Suddenly - after 16 years - my driver side window was stuck in closed position (2006 X-Type). Symptom: I "heard" that the pwr window motor gets an electrical signal (a mechanical force wants to act, but somehow it is stuck) both times: when I press window up and window down. Thus, nothing moves. The window does not come down anymore. I looked all over the net for an answer, but there was none. So, I had to investigate from scratch. Below I describe my journey of failure-finding in pictures. I found the failure and I fixed it. It would be very interesting for me to hear, if I am the only one with that specific problem, or if that problem is common, yet no one did find a solution so far... Spoiler alert: The reason for the stuck power window regulator was actually not to be found in the power window regulator. The failure was in the master power window switch (from here on short "switch")!
And on the net I could not even find any hint of how to remove that switch. After - logically - looking at the regulator for a failure first, I somehow suspected the switch anyway, and then I even found a thread in another Jag-forum from 2015, where someone apparently had the same issue, ended up buying 2 regulators, and then mentioned that it was the switch - but no further details.

So when you want to remove your power window regulator or even the motor of it for some reason, this upper part of my thread will hopefully help you, and in the lower parts I will detail how I fixed my switch.


The coins are just there as size-reference: Those 2 little 7mm long strands (in the middle), which I cut off a thin 7-strand cable, were all I needed to fix the stuck window...


This is actually a picture from when I fixed everything already, but I show it here already to point out that that little white clip in the centre need to be pushed thru the hole (by pressing it together with 2 fingers and then pushed back) to dislodge. And those 5 torx T27 screws need to be removed to remove the pwr window regulator. And to remove the inner black insulation with minimal damage only, use a heat gun.


Shown here is the connector to the regulator. To remove the connector from the regulator you need to press that point, which I indicate here with the blue tool. Note that that point will be on the far side from you, i.e. pointing to the outside of the car, i.e. this is a fully blind "operation". So: Push and pull. And after opening those 2 hex screws which fixate the glass and removing the inner and outer lib towards the glass, you can - very carefully - pull the glass UPWARDS and OUTWARDS to remove it (and place it somewhere, where it cannot get damaged.


After that you can "fold the regulator together" inside of the door and pull it out.


There it is. I should also mention that I initially thought I would have a problem in my attempt pulling the window glass out, since it needs to be pulled out by pulling it UP and OUT (and be very careful with the glass). But luckily, removing those 5 x T27 screws lowered the window JUST enough to get it out (after loosening those 2 hex-screws going thru the two silver parts on the left in the picture above.


Since I initially figured that the mechanism of the regulator is stuck somehow (and I could not see any defect parts on the regulator), I went on to remove the motor, and to remove the rotor from the stator. With the motor removed I could move the regulator down and up by hand, i.e. that was all OK.


Note those brushes (inside the circle on the lower part). Be very careful not to damage them. There are various way to re-assemble this again, but assembly is done the slow way, making sure you move the brushes temporarily back when pushing the rotor thru.


So I assembled those parts above again and holding them together I connected them to the connector on the car and tried the window UP and DOWN button (with ign. on). The motor moved each time.


I figured a bit of bearing grease cannot harm. Putting the grease into a massive syringe is my idea. This is very helpful.


Now putting the motor (with its spindle) back into the regulator is a bit tricky, coz - as it is - pushing it past the white plastic sprocket inside the area I just greased would not be possible. The trick is: Start with those latches, which will hold the window, somewhere below the top position and after carefully feeding the rotor past the brushes, push the motor and spindle carefully back into that hole. But for the last bit (as in picture above), where you cannot push the motor further, push instead those window-latches towards the top position by hand: This will automatically pull in the motor spindle!


And then put everything back into the door. So I assembled everything again and put the window back in (while the regulator was close to top position, which was possible, but made things very difficult, as it is a lot easier with the regulator half way down). Again: Think a few steps ahead not to damage the glass. So, initially my thought was that the regulator must have gotten stuck somehow, and I thought I fixed it, but no...: I did try already moving the window up & it worked great. I was very disappointed, when I realized, that I had the same problem as before: The window does not come down anymore. So I had to remove the regulator AGAIN from the door and then I realized that I did not notice a little detail before, when I tested the motor on its own: Yes, it turns for UP and DOWN, but each time in the UP direction!

Above picture: This is how to get that stator past the brushes without having to remove the PCB unit: Briefly unhinge the springs behind the brushes, but put it back on before pulling the motor in by pushing the window-holders upwards.


Above: This is how to remove the switch from the trim: three torx T10 screws! I could not find a hint anywhere of how to do it, and in the end I removed in desperation those screws, expecting to remove the back of the switch, while the switch would remain sitting in the trim of the door, but luckily the switch came out after removing those 3 screws.


I got the master power window switch out of the door trim now, opened those 6 clips and took the switch apart, which was now suspect No. 1 for the malfunction. Note: Best be very careful with the upper part of that switch unit: Do not turn it upside down after opening those 6 clips! I will show you the issue, you create, if you do that further below.


As you may already have seen on the previous picture: The blue stuff is the result of some kind of destructive corrosion. Most likely not humidity-corrosion, but I do not want to speculate any further. This corrosion on the PCB is right next to the contacts of the driver's window contacts. Thus, I was now 98% sure, that this is the reason for my problem.


I cleaned off the blue residue and confirmed that this corrosive destruction destroy a little bit of "thru-hole" contact. What you see here is a double sided PCB. It allows for complex designs in a small space. All those little holes are contacts thru to the other side. And that contact "south-east" of the "I" in "IC2" has disappeared. No more contact. I confirmed this with a multimeter.


Here you see that same hole from the other side: Third hole from the top in the centre of the picture. There should be a contact from this to that little hole just above. But it was not and this is why the motor turns into the same direction, regardless if you pull the switch up or push it down. If I had a circuit diagram I could tell you "how comes", but that way I can tell you only "because!" I the picture above I used already solder to fit those 2 strands of wire shown in the very first picture.


This is again the same picture as the one before last (180 degree rotated), and here I already positioned those 2 little strands of wire with a pair of tweezers and soldered it to the upper hole on this side...


and to the other hole (on the other side of the PCB here, where I had less space, but I had to do it here, as the contact on the other side had totally corroded away. Normally I would have solved the problem at hand now...


...but I created myself another problem: This is why I wrote before: Do not turn the upper part of the switch, after opening the 6 clips: I turned it over and over to clean it, and out came those little metal bars - and without those the switch does not work. I had to figure out of how to remove the 4 switches: From inside of the switch with 2 little screwdrivers pressing those little latches inside, while allowing space on the other side for the switch to fall out...


Here a picture of the special "medical procedure" (pushing the 2 little screwdrivers towards each other at the same time and allowing space on the opposing side for the switch to fall out...


After that you have 8 little metal bars and this above.


And I figured that this is the proper home for those 8 metal bars. Then switches back on, and clipping the upper part back onto the lower part.


And the switch back into the trim, everything back into the door and everything worked again.

So this was a job and a half, with a lot of thought put in. Let me know, if your X-Type had or has the same issue.

One thing I would like to mention: After assembling everything for the second time I thought for a moment that the issue is still not fixed: I ran the window a bit up, a bit down, and then up - and then it was stuck AGAIN in the top position, BUT that was only because I did not want to latch in the connector for the regulator fully. But then latched in, it was no problem: It worked properly. But this also means that there could be second reason for the same failure (UP and DOWN both want to move the window UP...: If the connectors does is not latched in properly, or obviously, if one specific pin of the connector is corroded....

PS: Important addition regarding preventing glass damage: You might have noticed on my pictures that I placed a bit of gray sticky tape around the lower ends of those two brackets (of the regulator), which hold the window-glass in place. This is to ensure that during the installation of the regulator in the door part of that bracket does not dislodge so that consequently the glass would fall thru when trying to lower it into it later. And when you then successfully lowered the glass onto those brackets (while the regulator is a bit above half-closed position - this is where it is easiest), you can then insert those 2 hexagonal little bolts into those brackets loosely. Then I drove the window up to the top and tightened those hex-bolts, BUT carefully! Not TOO tight! I am convinced that it would be possible to crack the glass by applying too much torque.