2003 AWD 2.5L Jaguar X-Type with only 44k miles on the odometer. Passenger front door does not lock/unlock neither with the key fob nor by locking/unlocking the driver's door with the handle inside or with the key itself from outside. Passenger's handle inside can lock/unlock all doors, including the passenger's. What can be broken?

 

I do have the exact same issue on my latest purchase a few month ago (2004 AWD 2.5L).
I solved the issue partially - but still the occasional problem.
What I did: I opened the passenger door (using the passenger lever), sprayed silicone into the locking mechanism and then opened and closed the door mechanism many times (after opening the door, I "closed" the open door with a rod (a Philips head screwdriver) by pressing the mechanism shut, open it again with the outside door-handle, and so on. Also, I opened and closed the system many times with the open door in "make-believe" that it is closed via the passenger lever inside. And In that same arrangement I opened and closed the system many times with the remote until it finally opened the lever inside, i.e. remotely unlocked the door.
Well, that way I got it working... - but from time to time the passenger front door still does not open remotely...
So if you find out what it is I am missing, let me know.
When I have more time I might remove the inner panel in search of a door module (do not know, if there is one) and I would try to open it in search for a cold weld soldering point... - or some cable somewhere with damaged insulation...

 

Thank you for sharing that Peter.

I tried spraying some WD40 into the lock itself, but it already had some lubrication on it and it does not look like it is having difficulties there. To me it looks more like the device itself is not receiving the signal to lock itself from the central locking system, since there is no sound coming from it trying to move the mechanical parts, like it is with the other doors. Even when doors are open and you press the unlock button, there is usually a sound coming from the lock - in the case of this passenger door there is no sound at all.

I plan to bring the car to a mechanic who will hopefully be able to figure out whether it is the wires that are faulty or the actual device - if anyone has any advice on how to do that myself, I would much appreciate it.

 

There is a good chance that I have the same issue as you, I just tried a little bit longer what opening and closing this rod (screwdriver) and remote. And at those occasions, when it falls back into the condition, where the remote does not want to open the passenger door anymore, I also do not have the "sound coming from it trying to move the mechanical parts"... Hence my suspicion of a cold weld (soldering point) or cable damage.

> I plan to bring the car to a mechanic ...
I go to a mechanic only, when it is mandatory, i.e. for the rego-check, which I am not allowed to do myself (I could, though... ).
But I currently do not have the time to look further into THAT issue with the door-lock, as all my working space is currently covered with all the interior parts of THAT X-Type (carpet, headliner, frt. & rr. seats, plastic covers, drv. side door trim), as I cannot put anything back into the car, before I have not finally tinted my backlite (= rear window), which should not have been a big drama, but it is, as it just does not seem to work with 2Mil thickness tinting foil, as this is just crap, and buying 4Mil foil seems to have been made very hard on purpose to ensure that people go to a tinting shop to have it done, where it costs AUD250 for just the backlite tinted. Tomorrow I will go hunting 4Mil tint.

I see that your name here is Jagasiratorsensor, i.e. Jag-aspirator-sensor, but my first thought was Baba Yaga, also spelled Baba Jaga, which is a witch, which lives in a house, which stands on chicken legs...

 

Sounds like you should be checking for a open circuit locking actuator solenoid.
There have also been some instances that the "micro switches" embedded in the door latch mechanism have become intermittent.

If your car has double locking capability, in the passenger front door there are up to 4 micro switches, two for steering the Actuator direction, another one for lock and another one for unlock.
If you have a non-double locking capable car, there are are only two micro switches (lock and unlock) and the solenoid is driven directly without any steering micro switches (which means you can take a direct coil reading from the door loom without passing through any other switches).
If you haven't already done so, download an electrical schematic for your car and then check out figures 12.1 and 12.2 in the wiring schematics (around page 103) to understand the subtle differences in the door latches.

If it is a switch, I recall another member doing a post write up on replacing the embedded switches and giving a RS part number for a practical switch replacement. So you might want to search for that thread/post to get some pointers.

 

Thank you, Mark. I assume "double locking capability" is, where I have to press the remote once to open the driver's door and then press the remote again to open the passenger door as well!? Yes, I have that capability in that X-Type (which was rather annoying), which is why I already went thru the procedure to disable this double locking feature to make it "normal", which however still means that my car has the "capability" and as such I would have all those unnecessary micro switches, which you describe - and there is a good chance that one of those unnecessary switches fails from time to time...
I hope those micro switches are accessible... I worked on switches (switch design) professionally - a failed switch or a switch, which fails from time to time, would be one, with corroded contact-surfaces - and sometimes the problem is solved just by taking care of this contact surface contamination...

PS: the fact that I at least massively improved on the issue, when I sprayed initially WD40 and then silicone spray into the locking mechanism would support the micro-switch-contact-surface-contamination-theory, as some of the spray may have reached the contact surface...

 

I replaced the whole locking mechanism and the locking now works. A used genuine part cost me £20 here in the UK.

At first I disconnected the two bundles of cables that slot in at the bottom and connected them into the new unit. Checking with the key unlock button I had a clicking sound on the new unit, which was missing on the old unit. Replaced and remote lock/unlock features work as before, albeit requires some lubrication as the replacement looks dried out and works not as smoothly.

I am not sure if I can fix the old unit myself, but will investigate. It would be good to fix it and put it back, to keep the car as original as possible.

 

Well done. I am still busy with my other issues on the car, but my door-lock-mechanism issue has worsened meanwhile: Before is did not open sometimes, Now it is not possible at all to lock that door. Where did you find the locking mechanism for your car and was it new or used?

 

I found it on ebay, used. It is easy to change, so go for it. Remove the door card, peel off a corner of the shield that is attached to the door with a sticky substance, unscrew the device, detach the cables and wires, change to a new one, put the door card back.

 

Yes, I know it's easy - the tricky part is to get a mechanism for 20 Pounds...

 

After having wasted ANOTHER day attempting to tint my rear window (which is not possible, because the Australian-Tinting-Service-Shop-Mafia and their suppliers are ensuring that the tinting foil, which they are using is not purchasable for anyone, while anyone has the choice of a whole range of utterly unfit-for purpose tinting foils), I quickly removed the door lock mechanism from my frt. left door. Pretty crappy part that is. I removed the 3 bolts, but there is no way I can see to take that thing apart, but I noticed that a bit of plastic is broken off. Hence, I need to find a new door lock mechanism somewhere. I don't suppose anyone knows, if all versions of the X-Type use the same mechanism, or what the Ford P/N for that part is?

 

Peter,

Looks like there are 4 variants depending on VIN and also whether you have deadlocking or not.

 

Thanks Mark,
I tried meanwhile a lot of Australian wreckers specializing in Jaguar X-Types. No luck. The only chance seem to a parts form overseas via ebay - huge postage costs.... I wrote yesterday that I do not see a way of how to open that door lock mechanism - well, sheer desperation was the reason as to why I actually found a way to open the mechanism. I'll write more later - I am currently putting the mechanism back into the car. I am kind of hopeful that I fixed it.

 

Did you happen to confirm a part number of your assembly?
There are a couple of X-Types being advertised as being wrecked locally here, so if you end up needing a door latch let me know and I can see what is available here.
The postage will hopefully be a lot more reasonable just going across the ditch.

 

Thanks Mark. I fixed mine. The engineer in me was "at work" again...
For all details, see:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...1/#post2653390

 

Peter, impressive writeup. I will try to fix mine then, as well. Many thanks.

The used part which I replaced fixed the original issue but it refused to open ~30% of time using the handle outside, which my original part never did have a problem with. I applied some of the WD40 white grease to the latch and it seemed to improve after a while. However, I hope I can recover the original part, which is actually dated 2003 as the car itself (whereas the replacement is tagged with 2001).

By the way, my nick name comes from the first post about the aspirator sensor inside the dash I made in this forum. I never managed to fix that, it is still buzzing very loudly.

Thanks

 

> The used part which I replaced fixed the original issue but it refused to open ~30% of time using the handle outside

Do you mean that the remote refuses to open 30% of the time, or that - after the remote unlocked - the outside handle does not open the door?
If latter is the case, I assume that you latched in the rod coming from that handle in a wrong position, which should be fixable by puling that white lid, as shown in the last few pictures in my thread, to re-adjust the rod - or if the issue is that that rod actually slips inside of that catchment (due to just another plastic part failing) I'd put a little bit of black silicone (not greasy silicone spray, but roof and gutter silicone) into that catchment, arrest the rad in the correct position and wait for the silicone to dry.

 

@ Mark: Thanks again for offering to have a look, if you can find that part on your end (across the ditch). But not necessary at this stage.
But:
It would have been around 1995 that I did a big trip across NZ. And when walking the streets - I think it was in Auckland - I spotted a red E-Type in a good condition standing in a backyard with a for sale sign - it was 8 or 9k (NZ$)! You can send me this one...

 

Just a note: I have been busy and I added NINE PS-notes to my original thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...1/#post2653390

 

When I unlock the car with a remote, 30% of time that door with a replacement part won't open with the outside handle. It has improved after lubricating the latch.

The plastic bit actually turns and goes up and down for an adjustment without opening it, like a nut (when disconnected from the device by plugging it out of the hole through pinching the plastic that holds it in). I originally turned it a few rotations so that it went down (which increased the pull-down distance when operated with the outside door handle), but I may need to do more adjustment if it starts misbehaving.

Many thanks