with the system lined up for max air flow, stick the red lead on the green/black wire and the black lead to the green/black wire on the blower resistor. If you get 0 ohm resistance (anything under 5 ohms is good), then that confirms a good wire coming off of the blower motor and your problem is the climate control module. If you get a high resistance reading, you have a bad wire between the blower motor and the climate control module.
If you need more help, let me know. I will assist you however I can.
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