Ok, I know I need six of them. But what kind should I get for my 3.0 x type? My daughter said get Bosh (sp). Are there different sizes, and types, etc? Is it ok to go to Auto Zone for them? How often should they be changed?

Thanks, guys!

 

Maybe not so dumb, I don't see a spark plug guide table in the FAQ.

If anyone has the definitive table for this model that could be included into the FAQ, please send it in.

Yes I know we can look in JTIS etc etc, but a simple MU table might help.

@ Jo, my mother, is not so good with French, and questioned why her garage changed 4 Candles!!

Spark plugs - French - bougie

Candle - French -bougie

As you can tell, she is not great mechanically LOL

We all learn form each other.

 

That's funny. I would think bougie would be the word for the headlights, not spark plugs. lol

 

Don't know off hand what the recommended replacement interval is on an X type but would imagine it's somewhere around 100,000Km like most modern cars.

As to which type to use, much like asking which beer is the best, there's a thousand opinions out there and everyone of them that agrees with my own is correct.

Since the OEM spec plugs have proven themselves to work as intended, what's to be gained by switching brands?

 

I thought I read somewhere that they should be changed at 70,000 miles, but I might be wrong. I'm at 75,000 now. As for switching brands, I don't know what's in there now. I'm pretty sure Jaguar didn't manufacture them.

 

Jo, as for when to change the spark plugs, depending on which book you read, they should be changed between 70,000 and 100,000 miles.

As for what to look for in plugs, ask for what are called "double platinum" plugs. You don't need the fancy plugs like the Bosch +4's (I've had them, no advantage in these cars) or the Splitfires (again, would provide no advantage in either mileage or power). The only "advantage" you are getting is a lighter wallet.

As for brands, if you stick with NGK, Motorcraft, or Bosch, you will be just fine. When you go to the parts store, just tell them that you have an 04 Jag X-Type with the 3.0L motor. They will be able to look up the correct plug for you. Replacing them will take just over 2 hours to do. If you are wanting to make a little trip, I can do them for you. Not that tough of a job.

Something that some people recommend, others don't is replacing the intake o-rings. New ones are like $15. They are able to be used after multiple times of tearing the intake apart, but for their low cost, they also ensure you won't have more issues in the future. That is your call. It may also be advantageous to also get what are called IMT O-rings (have to be picked up at your favorite place, the dealership). You can ask for them at the parts store, but as I recall, they don't carry them.. These are only a few bucks each and if you are going to have a vacuum leak, normally the IMT valve o-rings are where the leaks come from. I recommend changing them now as the lower IMT valve can be a little bit difficult to access with the motor fully assembled.

 

Thanks, Chris! You're a doll!

Now can you 'splain that in English? lol You totally lost me with IMT valves and O rings... and what vacuum? You're saying these IMT valve o-rings should be replaced when the spark plugs are replaced? I can order them from Nally and have it delivered to the front door, then I don't have to mess with the dealership here. (Dan, if you're reading this thread, I need some more stuff!) lol

 

Jo, as for the vacuum of the engine. Think of it this way, for air to move from one point to the other, there needs to be a pressure difference (blow air out of our mouth against your hand really hard, you can feel your breathe pushing against your hand). But, in the case of our engines, nothing is pushing the air into the engines. So, in return, the engine needs to draw a vacuum to provide that pressure difference (the vacuum is caused by the pistons moving down in the cylinders with the intake valve open). Where this can be a problem with modern day cars is the MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor, the piece the squirrels ate the wiring to) measures the air going into the engine and then based on the amount of air it is seeing, the computer puts in the correct amount of gas. Things go south on your when you have a vacuum leak as there is air being introduced downstream of the MAF. So, now there is more air than gas. This leads to the engine running lean and potential engine damage if not kept in check. The IMT valves (Intake Manifold Tuning valves-designed to alter the characteristics of the motor to help make more power at higher RPMs) are big holes on the intake and they are prone to leaking for our cars. The IMT valves are located on the top of the engine facing the passenger tire. If you see the big silver piece of the intake, you will see 2 big black disks on the side. The black disks are the IMT valves. You will see how the lower one is wedged in there pretty good.

As for the intake o-rings, the silver intake of your car (top center of the engine) is actually a 2 piece unit (you only really see the top half). The bottom half gets bolted to the engine, then the top half gets bolted to the bottom half. This is done to make working on the engine easier after installation. But, like I mentioned above, if you get a leak here, it can lead to problems with the engine.

If you talk with the guys at Nalley, tell them that you need the following parts:

-two IMT valve o-rings
-1 kit of the intake manifold gaskets

If they ask any questions about the intake manifold gaskets, tell them you need the ones between the upper and lower manifold halves, not the ones between the intake manifold and the heads. They should know which ones you are talking about.

But, like I mentioned, do you have to change these gaskets, no. But, now is a good time to change them.

I will make you car smart yet. He he he he he. I can see it now, Jo covered in grease up to her elbows, looking like she is going to war with an indian tribe, laughing up a storm because of having fun.

 

Thanks, Chris. Holy crap. I still have to do the cabin filter change. lol The weather's nice today so I'll do that and start a shopping list of spark plugs, rings, gaskets, filters... I still don't know how many filters it has and where they all go. The air filter, I know, and I've done that. I was so proud of me! lol

It's a maf sensor? I thought it was a map sensor. I walked out the back door of my office one day last week and a squirrel was sitting there looking at me. They're stalking my car! lol

Today's throttle body cleaning day. Oh boy... I'm thinkin' it would be easier to buy a horse. He could hang out in my backyard. lol I can just see my neighbor cleaning her pool, and a horse's head pops up over the fence. roflmao! Somehow, I don't think she'd be surprised... especially after the little incident with all my dogs swimming in her pool. lol

 

Jo, MAP sensor, MAF sensor, 6 of one, half a dozen of another. They are the same thing. I call it a MAF sensor since that makes more sense to me.

As for filters in the car, lets see:

-Fuel filter (passenger side under the car, near the seam between the front and rear doors)
-Air filter (you've found this one)
-Ventilation filter (passenger side, just in front of the windshield, hidden under the black plastic piece there at the base of the windshield).
-Tranny filter (inside the tranny)
-oil filter (passenger side almost at the center of the car, between the radiator and the motor, accessed by reaching from underneath the car)

That is about it when it comes to filters.

As for the squirrels, I have told you my feelings on how to make them run in fear. Your call.

 

70K miles sounds about right. With respect to type or brand, don't be swayed by glossy advertisments that boast more HP or better fuel consumption. It's all hype.