Code P1647 o2 sensor b2 upstream repair
#1
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So I picked up a scanner and pulled this code. With the help of this forum I was able to deduce the reason and research enough to build up some courage to tackle the o2 sensor replacement. Thanks to all who have shared. Now my experience below.
Accessing and loosening the sensor are the toughest parts. The entire shroud and airbox need to be removed. I disconnected the intake box from the rubber intake hose to gain more space. Once the airbox was removed I removed the intake horns to make room to work - tricky to remove but doable. I tried to get to the sensor, which is under the airbox on the exhaust, protruding out of a hole in the heatsheild. A o2 offset socket fitting is a must. I still did not have enough room. I had to drain and disconnect coolant hose and a rigid coolant pipe. This is the only way to have enough space to work. After disconnecting the terminal of the sensor, I then fit on the socket and a wrench said a silent prayer and after major force was applied the sensor spun loose. I cleaned the female threads, applied copper anti seize to the new sensor threads (it came with the new sensor - Denso $65 from Rockauto) reasslembled in reverse order, topped off the coolant, and engine light is off. Awaiting for the P1111 code to appear, but it seems this was the culprit.
A lot of the plastic pieces are brittle due to heat and age. I reattached with cable ties to reinforce.
Gave it a car wash afterwards as a treat
John
Accessing and loosening the sensor are the toughest parts. The entire shroud and airbox need to be removed. I disconnected the intake box from the rubber intake hose to gain more space. Once the airbox was removed I removed the intake horns to make room to work - tricky to remove but doable. I tried to get to the sensor, which is under the airbox on the exhaust, protruding out of a hole in the heatsheild. A o2 offset socket fitting is a must. I still did not have enough room. I had to drain and disconnect coolant hose and a rigid coolant pipe. This is the only way to have enough space to work. After disconnecting the terminal of the sensor, I then fit on the socket and a wrench said a silent prayer and after major force was applied the sensor spun loose. I cleaned the female threads, applied copper anti seize to the new sensor threads (it came with the new sensor - Denso $65 from Rockauto) reasslembled in reverse order, topped off the coolant, and engine light is off. Awaiting for the P1111 code to appear, but it seems this was the culprit.
A lot of the plastic pieces are brittle due to heat and age. I reattached with cable ties to reinforce.
Gave it a car wash afterwards as a treat
John
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10-06-2015 09:40 PM
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