Hi Guys, I really need to get a solid answer to this as I'm being told lots of bits of information by different people and its conflicting.
I've got a 2.2 Diesel ford engine in my cat, its still good and strong and apart from the noisy crank and belt I've pretty much renovated everything or about to cover it.
My next big mission is to replace or renovate the UK drivers side suspension and crank pulley as there's more room when everything is out of the way, including sub frame bushes etc.
But here's the bit I'm stuck with, I've been advised to replace the crank, only with an upgraded ford version, despite other people saying replace it with an upgraded aftermarket kit, and there are loads out there, including a ford and jaguar version, prices range from £30 to £400 so its a bit baffling.
The question I have is which is the right one to go for taking into account cost, performance of the part, i.e. to stop the noise and vibration, and explain why its the right choice? I'm also trying to find out how long will an up rated pulley last and will it likely go noisy again after xxx miles?

 

Hex,
As I stated previously, if you are keeping the car get the proper "uprated" ford brand transit pulley (as used in the jag kit) , new tensioner and alternator clutch pulley, and new crank pulley cover.

If you get cheaper inferior parts like corteco etc, expect far shorter life and in the end more hassle and will cost you more.

Just wondering, why do you need to replace sub frame bushes, these rarely go ?
I did not need to touch the sub frame to remove struts or replace anti roll bar bushes.

Paul.

 

Hi Paul

I'm not sure when you changed your pulley, I've searched albeit limited until now and not had much luck in narrowing a Ford pulley down, there seems to be many aftermarket versions. If I go to Ford do I ask for a transit / Mk3 mondeo pulley using the part number?
re the sub frame
I started by having to replace a broken coil spring, and got replacements in but when I started taking it apart it escalated. Ended up basically replacing all the suspension, wishbone / ball joint with bushes, spring, shocks and strut tops, there was a fair bit of rot on the sub frame so I ground the rot off and painted didn't replace the sub frame bushes but tentatively worked around them. Id recently replaced the brakes EBCs and cleaned / painted the calipers new disks, with new cables on the back. I've also had to de-rot the joins all along the wings and body panels where the inner and outer panels meet under the wheel arch usually along the welds. Most of the work has stemmed from using local garages that aren't really experts when repairing an Xype they have left some of the under body panels off and Id not seen it in the winter, so its taken its toll. I'm now looking round to replace and renew most, and the car itself needs some TLC that I've been giving it.

The drivers side needs working on so when I take the strut out and wishbone it will give me plenty of room to go at the pulley so the plan is to do it all, including grinding sub frame clean and painting up. I've pretty much got everything except the pulley materials now, and looking to do the work in a couple of weeks, I'm doing the work outside so at the mercy of the weather. Not sure if its becoming a labour of love or insanity at the moment..

 

Hex,
The genuine ford transit crank pulley is £285 to £330 new.
Regarding aftermarket brands, Dayco brand used to have a good reputation, here is one at a bargain price https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dayco-For....c100033.m2042

Remember you will need to change tensioner and updated inner arch cover too.

Paul.

 

Thanks for that, its a big help. I'm not sure the inner arch cover is there to be honest, like I say local garages..!!

Presume Ill need longer bolts too for the new pulley?

Unsure if I'm going to try and remap the ecm on this yet, haven't seen anybody do it, or if it can be done, but LEDs are next on the agenda first.

That will start another thread...

 

The original length bolts are fine as the centre of the pulley plate is the same thickness.
Ford previously specified the original bolts can be reused 2 more times, before replacement.

It is not recommended to allow the crankshaft to turn anti clockwise due to possible cam chain jumping a tooth on the inlet camshaft sprocket.
I used an impact gun to undo the bolts, the crankshaft did not move.

I have had my 2.2d remapped, most noticeable is that the engine picks up far better at 3-4k rpm.

Paul.

 

Think Ill renew anyway thinking about it, not worth the risk of snapping.. Haven't got access to an impact gun, so will have to find an alternative to jamming the pulley as I try and get my pry bar in.

Whats its 0-60 like now after the map? Mine tends to top out at 130 mph, but I'm not to bothered about the top end as you cant really do that in many places anyhow.
Think I want to improve its low down acceleration, I tend to get decent torque around 2-3K rmp when the turbo kicks in but it flattens out over 3.5 really. Who did you get to map yours?

 

Approx 9 months ago I got a superchips Bluefin remap, as they had a deal on with 20% off.
Regarding performance i was not that impressed, torque was up somewhat, but the pickup between 3-4k revs was a lot better.

I contacted superchips and they sent me a modified map, which was far better regarding torque, but i felt top end was now lacking, so again superchips sent me another modified map.
This is the map i have been using, works well with no visible smoke in headlight behind, even when booting it, and it revs happily past 4k !

Regarding 0-60 times, i have never timed it, but i will soon be fitting an upgraded intercooler, to give it some extra insurance against excessive combustion/exhaust gas temperatures.

I have also recently bought a second x type 2.2d as a project car, it is also currently on the road, so i can compare results.
I will be doing more serious work on this car, as i have ideas to test.

Paul.

 

Interesting, I'm kind of caught between a remap and maybe a simpler idea of removing excess weight to see how that fares, but I do want to improve its acceleration. I've got a decent pick up between 2-4K really but the engine doesn't like going beyond 4K. I also get a cloud of smog when I boot her, which is handy to throw whatever's behind you into a fog, but not ideal when you look in your mirror..!!
Part of the plan is to replace the under body mouldings I'm hoping to make the car more aerodynamic that in theory will help both acceleration and the top end I'm hoping.

Be interested to see how your mods go on, I've a few ideas myself, might be an idea to compare as we go on? My daughter lives in Chester so I come over that way often too

 

Before I did any modifications, the first thing I did was to remove egr valve and inlet manifold and clean them.
Also make sure to clean the inlets of the head too.
Then full service with new oils and the 4 filters.
Then get a good quality high PEA content tin of proper engine cleaner in to a full tank of diesel.

This will give the engine a good start point for tuning after.

Paul.

 

I ended up replacing the ERG valve when I first got the car a while back, and I was in the housing a couple of weeks ago, so I know its nice and clean. I also change all filters when servicing as standard, min every 12 months. I've not gone any further with cleaning the engine yet but it does need tidying up a bit, and I'm not going to interfere with the manifolds just yet. They are on the list of improvements as I work my way round, but having to concentrate on jobs that keep the car running.
I need to check pipes round the turbo, as it is throwing some oil round there, and the cooling pipes seem to be corroding all of a sudden but I guess I'm just finding things as I dig closer into the jobs I'm already doing. I'm putting her back though as new as I'm doing it so the results are nice and satisfying. I'm looking for a pipe manufacturer / supplier I can get to make the metal pipes as they are getting difficult to find new. Ultimately my goal would be to get that little bit of extra umph when I hit the accelerator say an extra 50 bhp

 

Keep a close eye on the radiator support bar, they are very prone to rot and failure !
With your car being a 2006 model, does it have a motor controlled egr valve, or a vacuum operated valve, also did it have much crud in it ?
I am currently looking to fit a larger intercooler, as booting it up a long hill the inlet temps rise a lot, and power tapers off a bit.

Regarding boost pipes, check the intercooler jubilee clips, as the rust and break, also the map-t to egr pipe splits on the back end, as you probably know.

Paul.

 

Yes the support bar I've literally just re-fabricated, had an old wing that had a dent in so replaced and used the materials from the old wing to make the supports on ether end. The actual bar wasn't to bad once I ground all the rot off. Couldn't find a new replacement for it and the second hand ones were all in worse condition than mine so took the option to rebuild what I had. I painted all the bar, fitments and housing using HCF paint. its really firmed the front end up though and reduced noise, and improved ride, so job worth doing. All the retaining bolts were a mare to remove, all but 1 sheared.
ERG was vacuumed controlled and it wasn't in to bad condition considering it was goosed.
The engine does get hot when you push a sustained power run, but cools as quickly, I wasn't sure if this was due to the coolant system not being 100% or just the demand of the gasses. Power tends to flatten out around 4K.
Yes I've seen a clamp kit on ebay think that's going to be a quick investment so I've always got them in. Had fun with a couple of pipes there, have you tried any of the silicone coloured pipes?

 

Struggling to find a Dayco pulley for under £100, are BGA Crank pulleys any good? they come with a 5 year warranty for £50?