Hi after reading how good these Scanners are on your forum I got one from eBay to replace my clumsy old Elmscan 5 USB to Laptop type.
I sorted out a problem with the air con, thanks to your forum, working well now, but engine light then came on from time to time.
Plugged in new scanner, got codes p1111 & p1699 and then cleared them to see if they returned. Then ALL the warning lights came on, worried me so I unplugged it, lights went off and engine carried on running until I switched off.
Took scanner to computer to check data, computer did not find it, loaded cd for software & drivers, NOTHING only a PDF user manual. Became suspicious and found it had no serial number, I knew then it was a fake.
When I went to start the car she would turn over but not start.
I tried the following. New 78Ah battery, the keys are working okay, immobilizer light go's out as it should. The fuel pump ticks when ignition is turned on. Have I killed my lovely old girl ?
Please help before I lose anymore hair, sleep & money. Kaz.

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X-Type SE 2L. 2002 (added by GGG)

 

Welcome to the forum Kaz,

I've deleted your duplicate thread from General Tech Help. This is the place to post technical questions about your model for advice from members with the same model.

When you get as minute, please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.

Graham

 

I can't say "impossible" but would go for "exceedingly unlikely, try finding another reason".

 

All lights on dash can light up in case of CAN failure or short circuit.
In case of short circuit, P1642 should appear on scanner.

You had P1699 which indicates CAN bus communication error with CCM (Climate Control Module).

There is just one shared bus for all modules, and as far as I know you will not be able to start the car when ECU doesn't communicate with IC (Instrument Cluster).

Also, one failed module can affect communication between all others (for example, failing ABS module can cause climate control not working and instrument cluster go crazy!).

Now as far as I remember, Climate Control module is just between ECU and IC (if you have automatic transmission, two more computers are between them on bus).

So, the first thing I would check is CAN bus, mainly ACM. And ECU-IC communication.

Also, I would plug working and tested scanner and check for errors, as well as check all the fuses powering modules using CAN bus: ABS, ECU, ACM, IC (and two more for auto which I don't remember since I have manual).

Do you have navigation module, does it display communication error message?
Do you have message center? Does it display security failure? Or DSC failure?

 

Hi Graham thanks for deleting my thread, I will go to the New Members Area soon. Is there a PDF file on how to use this forum please.
Kaz.

 

Hi will do thanks.
Kaz.

 

Hi Sobrus.
I fixed the Climate Control Module problem before I used the new scanner. i.e. the problem with the security horn and fuse 75.
As for the scanner do you think the Autel Maxidiag Elite MD802 at £169 from Auteltool.co.uk will do the Job.
I do not have nav module.
I do have message centre but no error messages that I have seen.
Thank you for your help. Kaz.

 

Should be OK but arguably an ELM327 is better - and cheaper.

You can literally short out CAN bus, or short to battery or ground, and it will work fine when you remove the short. So an OBD tool has a tough job if it wants to cause trouble.

 

I agree with JagV8, currently I'm using about 4 year old ELM327 bluetooth interface that cost me £10. With android smartphone - free apps Piston or OBD Car Doctor Free available at Play Store.
Just not every ELM327 will work with Jaguar, because some don't support Ford protocol due to hardware board error OR lack of connection to correct pins.
Probably the cheapest ones, but anyway you will need a bit of luck.

Mine looks like this:
http://www.totalcardiagnostics.com/i...luetooth-1.jpg

I don't know what more can I help with your Jag, though.
Maybe error reader will shed some light on the problem.

Personally, if all fuses are OK, and if ELM won't point where the problem can be, I would take my Jag to local garage.

 

Hi JagV8.
Your right my 10 year old Scantool 5 has got the old ELM327 chip in it, I will look it up, Many thanks Kaz.

 

Hi Sobrus.
I have had a good look on the net and going with the OBDlink MX WiFi, with the updated ELM327 variant chip, this one will support Ford protocol from ESP Automotive.com U.Ks Scantools seller, hope to get it soon. Many thanks Kaz.

 

Hi. When turning the car over is it normal for there to be such a high drain on the battery. I started with a brand new fully charged battery at 12.8 volts, turned her over for about 8 secs. and watched the volt meter drop down to 11.2v. this seems a big drop, could it be a direct short somewhere? The battery took a fair time getting back up to 12.4v after switching her off.
Car still out of action and waiting for new scanner. Kaz.

 

Using starter motor consumes huge amouts of energy over short time period.
And in every type of battery I know this means huge drop in voltage.

I would say it is normal. If it is still cranking then battery should be OK.
Your alternator will charge more for a couple of minutes after start to compensate this.

 

Hi is there any info here that can help me in this report please.
The ignition was on and the engine dead. Kaz.

 

I don't see any problems here. P1000 isn't an error and your fuel trims are all 0, but it is normal since you've replaced your battery.

 

Hi Sobrus. Thanks for having a look for me. Kaz.

 

Hi, Can some one please tell me the full line pressure for my car when the ignition is on "II" and the engine dead. Kaz.

 

Hi, The fuel pressure should be 40-50 psi.

 

Hi Sobrus.
Thanks again for going through the diagnosis report, and mentioning the fuel.
I decided to go down that route and squirted some easy start in the air intake and she ran well for 1 or 2 seconds.
Although the pump was working I cheeked the fuel line pressure and there was nothing. Halfway through checking fuel line etc. The pump stopped working, replaced the pump and its all back to normal.
I spotted on this forum a way of changing the pump by enlarging the hole under the back seat.
This is how I did it. Saved me hours of work. This is the first time I have done any serious work on a car in over twenty years.
Many thanks for your help, I certainly needed it. Kaz.

 

Great news, that your car is running again

I'm a litte surprised that fuel pump failure is not popping up any error code.
There is even fuel pressure sensor that can generate P0194 if there is something wrong with fuel pressure.

Anyway, I'm glad you've sorted it out