As I mentioned in a different thread, I am replacing the O2 sensor on the radiator side.
I finally had the sensor out and it took a lot of effort and a O2 sensor socket. I noticed that when I leaned a little bit on the top hose with the wrench coolant came out from the location highlighted with the red arrow on the picture below. The water pump was replaced a couple of year ago and I am wondering if there should be clamp around that hose going down and it was left off?





Also, I am having trouble putting the sensor in, apparently my hand is too thick to slide it in and turn the sensor and I prefer not to cross thread it; I believe it would help a lot to remove the hose above at the yellow arrows or further away; in the picture, the sensor has the green arrow pointing to it. To do this I am going to guess I need to drain the radiator and my question is, where is the drain valve for the radiator? Do I need to remove the bumper bottom guard to get to the drain valve? I take it that you refill the radiator by returning the coolant to the reservoir.

It would also help removing the plastic piece on the front that goes to the air intake as marked with the red arrow, but the flexible hoses seem to be firmly glued to the plastic piece, any advise on how to remove it?





I REALLY, REALLY would like to get the job finished since the car is sitting on the driveway, so your help will and any advise you have will be greatly appreciated. I would particularly would like to know where the location of the coolant drain valve is and how to access it.


Thanks in advance.

 

VGT, to drain the coolant, lay down in front of the car with your head under the passenger side headlight (for the US model). If you look, there will be a 2x3" hole (or something close to that) with a white plastic plug with a large phillips groove cut in it. That is the radiator drain plug. Use a large phillips and back out out. You don't need to pull the tray underneath, but you may also find that pulling the tray will save you from having to drain the coolant as you can then reach up from underneath and possibly be able to thread the sensor in. On a side note though, if you do leave the tray in, you may want either a very big catch tray or 2-3 containers as the coolant will most likely land on the tray and then run to the corner and drain then. I don't give it any thought as I have a 15 gallon catch bin I use and it covers the 3 feet that the coolant may drain out at.

As for the hose, if you look, there is a metal band on the end of the hose and that is the "clamp". They are heat formed at the factory where the hose assembly is made. In order to get it off, I have foudn that using a dremel tool to cut the band and then using a standard hose clamp later is the only way you will get that apart.

 

Thermo if you are talking about that right clamp then you could just simply remove them with pincers. They are easy to remove and reusable.
(I don't know if pincers is the right name for that tool in english so here is a pic)

 

Thank you so much. This is exactly the information I was looking for.

As far as the vertical hose (from the top horizontal hose to the water pump???) where the coolant comes out off at the bottom when the top horizontal hose is pushed; is there supposed to be a clamp around the bottom of that that vertical hose where it attaches to what I think is the water pump?


I will get the bottom cover off and see if I can thread the sensor from the bottom. I did this about two week ago when the latch cable got disconnected, so I should be able to do it relatively quick...always easier the second time around.

Thanks again.

 

Just remember that the engine has it's coolant plumbing on top of the engine so when you use the rad drain plug you're basically just draining the rad. To drain the engine block you have to remove two plugs; real hell on the front side of the engine and absolute hell on the backside.

 

VTGBoss: A couple suggestions to ease the installation of your new O2 sensor:

1) Cut the wires off your old O2 sensor, put some anti-sieze grease on the threads, and see if you can thread it by hand a few times into the catalytic converter. It's easier to handle without the wires, and the anti-sieze grease will clean and lubricate the threads, hopefully making it easier to install the new sensor. One caveat: grease is ok on the sensor threads, but I'd avoid getting any on the new sensor itself.

2) If you have a spark plug thread chaser, see if it matches the M18 X 1.5 diameter & thread pitch of your O2 sensor. Or buy a matching chaser at a local auto parts store. They're relatively cheap and readily available. Then, clean the thread in your catalytic convert's sensor port and see if the new one screws in more easily, again with anti-sieze grease on the threads only.

Please let us know if these ideas help.

 

I believe that to remove the hose above the O2 sensor all I need to drain is the radiator, right?

 

I believe the proper name is tongue and grove pliers, but I have always called them channel locks, which is the brand of the original tool.

 

That should work.

 

3lvis, the clamp that I am talking about is the one with the red arrow pointing at it. Those are a solid band of metal that can not be removed. The ones with the yellow arrow, yes, those can be removed using the adjustable pliers (channel locks, etc).

VTG, there should be some sort of clamp whereever the hose transitions to something else. I can not think of a single spot on the car where the hose is just "pressed" on to a fitting when it relates to the coolant system (there are 2 pressed hoses, but those are for the PCV valve). So, if you don't see a clamp, get yourself the appropriately sized hose clamp and sinch it down.

 

Imagine my surprise when this morning it looked like the coolant had been leaking from that vertical hose and I had a nice puddle under the car:




Anyway, the coolant had and was slowly leaking from the area pointed by the red arrow.





It certainly seems like there should be a clamp in the location where the yellow band is. As I indicated before, the water pump was changed a year ago and I ma thinking that they just forgot to place a clamp there. I happen to have a 1-1/4 clamp like this:





That should do the trick...unless there is a reason not to, but given that it is leaking now, how can it possibly hurt?


Once the rest of the coolant was drained from the radiator and the top hose removed, screwing the sensor was relatively easy. Now, back to putting the whole shebang back together.


Thanks you all for the help. Maybe this thread will help someone else in the future.

 

WORSE NEWS!!!


I assembled all components and when I deed coolant, it came out pouring from the same place. It looks like the nipple coming into the vertical pipe probably has a crack at the edge. Is that item under the hose the water pump? If that is the case, then it probably will need a new water pump...





It looks like the clamp did not help and in fact might have made the crack worse. It sure ruined my day. If that is the pump, it was replaced within the last couple of years and it might still be under warranty...it is worth a try...
Does any one know if that items under the pipe is the water pump? Thanks.

 

That looks like the thermostat area for the upper radiator hose assembly.
I see them available on e-bay for about $120. It doesn't look like it easy to replace.

 

Yes, that's the thermostat under the red arrow. The pulley in right-side of your picture is the tensioner for the waterpump belt. Follow that skinny belt away from you, towards the firewall / passenger compartment, and you'll locate the water pump at the other end of that belt, between the black battery box and engine.

 

Dang, I guess I need to call my mechanic and see if he is interested in making a house call....probably expensive.

 

It sure is the Thermostat assembly (Part#1 on page 2) and looks like it comes as a package with the thermostat and hoses attached to the T-piece on top. Obviously the clamp had no effect and might actually made the leak worse by compressing the one piece assembly.


I found a new, original Jaguar part on eBay for $99; the dealer wants $150 for the same part.


Top Radiator Hose 2002 2008 x Type Genuine Jaguar C2S43430 | eBay





It looks like it attaches to the body with just two bolts:










The easiest way appears to be detaching the hose from the thermostat below, removing the two bolts with long extension from the bottom (might be able to get the top one from the top) and replacing the entire assembly. sounds easy on paper, I ma sure it gets more complicated. I might have to get it partially assembled so I can drive the car on the ramps to get more space; I am not sure I can do it without the ramps. This is got to be one of the worse designed thermostat assemblies; in most other cars is right at the top and it takes a couple of minutes to replace it...oh well...


Any words of wisdom and or advise would be greatly appreciated.

 

Howdy,
Check this thread..... ? https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ousing-126150/

 

Suggest this thread from someone who just replaced the same coolant lines:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ousing-126150/

 

Thanks for the links. The job seem pretty doable with not a lot of effort. I found another write up somewhere else that is pretty similar. I have the battery air filter box and all covers already off so it look like it should be fairly straight forward. Form what I read, having the right (long) extensions and swivel adapter for the socket makes all the difference. I believe I might connect the battery long enough so I can start the car and drive on the ramps; a couple of minutes should not do any damage.


I ordered the part from a Jaguar dealer in South Carolina that sell on eBay for $99, including 2nd day FedEx delivery. Hopefully it gets here Saturday and I can knock it off fairly quickly. My local dealer wanted $150 plus 9% tax, so it was a no brainer.


One thing that should be emphasized when replacing the oxygen sensor is to remove the top hose that goes to the T adaptor as this is a rigid piece that goes to the thermostat and if you nudge it like I did while trying to access the sensor, the thermostat mount (bottom of pipe) will invariably crack...like mine unfortunately did. I am sure that JB weld would also fix the problem; I have used for parts exposed to much higher pressure and always holds fine.

 

Project completed. I posted details in the Hose replacement thread listed above.


The car seems to run smoother than I remember and it could be the new O2 sensor or just wishful thinking...maybe a little of both???


Thanks for all the help.