Differential Whining
#1
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So today I went for my first highway test drive. All fluids were topped off and the Transfer Case, Differential, and Gearbox were flushed and filled with the correct fluids. I greased the driveshaft carrier bearing as well with my grease gun & needle. I was prepared from all the reading in this forum.
Around 40 mph, a loud whine is coming from below the vehicle. Since I cut the circle for fuel pump removal in the back seat recently (still waiting for the custom cover), I can hear it from the back seat. This thing is massively loud. It goes almost quiet when around 70 mph. Anywhere around 35-60 mph and its whining pretty bad.
Any guesses or answers for me? I have seen all the forums but no one really has a direct answer. If it is a differential issue, is there a DIY on how to rebuild it?
Around 40 mph, a loud whine is coming from below the vehicle. Since I cut the circle for fuel pump removal in the back seat recently (still waiting for the custom cover), I can hear it from the back seat. This thing is massively loud. It goes almost quiet when around 70 mph. Anywhere around 35-60 mph and its whining pretty bad.
Any guesses or answers for me? I have seen all the forums but no one really has a direct answer. If it is a differential issue, is there a DIY on how to rebuild it?
#2
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#4
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Anytime the vehicle is in a drive gear and accelerating it will make this noise and the noise pitch changes as i decelerate. While idling and revving the engine there is no noise. Only when rolling while in gear at 35-60 mph is where it starts to "shine". All of my wheel bearings are literally a week old. And they were loud as well. This is strictly a whine.
I don't believe it is a fuel pump noise as the fuel pump is rather quiet and the fuel filter was replaced. I think I replaced said fuel pump 3 weeks ago. The noise I am talking about is heard over my blower motor blowing air.
From what I have just read online, there is a possibility that I greased the carrier incorrectly as I think I didn't penetrate the bearing deep enough and just injected the rubber boot rather than the bearing. I will double check in the morning. I put enough grease where I seen the rubber boot inflate.
I don't believe it is a fuel pump noise as the fuel pump is rather quiet and the fuel filter was replaced. I think I replaced said fuel pump 3 weeks ago. The noise I am talking about is heard over my blower motor blowing air.
From what I have just read online, there is a possibility that I greased the carrier incorrectly as I think I didn't penetrate the bearing deep enough and just injected the rubber boot rather than the bearing. I will double check in the morning. I put enough grease where I seen the rubber boot inflate.
#5
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I take it wasn't making this noise before you changed all these fluids....... I know the transfer cases have been an issue, along with driveshaft and diff. You could disconnect and remove the driveshaft, then drive it. If it's still there, you can rule out the driveshaft. Question is, does it seem louder in the front, center or rear.
#6
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To be honest, it sounds like it is from the center console but since the fuel pump is exposed right now, I hear it from the fuel pump area more define. I think I will use my brother's shop and remove driveshaft and drive it.
The car drives excellent, no clunking or weird vibrating. Both sides of the propshaft have no play where they meet the yokes. Would a stethoscope be able to pin point this noise?
The car drives excellent, no clunking or weird vibrating. Both sides of the propshaft have no play where they meet the yokes. Would a stethoscope be able to pin point this noise?
#7
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I found the source of the whine. Definitely the Center Support Carrier bearing, I didn't grease it properly. Usually on this forum they speak of notches to grease it through. My bearing was sealed with a metal sleeve so first I had to take off the metal sleeve by prying it with a flat pry tool or screwdriver. Not to much as to pop it off but just a 1/4" at a time. Then I slid the needle in and greased. I kept turning the prop and greasing under the metal sleeve. I had to use a rubber mallet to knock the sleeve back into the bearing to cover it. The noise is gone but I ordered a new carrier bearing for $75 USD.
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Jag4 (03-12-2018)
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#8
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I'd be interested to see how you're going to CHANGE the carrier bearing since I don't think you can get it off without splitting the driveshaft.
Greasing the carrier bearing..... mine took grease from the side facing the rear of the car. And you put it in until you see it starting to come out the other side (the front facing side)
Greasing the carrier bearing..... mine took grease from the side facing the rear of the car. And you put it in until you see it starting to come out the other side (the front facing side)
#9
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I plan on taking the prop-shaft off the rear and removing the nut on the prop. Then sliding the carrier bearing all the way off (possibly just cut it off to save the headache. The front side is too big, only way to go so it would be from the rear (smaller diameter). Then use my large bearing splitter as a slide hammer since it has two handles. Hopefully I land on target, I think I seen a small lip that doesn't allow the carrier bearing to go too forward or the prop-shaft just might be tapered. Maybe I should do a write up lol. It sounds worse than what it should be.
If all else fails, I will remove the entire prop-shaft and press it on with my press, but I want to avoid that.
If all else fails, I will remove the entire prop-shaft and press it on with my press, but I want to avoid that.
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#13
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I searched the forum but I guess it was removed. Just go to the hardware store and get a grinder and ever so slightly cut the bearing off. You can cut a slice and then smack it with a hammer so you don't have to worry about cutting into the differential.
There is a snap ring holding the differential joint on, remove that snap ring and the joint should pull off. Remember everything that is going on will be on the small side. The new bearing slides on and you can gently tap it with a small mallet in a circular pattern. Don't forget that the bearing is oriented, the rubber boot side goes facing forward. When you get your new bearing you will see exactly what I mean. Slap some grease on the joints and reinstall the differential.
Some people disagree with everything I am saying because "balance" and "bearing damage" but I have been happy with my repair and it has been since last year June-ish. Maybe I am lucky, maybe not. I rebuilt my transfer case and differential. Then went across the country a few days later. Some people are full of it on this forum. All my write-ups are deleted and a member also took me for a couple bucks for parts I never received. It's all good though. I am enjoying my car.
Holler if you need some more help.
There is a snap ring holding the differential joint on, remove that snap ring and the joint should pull off. Remember everything that is going on will be on the small side. The new bearing slides on and you can gently tap it with a small mallet in a circular pattern. Don't forget that the bearing is oriented, the rubber boot side goes facing forward. When you get your new bearing you will see exactly what I mean. Slap some grease on the joints and reinstall the differential.
Some people disagree with everything I am saying because "balance" and "bearing damage" but I have been happy with my repair and it has been since last year June-ish. Maybe I am lucky, maybe not. I rebuilt my transfer case and differential. Then went across the country a few days later. Some people are full of it on this forum. All my write-ups are deleted and a member also took me for a couple bucks for parts I never received. It's all good though. I am enjoying my car.
Holler if you need some more help.
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Jag4 (03-14-2018)
#14
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Jag4 (03-14-2018)
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