codes c1145, c1155, c1165, c1175, p1000
#1
05-04-2018 | 07:33 PM
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codes c1145, c1155, c1165, c1175, p1000
I recently had an issue with my front passenger side wheel hub and bearing so I took it to the mechanic and they replaced the hub with the ball bearings. when i got the car back a left rear wheel speed sensor light came on apparently when they jacked my car they ended up cutting the rear wheel speed sensor so i ended up resoldering the speedsensor wire harness as I had done in the past im unsure if i may have first crossed the wires but when i eventually turned the car back on i now saw all 4 wheel tire sensor codes come up plus the abs light and dsc fault. currently as it states in the title these are all the codes i see in the computer c1145, c1155, c1165, c1175, p1000
i dont see a code for the abs module so im hoping someone can point me in the right direc5ion on wha
i dont see a code for the abs module so im hoping someone can point me in the right direc5ion on wha
#2
05-04-2018 | 07:39 PM
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I recently had an issue with my front passenger side wheel hub and bearing so I took it to the mechanic and they replaced the hub with the ball bearings. when i got the car back a left rear wheel speed sensor light came on apparently when they jacked my car they ended up cutting the rear wheel speed sensor so i ended up resoldering the speedsensor wire harness as I had done in the past im unsure if i may have first crossed the wires this time around but when i eventually turned the car back on i now saw all 4 wheel tire sensor codes come up plus the abs light and dsc fault. I resoldered the wire again and all the lights went off but when i started driving they all came back on and while i give it gas i can hear the abs kicking in and giving the car gas ends up stopping and going and currently as it states in the title these are all the codes i see in the computer c1145, c1155, c1165, c1175, p1000 plus the abs light, engine light, and dsc fault message.
in order to be able to use the car i have to shutdown the dsc feature when i turn the car on
i dont see a code for the abs module as I have seen in other posts so im hoping someone can point me in the right direction on what I can try to figure out where the issue may be. i am thinking of replacing the rear wheel sensor but like i said before the mechanic it was working fine.
in order to be able to use the car i have to shutdown the dsc feature when i turn the car on
i dont see a code for the abs module as I have seen in other posts so im hoping someone can point me in the right direction on what I can try to figure out where the issue may be. i am thinking of replacing the rear wheel sensor but like i said before the mechanic it was working fine.
#3
05-04-2018 | 11:13 PM
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From: Houston, TX
piroboot: We need more info to understand the problem.....
1) US or UK X-Type? "Passenger-side" depends where you are
2) What code reader are you using? Most OBD code readers can't see ABS codes, and even fewer can read Jaguar ABS codes. I assume you are using an ABS code reader programmed for Jaguars, yes?
3) Any ABS or DSC issues, warning lights or error codes prior to replacing the front passenger wheel hub and bearing?
4) Immediately after replacing the wheel hub & bearing, while driving home from the repair shop, was the only ABS issue an error code C1175 - left rear wheel speed sensor fault?
5) Did the additional speed sensor error codes C1145 (RF), C1155 (LF) & C1165 (RR) appear for the first time after, and not before your 1st unsuccessful attempt to repair the cut wire to the left rear speed sensor?
6) After your 2nd, presumably successful repair of the cut wire to the left rear speed sensor, do all four error codes C1145 (RF), C1155 (LF), C1165 (RR) & C1175 (LR) now appear every time soon after you start and begin driving your X-Type?
1) US or UK X-Type? "Passenger-side" depends where you are
2) What code reader are you using? Most OBD code readers can't see ABS codes, and even fewer can read Jaguar ABS codes. I assume you are using an ABS code reader programmed for Jaguars, yes?
3) Any ABS or DSC issues, warning lights or error codes prior to replacing the front passenger wheel hub and bearing?
4) Immediately after replacing the wheel hub & bearing, while driving home from the repair shop, was the only ABS issue an error code C1175 - left rear wheel speed sensor fault?
5) Did the additional speed sensor error codes C1145 (RF), C1155 (LF) & C1165 (RR) appear for the first time after, and not before your 1st unsuccessful attempt to repair the cut wire to the left rear speed sensor?
6) After your 2nd, presumably successful repair of the cut wire to the left rear speed sensor, do all four error codes C1145 (RF), C1155 (LF), C1165 (RR) & C1175 (LR) now appear every time soon after you start and begin driving your X-Type?
#4
05-07-2018 | 09:02 AM
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piroboot: We need more info to understand the problem.....
1) US or UK X-Type? "Passenger-side" depends where you are
US X-type
2) What code reader are you using? Most OBD code readers can't see ABS codes, and even fewer can read Jaguar ABS codes. I assume you are using an ABS code reader programmed for Jaguars, yes?
Unfortunately I am not just a blueBluet code reader, I did take it to advanced Auto parts where the guy got the same codes using his fancy reader. Can you recommend one that may give me more insight??
3) Any ABS or DSC issues, warning lights or error codes prior to replacing the front passenger wheel hub and bearing?
Nope none prior to the change.
4) Immediately after replacing the wheel hub & bearing, while driving home from the repair shop, was the only ABS issue an error code C1175 - left rear wheel speed sensor fault?
Yes that was the only one which coincided with the short to that specific speed sensor.
5) Did the additional speed sensor error codes C1145 (RF), C1155 (LF) & C1165 (RR) appear for the first time after, and not before your 1st unsuccessful attempt to repair the cut wire to the left rear speed sensor?
Correct they appeared after my 1st attempt to repair the wire.
6) After your 2nd, presumably successful repair of the cut wire to the left rear speed sensor, do all four error codes C1145 (RF), C1155 (LF), C1165 (RR) & C1175 (LR) now appear every time soon after you start and begin driving your X-Type?
1) US or UK X-Type? "Passenger-side" depends where you are
US X-type
2) What code reader are you using? Most OBD code readers can't see ABS codes, and even fewer can read Jaguar ABS codes. I assume you are using an ABS code reader programmed for Jaguars, yes?
Unfortunately I am not just a blueBluet code reader, I did take it to advanced Auto parts where the guy got the same codes using his fancy reader. Can you recommend one that may give me more insight??
3) Any ABS or DSC issues, warning lights or error codes prior to replacing the front passenger wheel hub and bearing?
Nope none prior to the change.
4) Immediately after replacing the wheel hub & bearing, while driving home from the repair shop, was the only ABS issue an error code C1175 - left rear wheel speed sensor fault?
Yes that was the only one which coincided with the short to that specific speed sensor.
5) Did the additional speed sensor error codes C1145 (RF), C1155 (LF) & C1165 (RR) appear for the first time after, and not before your 1st unsuccessful attempt to repair the cut wire to the left rear speed sensor?
Correct they appeared after my 1st attempt to repair the wire.
6) After your 2nd, presumably successful repair of the cut wire to the left rear speed sensor, do all four error codes C1145 (RF), C1155 (LF), C1165 (RR) & C1175 (LR) now appear every time soon after you start and begin driving your X-Type?
#5
05-07-2018 | 11:35 AM
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From: Houston, TX
piroboot: To read ABS error codes, I use an Autel AL619 scanner.
My initial question was: "Maybe your mechanic installed the new front bearing backwards?" But there were no front wheel ABS errors during the drive home from the mechanic, so he must have installed the bearing correctly, with the magnetic side facing the ABS sensor.
My 2nd question was: "Maybe the crushed wire to the rear ABS sensor somehow damaged the electronics in the ABS module?" But on your drive home from the mechanic, the only ABS code was C1175 - LR speed sensor fault. So it seems your ABS module was working, and the only damage was the wire to the left rear speed sensor.
My 3rd question was: "Was the ABS module damaged by the faulty repair to the LR wire?" Seems "yes" because the four error codes all appeared for the first time after the faulty repair: C1145 (RF), C1155 (LF), C1165 (RR) & C1175 (LR).
My 4th question was: "Is the damage temporary or permanent to the electronics in the ABS module?" Unfortunately it seems permanent, since these multiple ABS errors including the brake light and CEL now occur each time you start the car.
So what are your options from here:
1) Reset the ABS error codes. If the damage was temporary, this should clear it. A long shot, but worth a try.
2) Replace the ABS electronic module - not the entire ABS - just the electronic module. It's held on with six T20 screws. Match the Bosch part number on the bottom of your ABS module, likely 0 265 950 XXX. They sell on eBay for less than $100 used. For example, the Bosch part number is 0 265 950 029 for the ABS module on my 2002 with DSC. The part number for your ABS likely has a different last 3 numbers for a different model year or without DSC.
3) Have your ABS module repaired for ~$95 - $110. Several eBay vendors do this. If it can't be fixed, the diagnostic fee is minimal. Search eBay for "bosch 5.7 abs repair"
Good luck, and let us know the outcome.
My initial question was: "Maybe your mechanic installed the new front bearing backwards?" But there were no front wheel ABS errors during the drive home from the mechanic, so he must have installed the bearing correctly, with the magnetic side facing the ABS sensor.
My 2nd question was: "Maybe the crushed wire to the rear ABS sensor somehow damaged the electronics in the ABS module?" But on your drive home from the mechanic, the only ABS code was C1175 - LR speed sensor fault. So it seems your ABS module was working, and the only damage was the wire to the left rear speed sensor.
My 3rd question was: "Was the ABS module damaged by the faulty repair to the LR wire?" Seems "yes" because the four error codes all appeared for the first time after the faulty repair: C1145 (RF), C1155 (LF), C1165 (RR) & C1175 (LR).
My 4th question was: "Is the damage temporary or permanent to the electronics in the ABS module?" Unfortunately it seems permanent, since these multiple ABS errors including the brake light and CEL now occur each time you start the car.
So what are your options from here:
1) Reset the ABS error codes. If the damage was temporary, this should clear it. A long shot, but worth a try.
2) Replace the ABS electronic module - not the entire ABS - just the electronic module. It's held on with six T20 screws. Match the Bosch part number on the bottom of your ABS module, likely 0 265 950 XXX. They sell on eBay for less than $100 used. For example, the Bosch part number is 0 265 950 029 for the ABS module on my 2002 with DSC. The part number for your ABS likely has a different last 3 numbers for a different model year or without DSC.
3) Have your ABS module repaired for ~$95 - $110. Several eBay vendors do this. If it can't be fixed, the diagnostic fee is minimal. Search eBay for "bosch 5.7 abs repair"
Good luck, and let us know the outcome.
Last edited by dwclapp; 05-07-2018 at 06:20 PM.
#6
05-10-2018 | 05:31 PM
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piroboot: To read ABS error codes, I use an Autel AL619 scanner.
My initial question was: "Maybe your mechanic installed the new front bearing backwards?" But there were no front wheel ABS errors during the drive home from the mechanic, so he must have installed the bearing correctly, with the magnetic side facing the ABS sensor.
My 2nd question was: "Maybe the crushed wire to the rear ABS sensor somehow damaged the electronics in the ABS module?" But on your drive home from the mechanic, the only ABS code was C1175 - LR speed sensor fault. So it seems your ABS module was working, and the only damage was the wire to the left rear speed sensor.
My 3rd question was: "Was the ABS module damaged by the faulty repair to the LR wire?" Seems "yes" because the four error codes all appeared for the first time after the faulty repair: C1145 (RF), C1155 (LF), C1165 (RR) & C1175 (LR).
My 4th question was: "Is the damage temporary or permanent to the electronics in the ABS module?" Unfortunately it seems permanent, since these multiple ABS errors including the brake light and CEL now occur each time you start the car.
So what are your options from here:
1) Reset the ABS error codes. If the damage was temporary, this should clear it. A long shot, but worth a try.
2) Replace the ABS electronic module - not the entire ABS - just the electronic module. It's held on with six T20 screws. Match the Bosch part number on the bottom of your ABS module, likely 0 265 950 XXX. They sell on eBay for less than $100 used. For example, the Bosch part number is 0 265 950 029 for the ABS module on my 2002 with DSC. The part number for your ABS likely has a different last 3 numbers for a different model year or without DSC.
3) Have your ABS module repaired for ~$95 - $110. Several eBay vendors do this. If it can't be fixed, the diagnostic fee is minimal. Search eBay for "bosch 5.7 abs repair"
Good luck, and let us know the outcome.
My initial question was: "Maybe your mechanic installed the new front bearing backwards?" But there were no front wheel ABS errors during the drive home from the mechanic, so he must have installed the bearing correctly, with the magnetic side facing the ABS sensor.
My 2nd question was: "Maybe the crushed wire to the rear ABS sensor somehow damaged the electronics in the ABS module?" But on your drive home from the mechanic, the only ABS code was C1175 - LR speed sensor fault. So it seems your ABS module was working, and the only damage was the wire to the left rear speed sensor.
My 3rd question was: "Was the ABS module damaged by the faulty repair to the LR wire?" Seems "yes" because the four error codes all appeared for the first time after the faulty repair: C1145 (RF), C1155 (LF), C1165 (RR) & C1175 (LR).
My 4th question was: "Is the damage temporary or permanent to the electronics in the ABS module?" Unfortunately it seems permanent, since these multiple ABS errors including the brake light and CEL now occur each time you start the car.
So what are your options from here:
1) Reset the ABS error codes. If the damage was temporary, this should clear it. A long shot, but worth a try.
2) Replace the ABS electronic module - not the entire ABS - just the electronic module. It's held on with six T20 screws. Match the Bosch part number on the bottom of your ABS module, likely 0 265 950 XXX. They sell on eBay for less than $100 used. For example, the Bosch part number is 0 265 950 029 for the ABS module on my 2002 with DSC. The part number for your ABS likely has a different last 3 numbers for a different model year or without DSC.
3) Have your ABS module repaired for ~$95 - $110. Several eBay vendors do this. If it can't be fixed, the diagnostic fee is minimal. Search eBay for "bosch 5.7 abs repair"
Good luck, and let us know the outcome.
Awesome first off thank you very much for all the great info. so I managed to pull out the module and this is the part code on it 0265950065 .The last few characters are different than yours just to confirm I would need that specific code correct? Looked on eBay seems that the one you pictured is for sale but this one I cannot find I guess best bet would be to have it repaired unless you may know of another place I can check. Regardless I just wanted to say thank you. If I manage to fix it I will post back.
#7
05-10-2018 | 06:51 PM
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Houston, TX
piroboot: Happy to help. Yes, 0265950065 (aka 0 265 950 065) is the Bosch part number for your ABS electronic module.
There's another Bosch ABS part number on your hydraulic module, the aluminum block still in your car with six metal brake lines attached. That part number, stamped on the top of the aluminum block is 0 265 225 XXX. For my 2002 with DSC it's 0 265 225 067. The last 3 digits on yours are different. Try searching eBay for your hydraulic ABS part number. Some auto recyclers list the ABS hydraulic part number 0 265 225 XXX because they can read the top of the aluminum block, but can't see the part number out of sight under the electronic module.
Otherwise, ABS repair services on eBay charge ~$100. If they can't repair it, they'll tell you, charge a nominal diagnostic fee, and you can continue watching eBay for a used ABS module matching your part number.
Good luck.
There's another Bosch ABS part number on your hydraulic module, the aluminum block still in your car with six metal brake lines attached. That part number, stamped on the top of the aluminum block is 0 265 225 XXX. For my 2002 with DSC it's 0 265 225 067. The last 3 digits on yours are different. Try searching eBay for your hydraulic ABS part number. Some auto recyclers list the ABS hydraulic part number 0 265 225 XXX because they can read the top of the aluminum block, but can't see the part number out of sight under the electronic module.
Otherwise, ABS repair services on eBay charge ~$100. If they can't repair it, they'll tell you, charge a nominal diagnostic fee, and you can continue watching eBay for a used ABS module matching your part number.
Good luck.
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#8
05-11-2018 | 04:40 PM
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piroboot: Happy to help. Yes, 0265950065 (aka 0 265 950 065) is the Bosch part number for your ABS electronic module.
There's another Bosch ABS part number on your hydraulic module, the aluminum block still in your car with six metal brake lines attached. That part number, stamped on the top of the aluminum block is 0 265 225 XXX. For my 2002 with DSC it's 0 265 225 067. The last 3 digits on yours are different. Try searching eBay for your hydraulic ABS part number. Some auto recyclers list the ABS hydraulic part number 0 265 225 XXX because they can read the top of the aluminum block, but can't see the part number out of sight under the electronic module.
Otherwise, ABS repair services on eBay charge ~$100. If they can't repair it, they'll tell you, charge a nominal diagnostic fee, and you can continue watching eBay for a used ABS module matching your part number.
Good luck.
There's another Bosch ABS part number on your hydraulic module, the aluminum block still in your car with six metal brake lines attached. That part number, stamped on the top of the aluminum block is 0 265 225 XXX. For my 2002 with DSC it's 0 265 225 067. The last 3 digits on yours are different. Try searching eBay for your hydraulic ABS part number. Some auto recyclers list the ABS hydraulic part number 0 265 225 XXX because they can read the top of the aluminum block, but can't see the part number out of sight under the electronic module.
Otherwise, ABS repair services on eBay charge ~$100. If they can't repair it, they'll tell you, charge a nominal diagnostic fee, and you can continue watching eBay for a used ABS module matching your part number.
Good luck.
one last thing I have found a few places that have the pump and module together they keep telling me that the abs module is programmed with the pump, if they have the same pump and module as what my car has i should be able to take the module off the complete unit they sell me and simply swap it correct?
i want to be careful because i recall on another post something about having to bleed brakes if you touch the pump. im hoping its just a simple swap with no need for re-programming the module.
#9
05-12-2018 | 10:25 AM
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From: Houston, TX
And "no", you won't need to bleed the brakes after you swap the ABS electronics module. Your existing / old ABS hydraulic module can stay in the car when you swap the ABS electronics module. So you won't disconnect any brake lines or leak brake fluid from the hydraulic module, and there's no need to bleed the brakes when finished.
Let us know the outcome.
#10
05-12-2018 | 05:13 PM
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Houston, TX
piroboot: Your question got me thinking about when do ABS modules need to be programmed? After swapping my ABS electronics module, I did not reprogram it and it works better than the original - without the ABS warning light and error codes.
Was I lucky, or is this typical? I searched the X-Type workshop manual and found the last step after replacing the ABS electronic module is "Reprogram the ABS module, using the Jaguar approved diagnostic system."
Replacement parts in shop manuals are out-of-the-box new, not the recycled parts we use. So is programming never or sometimes required for a used ABS electronics module? All I say is I did not reprogram mine and it works properly. Hopefully you have the same experience. Matching the Bosch part number ensures the donor car is most like yours in age, and I assume programming as well.
Perhaps another forum member can enlighten us.
Was I lucky, or is this typical? I searched the X-Type workshop manual and found the last step after replacing the ABS electronic module is "Reprogram the ABS module, using the Jaguar approved diagnostic system."
Replacement parts in shop manuals are out-of-the-box new, not the recycled parts we use. So is programming never or sometimes required for a used ABS electronics module? All I say is I did not reprogram mine and it works properly. Hopefully you have the same experience. Matching the Bosch part number ensures the donor car is most like yours in age, and I assume programming as well.
Perhaps another forum member can enlighten us.
#11
05-12-2018 | 07:21 PM
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piroboot: Your question got me thinking about when do ABS modules need to be programmed? After swapping my ABS electronics module, I did not reprogram it and it works better than the original - without the ABS warning light and error codes.
Was I lucky, or is this typical? I searched the X-Type workshop manual and found the last step after replacing the ABS electronic module is "Reprogram the ABS module, using the Jaguar approved diagnostic system."
Replacement parts in shop manuals are out-of-the-box new, not the recycled parts we use. So is programming never or sometimes required for a used ABS electronics module? All I say is I did not reprogram mine and it works properly. Hopefully you have the same experience. Matching the Bosch part number ensures the donor car is most like yours in age, and I assume programming as well.
Perhaps another forum member can enlighten us.
Was I lucky, or is this typical? I searched the X-Type workshop manual and found the last step after replacing the ABS electronic module is "Reprogram the ABS module, using the Jaguar approved diagnostic system."
Replacement parts in shop manuals are out-of-the-box new, not the recycled parts we use. So is programming never or sometimes required for a used ABS electronics module? All I say is I did not reprogram mine and it works properly. Hopefully you have the same experience. Matching the Bosch part number ensures the donor car is most like yours in age, and I assume programming as well.
Perhaps another forum member can enlighten us.
im still in search for the part number matching mine ill give it a whirl and report back. I do agree that if the parts match then the software on them should be relatively compatible if not even newer with quirks worked out.
#12
05-12-2018 | 11:03 PM
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#13
05-13-2018 | 01:02 PM
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From: Houston, TX
Thanks Dell. Yes, this is one of several eBay vendors who repair ABS modules for $95 - 110 (some $150+). Search ebay for "bosch 5.7 abs repair". If they can't repair it, they inform you and charge a minimal fee, basically shipping.
From what I've read, these Bosch 5.7 ABS modules were installed on many BMW's, Audi's & VW's, and can go bad at ~100+K miles when a wire vibrates loose or a solder joint cracks. I was tempted to open and repair mine, but Youtube videos (below) show the repair is challenging for DIY'ers.
Hopefully the problems with piroboot's ABS electronics can be repaired by one of these services, if a used module with matching part number isn't available.
From what I've read, these Bosch 5.7 ABS modules were installed on many BMW's, Audi's & VW's, and can go bad at ~100+K miles when a wire vibrates loose or a solder joint cracks. I was tempted to open and repair mine, but Youtube videos (below) show the repair is challenging for DIY'ers.
Hopefully the problems with piroboot's ABS electronics can be repaired by one of these services, if a used module with matching part number isn't available.
#14
05-13-2018 | 03:51 PM
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#15
05-30-2018 | 07:01 PM
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Replaced abs module
So I just replaced the abs module and the problem persists. I Still get all the same wheel speed sensor codes, cel, and DSC fault after I start to accelerate I also hear what sounds like sputtering sound under the hood as I accelerate (this was the case before changing the module) I think the sound is the abs engaging and after a short distance the dsc fault message appears and abs does not function and the sound goes away. I'm not sure what else to try at this point if anyone has suggestions.
Another observation I made is that there are 2 switches on my brake pedal I have always had a zip tie to hold the switches in place since my brake light would otherwise always stay on (I know having a zip tie is likely not the best solution). I'm wondering if there could be any connection to this abs issue and one of those brake switches ...
Another observation I made is that there are 2 switches on my brake pedal I have always had a zip tie to hold the switches in place since my brake light would otherwise always stay on (I know having a zip tie is likely not the best solution). I'm wondering if there could be any connection to this abs issue and one of those brake switches ...
#16
05-30-2018 | 08:21 PM
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So I just replaced the abs module and the problem persists. I Still get all the same wheel speed sensor codes, cel, and DSC fault after I start to accelerate I also hear what sounds like sputtering sound under the hood as I accelerate (this was the case before changing the module) I think the sound is the abs engaging and after a short distance the dsc fault message appears and abs does not function and the sound goes away. I'm not sure what else to try at this point if anyone has suggestions.
Another observation I made is that there are 2 switches on my brake pedal I have always had a zip tie to hold the switches in place since my brake light would otherwise always stay on (I know having a zip tie is likely not the best solution). I'm wondering if there could be any connection to this abs issue and one of those brake switches ...
Another observation I made is that there are 2 switches on my brake pedal I have always had a zip tie to hold the switches in place since my brake light would otherwise always stay on (I know having a zip tie is likely not the best solution). I'm wondering if there could be any connection to this abs issue and one of those brake switches ...
#17
05-31-2018 | 11:50 AM
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From: Houston, TX
piroboot: Hang in there. Most people give up too soon, never realizing how close they were to the solution, if they had only persisted a little longer. In frustration, they miss out of the knowledge and confidence gained from prevailing, not to mention the $'s saved.
The 2 electrical switches on the brake pedal are connected to the ABS module, the speed control module (aka cruise control) and the ECM. To rule out these switches as a potential cause of your ABS problems, check that they're positioned properly, not loose, and the plungers are adjusted to the correct length.
The part numbers are C2S3680 for the grey switch (aka brake light switch) and C2S3685 for the green switch (aka cruise control cancel). Here are some threads on replacing broken switches and adjusting the plunger length:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...3/#post1242822
X Type Brake light switch
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...9/#post1243066
For peace of mind, you can confirm the front wheel bearing was installed properly, or have the mechanic fix it if installed backwards. Remove the wheel, unplug the cable from the speed sensor at the steering knuckle, connect a multimeter to the speed sensor (small alligator clips help) and set it to millivolts AC. Spin the hub by hand and confirm the speed sensor generates a 50-100+ mV AC signal, depending how fast you spin the hub. If there's no AC signal, switch the multimeter to ohms to confirm the continuity of the speed sensor. If the speed sensor has continuity, and no mV AC signal is generated when you spin the hub, the bearing is likely installed backwards, with the magnet-side facing away from the speed sensor.
You can repeat this test on all 4 speed sensors to confirm they're working and eliminate another potential cause of your ABS issues.
FYI, prior to repairing my X-Type's ABS module, it passed the Texas annual inspection with ABS disabled, the ABS light on and "DSC not available" on the instrument cluster. The CEL and parking brake lights were off, which the inspector said was good enough to pass because the brakes stopped the car properly, including power assist. Yes, ABS and DSC provide safety margin, particularly on snow and wet roads, but are not always mandatory depending where you live. These safety features are relatively new. Not long ago "pump the brakes" was required new driver training because ABS didn't exist.
Hang in there and let us know what you find.
The 2 electrical switches on the brake pedal are connected to the ABS module, the speed control module (aka cruise control) and the ECM. To rule out these switches as a potential cause of your ABS problems, check that they're positioned properly, not loose, and the plungers are adjusted to the correct length.
The part numbers are C2S3680 for the grey switch (aka brake light switch) and C2S3685 for the green switch (aka cruise control cancel). Here are some threads on replacing broken switches and adjusting the plunger length:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...3/#post1242822
X Type Brake light switch
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...9/#post1243066
For peace of mind, you can confirm the front wheel bearing was installed properly, or have the mechanic fix it if installed backwards. Remove the wheel, unplug the cable from the speed sensor at the steering knuckle, connect a multimeter to the speed sensor (small alligator clips help) and set it to millivolts AC. Spin the hub by hand and confirm the speed sensor generates a 50-100+ mV AC signal, depending how fast you spin the hub. If there's no AC signal, switch the multimeter to ohms to confirm the continuity of the speed sensor. If the speed sensor has continuity, and no mV AC signal is generated when you spin the hub, the bearing is likely installed backwards, with the magnet-side facing away from the speed sensor.
You can repeat this test on all 4 speed sensors to confirm they're working and eliminate another potential cause of your ABS issues.
FYI, prior to repairing my X-Type's ABS module, it passed the Texas annual inspection with ABS disabled, the ABS light on and "DSC not available" on the instrument cluster. The CEL and parking brake lights were off, which the inspector said was good enough to pass because the brakes stopped the car properly, including power assist. Yes, ABS and DSC provide safety margin, particularly on snow and wet roads, but are not always mandatory depending where you live. These safety features are relatively new. Not long ago "pump the brakes" was required new driver training because ABS didn't exist.
Hang in there and let us know what you find.
#18
05-31-2018 | 04:51 PM
Veteran Member
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 4,639
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From: Utah
Oh the days of rear wheel drive, monster heavy U.S. Cars, sliding on ice in the winter. "Fast pumping" the brakes (many manual - not power) in hope of stopping before *** ending the car in front of you or sliding into an intersection. Well there was that one benefit of driving like a maniac in an empty parking lot, slamming on the brakes locking the wheels, cranking the steering tight in a spin and seeing how many "donuts" you could achieve.
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