So am revisiting this because it has become an issue again. I need a few theories so that way I can figure out what to do.


1. Car only has trouble starting up only when its cold out, what causes this to occur? From what I remember it could be a vacuum leak. Lets just say for the sake of this post that the vacuum leak is not the reason.


2. It's like the cars idle when its cold is off, it'll start up about 1000RPMS drop down to like 500-750 and then fall under 500 and then die out. The only way I keep the car running is giving it gas, and what seems weird is that I can't give it just a little gas, I have to press the peddle down quite a bit and it revs up to about 2000 RPMS, if I let off it falls all the way down to under 500 and I have to continue to do this for about a minute or two (depending how cold) and the idle will eventually hold on its own just barley about 500 but its a very rough idle.


I noticed a noise this morning on the right side of the engine kind of like a bearing sound or like a winding noise of some sort.. anyone have any idea what that is? That is actually the first time I've heard it do that.


Its only NOVEMBER and its 10 degrees here... I am hoping to resolve this so my car can have a peaceful winter.


Thanks
James

 

I have not a clue what the noise you are hearing is. Your starting problem could be a small vacuum leak. I know you want to fix this problem yourself, but the only good way is with a scan tool to see if all sensors and parameters are correct. An engine temp sensor, for example out of spec. could cause your cars computer to think the engine is warm when it's not. So it would use a warm starting setting instead of a cold start.

 

I do have a basic car scanner that tells me the car data, OBD II scanner, it'll tell me the car data, fuel pressure, coolant temp, etc... where would I see that on my scanner if the setting is not correct? Or is that going to require probably a JTIS or advanced scanner to change that?


Thanks
James

 

I am having the exact same problem with my 2003 X-Type. It only happens when it is really, really cold, single digits on the Fahrenheit scale. Since I got a E-Type my poor X has been relegated to the driveway.

 

Yeah its very annoying. When it's warm there is no problem. It almost seems l like the idle falls too low that it doesn't keep the engine running.


For now what I am doing is just giving it gas when its about to die out..

 

I know you have an obdII scanner. They are very handy and I have one also. They however differ from the scanner the dealer has.

There is a parameter on the dealer scanner which is cold start. My at home scanner doesn't have it yours may or may not.

Anyway using cold start parameter on the GM dealer scanner, this is what appears.

This parameter displays whether the engine meets the conditions for a cold startup during the present ignition cycle. The scan tool displays Yes when the conditions for a cold startup are met during the ignition cycle. The scan tool displays No when the conditions for a cold startup are not met during the present ignition cycle. Conditions for a cold startup require the coolant temperature and the intake air temperature to be below a predetermined temperature and within a certain range of each other. These conditions must occur after the engine was warmed up to a specific temperature during the previous ignition cycle

So, leaving your car outside at cold temp. and letting a dealer scan it may point you in the right direction.

I don't work at a dealer anymore but, I do know that proper equipment is needed to trace down some problems. Or it becomes a trial and error method with sometimes expensive parts replaced without a fix.

 

Ditto on our x-type. Seems like a vacuum leak to me, I am chasing all the usual suspects and finding nothing.

 

Nox, when was the last time you cleaned the throttlebody? If it has been awhile, pull off the intake tube and spray the butterfly valve really good and make sure that you wipe the edge of the butterfly valve to get the brown coating (gum) off of the edge. Odds are, what you are experiencing is the gum is causing the butterfly valve to stick to the bore of the throttlebody and this is causing the computer to have to apply a big signal to get the butterfly valve to work and that causes it to fly open and admit a lot of air and fuel, which therefore raises the RPMs a lot. Then, as the car warms up, the gum layer gets not as sticky and the throttle body actually expands slightly, allowing things to move more freely.

If I need to go into more detail, let me know.

 

Thank you for the replies.


Thermo, I haven't cleaned it..before.
I know of the intake tube you are talking about, so inside of the intake where the intake tube there's that silver flap correct? So I need to make sure that the inside is clear of gum/gook..


What should I use to clean it?


I just want to make sure when I go in I get everything I'm supposed to..


Thanks again,
James

 

Thermo, thanks once again. I'll try that right away.


Even though it is behind the AFM I'd use something like the sensor safe CRC mass air cleaner (grey can, picture of a MAF on the front) just to keep from accidentally getting the killer carb cleaner on any sensitive pieces.

 

Nox/Wes, stop by the auto parts store and get yourself some "Throttle Body Cleaner". Pull off the intake tube and spray away. Use your finger to open up the throttle body and keep spraying. Near the end, spray some on a rag and make sure you get both edges of the throttle body (inside edge that you can see and the side that is on the inside towards the motor).

On a side note, depending on how much you use, you may find that the car will be "flooded". Do not worry, if on the first crank of the engine it doesn't want to start, return the key to the OFF position. At this point, fully depress the gas pedal and hold it there as you again attempt to start the car. With the gas pedal in this position, it will force the ECU/ECM to not admit any fuel to the engine. So, once you clear the cleaner and the engine starts to fire, ease off the gas to bring the engine to idle. You may also notice that the CEL will come on. This is "normal". After the car is started up, clear the codes and see what you have at that point.

 

Ok well I cleaned it out. What I noticed tonight was when I started my car up it started ok I'll see how it does in the morning..I had my door open and the cabin light was on..and I noticed when the RPMs dropped a bit the lights were flickering, it stopped flickering when the idle returns to normal.