Disc replacement on X type
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Hi All sorry if this has been covered before but i need to replace the front discs and pads on my 2.5 x type as the dealers need mega money for doing this, could some kind person give me a few pointers please or a link to a thread that it covers.. thanks in advance Ken.
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Ken, replacing rotors on this car is easy. The fronts are the easier of the two ends of the car. So, I will describe this.
-lift the corner or end of the car into the air to remove all weight off of the tire(s), ensuring to have the wheels left on the ground blocked (prevents the car from rolling) and release the e-brake.
-remove the wheel from the car.
-using a 13mm wrench, remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper to the caliper mount.
-use a pry bar or large screw driver to remove the caliper from the mount. Remove old pads
-tie the brake caliper up and out of the way using some string or nylon tie straps. DO NOT!! let the caliper hang by the rubber line.
-use a 15mm wrench to undo the 2 bolts holding the caliper mount to the spindle of the car. Set the mount off to the side.
-rock the rotor back and forth and remove the rotor from the vehicle. Use of a rubber mallet and PB Blaster (or any rust removal fluid) may be required to get the old rotor loose.
-install the new rotor, reattach the caliper mounting bracket.
-using a 10mm wrench, open the bleed valve on the caliper and then using a 6" C-clamp, push the piston back into the caliper. Close the bleed valve.
-install the new pads
-install the caliper on to the car and then reinstall the tire.
As for the rears, a few steps need to be added/modified:
1) before unbolting the caliper, you will need to disconnect the e-brake cable. This is done by using a prybar to manually rotate the e-brake lever some and then with a set of pliers in the other hand, pulling the cable out of the lever. From here, you will need to remove the clip holding the cable in place. This will allow you to slide the cable out of the way.
2) due to the e-brake, the pistons in the rear calipers are slightly different. Instead of simply pushing the piston back in, you will need to rotate the piston (clockwise for the driver's side and counter clockwise for the passenger side as I recall) as you are also pushing in. It will be obvious when you do it because turning it one way you will see the piston move out towards you and the other way it will simply spin and will only go in as you push. Keep in mind, there is a special $12 tool that you can pick up at any auto parts store that you can attach to a ratchet that will allow you to turn and push on the piston. Well worth the money.
Of note, after doing this, you will need to bleed the brakes to remove any air that may have been introduced when opening the bleed valves. You can push the front pistons in without opening the bleed valves, but some say this is a bad idea as it back flushes the old fluid through the ABS module and can cause damage. I haven't opened the valves for years and never had an issue. Do as you see fit. For the rear calipers, you MUST!!!! open the bleed valve. Things are too hard to try to push and twist at the same time. If you are built like Hulk Hogan, then maybe.
-lift the corner or end of the car into the air to remove all weight off of the tire(s), ensuring to have the wheels left on the ground blocked (prevents the car from rolling) and release the e-brake.
-remove the wheel from the car.
-using a 13mm wrench, remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper to the caliper mount.
-use a pry bar or large screw driver to remove the caliper from the mount. Remove old pads
-tie the brake caliper up and out of the way using some string or nylon tie straps. DO NOT!! let the caliper hang by the rubber line.
-use a 15mm wrench to undo the 2 bolts holding the caliper mount to the spindle of the car. Set the mount off to the side.
-rock the rotor back and forth and remove the rotor from the vehicle. Use of a rubber mallet and PB Blaster (or any rust removal fluid) may be required to get the old rotor loose.
-install the new rotor, reattach the caliper mounting bracket.
-using a 10mm wrench, open the bleed valve on the caliper and then using a 6" C-clamp, push the piston back into the caliper. Close the bleed valve.
-install the new pads
-install the caliper on to the car and then reinstall the tire.
As for the rears, a few steps need to be added/modified:
1) before unbolting the caliper, you will need to disconnect the e-brake cable. This is done by using a prybar to manually rotate the e-brake lever some and then with a set of pliers in the other hand, pulling the cable out of the lever. From here, you will need to remove the clip holding the cable in place. This will allow you to slide the cable out of the way.
2) due to the e-brake, the pistons in the rear calipers are slightly different. Instead of simply pushing the piston back in, you will need to rotate the piston (clockwise for the driver's side and counter clockwise for the passenger side as I recall) as you are also pushing in. It will be obvious when you do it because turning it one way you will see the piston move out towards you and the other way it will simply spin and will only go in as you push. Keep in mind, there is a special $12 tool that you can pick up at any auto parts store that you can attach to a ratchet that will allow you to turn and push on the piston. Well worth the money.
Of note, after doing this, you will need to bleed the brakes to remove any air that may have been introduced when opening the bleed valves. You can push the front pistons in without opening the bleed valves, but some say this is a bad idea as it back flushes the old fluid through the ABS module and can cause damage. I haven't opened the valves for years and never had an issue. Do as you see fit. For the rear calipers, you MUST!!!! open the bleed valve. Things are too hard to try to push and twist at the same time. If you are built like Hulk Hogan, then maybe.
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mad_mike (07-12-2013)
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2009, brake, caliper, disc, disk, front, installation, jag, jaguar, rear, replacement, replacment, rotor, type, xtype
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