Cold Air Footwells
#1
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi everyone
Just wondering, just bought an 05 2.0Diesel xtype.
couple of things im wondering about
although i get heat from the vents, when i change foot/face it doesnt seem to change, however pressing defrost does make the AC go on and the windscreen clears.
when i am driving, although i can feel a slight warm air coming down, my feet are getting very cold.
reading around, there might be a couple of reasons.
can someone explain to me how to do this?i have automatic climate control (no satnav).
• Select full cooling -Lo
• Select full heating - Hi
• Back to full cooling
• Select face followed by floor
• Then select face again
• Finally select defrost
how do i select cooling - lo? is it that i turn the knob all the way down, or press the cold arrow down till its 17 degrees c?
second thing:
there is no external temperature on the lcd. does that mean my car was not fitted with one?
the battery wasnt great before i bought it. the guys charged it overnight, and it has been firing ok since. however, idling, i can see that the lcd / other lights in the cabin dim and brighten with the engine's moving.
is that normal? would the battery be causing all of this?
next thing:
pretty annoying squeak from the dashboard, passenger side when im driving. is there a way to figure out if i can easily tighten it down?
many thanks for answers. anything needing a lot of work will need a garage. resetting stuff etc, i can do.
thanks for your answers/help
Just wondering, just bought an 05 2.0Diesel xtype.
couple of things im wondering about
although i get heat from the vents, when i change foot/face it doesnt seem to change, however pressing defrost does make the AC go on and the windscreen clears.
when i am driving, although i can feel a slight warm air coming down, my feet are getting very cold.
reading around, there might be a couple of reasons.
can someone explain to me how to do this?i have automatic climate control (no satnav).
• Select full cooling -Lo
• Select full heating - Hi
• Back to full cooling
• Select face followed by floor
• Then select face again
• Finally select defrost
how do i select cooling - lo? is it that i turn the knob all the way down, or press the cold arrow down till its 17 degrees c?
second thing:
there is no external temperature on the lcd. does that mean my car was not fitted with one?
the battery wasnt great before i bought it. the guys charged it overnight, and it has been firing ok since. however, idling, i can see that the lcd / other lights in the cabin dim and brighten with the engine's moving.
is that normal? would the battery be causing all of this?
next thing:
pretty annoying squeak from the dashboard, passenger side when im driving. is there a way to figure out if i can easily tighten it down?
many thanks for answers. anything needing a lot of work will need a garage. resetting stuff etc, i can do.
thanks for your answers/help
#2
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yes for the cold arrow
Would be surprised if external temperature was not fitted
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...sor-faq-33261/
Batteries can cause all sorts of electrical anomalies
Would be surprised if external temperature was not fitted
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...sor-faq-33261/
Batteries can cause all sorts of electrical anomalies
#3
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,431
Likes: 0
Received 3,915 Likes
on
3,217 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
munzab, hopefully I can answer your questions.
When you are told to dial the controlling temp to the extremes (max hot, max cold), that is using the arrow buttons til the screen says either "lo" or "hi". This forces the temp control flapper to an extreme.
As for your external temp indication, this can be quiet a few things. This is where you may need to talk with the dealership and first see if your car was even fitted with one. I would think if it was originally fitted with one and it broke, you should see atleast the "EXT" on the screen and either dashed lines underneath or some number that is not close to what the exterior temp is.
As for the fluctuating lights, this is sounding like a weak battery or a problem with the voltage regulator in the ECU. I would first start with putting a multimeter across the battery and starting your car. After the engine catches, you should see the voltage go from around 11.5 VDC (as the car is cranking) up to around 14.5 to 15.0 VDC, hover there for a short period of time (15 seconds or so, the computer will figure out what it should be) and then ramp down to around 13.7 VDC and then remain constant (even if you start something fairly significant in the car electrically like the seat heaters or rear defroster). If the voltage is fluctuating more then 0.1 VDC, then you have an issue.
If you think you have an issue, I would first have the battery load tested at your local auto parts store. If the battery is below 75% capacity, get a new one as we have found that funny things happen when the capacity starts getting too low. If that is good, then I would recommend a shop.
Before you go to the shop, try something for me. On the headlight switch, there is the dimmer for the dash lights. I want you to press the button so the knob comes out and then I want you to run the dial up to max brightness and then down to min brightness 3-5 times. Do this in a nice, quick manner. You can do it more times, not going to hurt anything. Adjust the knob back to where you like the dash lights. Did this fix your light flickering issue. Sometimes the dimmer will build up a high resistance connection and it will cause the dash lights to flicker with bumps in the road or with vibrations from the car.
As for the squeak, to many things to possibly be wrong. I would say to get your hands on a screw driver or two (or three) and start going around and if you see a fastener, give it a little twist to see if it is loose and see if you can wiggle the stuff under the fastener to see if it can move. Unfortunately, this is one of those easter egg hunts that may be a quick fix, or may drive you bonkers trying to figure out where it is coming from.
When you are told to dial the controlling temp to the extremes (max hot, max cold), that is using the arrow buttons til the screen says either "lo" or "hi". This forces the temp control flapper to an extreme.
As for your external temp indication, this can be quiet a few things. This is where you may need to talk with the dealership and first see if your car was even fitted with one. I would think if it was originally fitted with one and it broke, you should see atleast the "EXT" on the screen and either dashed lines underneath or some number that is not close to what the exterior temp is.
As for the fluctuating lights, this is sounding like a weak battery or a problem with the voltage regulator in the ECU. I would first start with putting a multimeter across the battery and starting your car. After the engine catches, you should see the voltage go from around 11.5 VDC (as the car is cranking) up to around 14.5 to 15.0 VDC, hover there for a short period of time (15 seconds or so, the computer will figure out what it should be) and then ramp down to around 13.7 VDC and then remain constant (even if you start something fairly significant in the car electrically like the seat heaters or rear defroster). If the voltage is fluctuating more then 0.1 VDC, then you have an issue.
If you think you have an issue, I would first have the battery load tested at your local auto parts store. If the battery is below 75% capacity, get a new one as we have found that funny things happen when the capacity starts getting too low. If that is good, then I would recommend a shop.
Before you go to the shop, try something for me. On the headlight switch, there is the dimmer for the dash lights. I want you to press the button so the knob comes out and then I want you to run the dial up to max brightness and then down to min brightness 3-5 times. Do this in a nice, quick manner. You can do it more times, not going to hurt anything. Adjust the knob back to where you like the dash lights. Did this fix your light flickering issue. Sometimes the dimmer will build up a high resistance connection and it will cause the dash lights to flicker with bumps in the road or with vibrations from the car.
As for the squeak, to many things to possibly be wrong. I would say to get your hands on a screw driver or two (or three) and start going around and if you see a fastener, give it a little twist to see if it is loose and see if you can wiggle the stuff under the fastener to see if it can move. Unfortunately, this is one of those easter egg hunts that may be a quick fix, or may drive you bonkers trying to figure out where it is coming from.
#4
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
the battery wasnt great before i bought it. the guys charged it overnight, and it has been firing ok since. however, idling, i can see that the lcd / other lights in the cabin dim and brighten with the engine's moving.
is that normal? would the battery be causing all of this?
is that normal? would the battery be causing all of this?
as far as i know the battery is in use only when the engine is off... once you start the engine everything is powered by the alternator. you can even take the battery out and everything should be running.
* if i am wrong, somebody please correct me.
#5
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
A common squeak/rattle source are the windscreen vent trims on top of the dashboard. Another is when the hinged lid to the centre console storage box unlatches makes irritating noises that seem to come from much further away!
#6
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
First, all the Jaguar published wiring diagrams show an external temperature sensor fitted to automatic climate control systems. It's reading is a key part of the software algorithm. The sensor is on the righthand side of the air intakes, (as you look at them) at the front of the car and can be seen if you get down low and look up.
A common squeak/rattle source are the windscreen vent trims on top of the dashboard. Another is when the hinged lid to the centre console storage box unlatches makes irritating noises that seem to come from much further away!
A common squeak/rattle source are the windscreen vent trims on top of the dashboard. Another is when the hinged lid to the centre console storage box unlatches makes irritating noises that seem to come from much further away!
Re the squeak: i believe thats the one, on the passenger side more so than than everywhere. im hoping theres a way to try and tighten this. its annoying in an otherwise quite solid car.
Originally Posted by Thermo
As for the fluctuating lights, this is sounding like a weak battery or a problem with the voltage regulator in the ECU. I would first start with putting a multimeter across the battery and starting your car. After the engine catches, you should see the voltage go from around 11.5 VDC (as the car is cranking) up to around 14.5 to 15.0 VDC, hover there for a short period of time (15 seconds or so, the computer will figure out what it should be) and then ramp down to around 13.7 VDC and then remain constant (even if you start something fairly significant in the car electrically like the seat heaters or rear defroster). If the voltage is fluctuating more then 0.1 VDC, then you have an issue.
its just the lcd for the climate control that appears to be fluctuating. ive reset it, but the footwells still struggle. its therefore been booked in at the dealer i bought it from (second hand dealer) and he'll have a look at it.
The dimmer light thing didnt really work. The Radio's lcd is actually really weak as well. im wondering if there is something going on with that console in terms of lighting, otherwise all the functions work properly.
will know more after its been in the shop.
Just a question: on those 2.0d jags, is it normal for the engine light to only go up by about 2 measures when driving?i did 40 miles motorway this morning, and it only moved up and down around that mark. i would have thought it should have reached normal temp at some point?
no issues with driving it otherwise. it was a cold morning, 2 degrees C.
oh, and they decided to fit awful wanli's s1088 on it. such noisy crap. they are new tyres, and im not too keen to plonk a lot of money right now at it, as ive just bought the car.
#7
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It's not that unusual for the exterior sensor to fail and it's is not an expensive part to renew - it's common to a number of Jaguars and Fords. The old one just unclips and the new one can fitted in moments. It's Plug-and-Play.
The dash demister trim is easily secured with a bead of silicone sealant around the edge, then held down with a suitable weight until it dries. If you do have to take it out - but why would you? - it can be levered out with a suitable thin blade.
Diesel X Types in UK do report that they tend to run between the cold and the half way marks. Usual causes of under cooling are first the coolant thermostat followed closely by the oil cooler thermostat.
The Diesel owners on this US site are few in number as the diesel version was not marketed in the USA. The X Type diesel supremos - of whom I am not one! -can be found here:
X-Type
The dash demister trim is easily secured with a bead of silicone sealant around the edge, then held down with a suitable weight until it dries. If you do have to take it out - but why would you? - it can be levered out with a suitable thin blade.
Diesel X Types in UK do report that they tend to run between the cold and the half way marks. Usual causes of under cooling are first the coolant thermostat followed closely by the oil cooler thermostat.
The Diesel owners on this US site are few in number as the diesel version was not marketed in the USA. The X Type diesel supremos - of whom I am not one! -can be found here:
X-Type
Trending Topics
#8
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Guy-Pierre Boucher
XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 )
7
09-16-2015 05:55 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)