Hello, I need help finding which code is the main issue so I just reapaird a coolant leak I was having on my car 2004 xtype it was a inlet water pipe
needed replacing and now the car runs but there is a engine light on and It gives me 18 error codes. I am not sure which of the codes is the main one
the codes relate to each other in some way, also could it be possiable that the codes that say circut Low input CLI is beacuse the battery I have is dead its at like 8v or smt
when I want to start the car I have to jump it. these are the all the codes I am reading

P1647
O2 sensor control chip
bank 2 severity 2 of 3

P0102
Mass or volume air flow
sensor circuit low input

P0112
Intake air temperature sensor 1
Circuit low input

P0117
Engine coolant temperature
Circuit low input

P0122
Throttle/pedal position sensor A
Circuit low input

P0182
Fuel temperature sensor A
Cli

P0193
Fuel rail pressure sensor high
Input

P0222
Throttle/pedal sensor B
Cli

P0560
System voltage

P1108
Map sensor high input

P1224
Electronic throttle control
position error

P1229
Electronic throttle control
circuit

P1532
Intake manifold communication
control B circuit malfunction

P1549
Variable induction system 1
Low/high input

P1638
CAN Link ECM/INSTM
Circuit/Network

P1000
OBD systems readiness test
Not complete

P1549
Variable induction system 1
Low / high input

P1647
Linear o2 sensor control
chip bank 2




Jaguar Oem enhanced memory
B1260
Definition not available

B1582
Definition not available

@Thermo would you have to have any idea on this issue?

 

Sometimes the OBDII reader puts a B instead of a P in the ECM codes.

P1260 is KEY not recognized.
P1582 is telling you that ENGINE DATA is recorded and 37 frames of info is available if you have the correct diagnostic equipment.(WDS or IDS)

I would read, print and CLEAR ALL DTCs then drive until a fault is detected to see what is ACTUALLY wrong instead of things that might have happened in the past but were not erased.

 

So i should earse all the codes basically and wait till the light cimes up again?

 

Yes. Also, delete the words "control chip".

If no MIL with code occurs, look for pending codes & unset OBD monitors.

Be sure to check your battery as a lot of codes at once can be low power.

 

+1 as to motorman's suggestion........Note all the existing codes so you have a record of them, then erase all the codes to start with a clean slate.
Then wait to see if or what re-emerges as current issues with the car.

Note: these cars absolutely hate bad batteries and will throw up many random faults due to a low battery voltage.
So put a new battery in first (don't go shanking around with a bad battery that you have to jump start the whole time......you'll just get crap random data appearing).
Also check the condition of both your battery leads (+ve and -ve) for possible corrosion under the wire insulation (a common issue for our cars) that causes weak cranking and low system voltage during high current draw, then fire her up to see how she behaves.

Good luck.

 

controll chip thats what the scanner is telling me what the code means or like it has smt to do with it
i am going to erase all the codes get a new battery tm and see

 

I just earsed the code P1647 and all the other codes went away except for P1000 which says OBD Systems Readiness test not complete
what does that mean? what should be the next steps? @h2o2steam any ideas

 

That is a normal code for when you may have cleared the ECM and the emission control system tests have not completed.
Drive the car normally, take it out on some runs and it hopefully will start to tick off some of the test parameters with normal driving.
There are some specific driving processes you can do to assist if it doesn't clear itself in a reasonable time and you have to try to pass local emissions testing.

Have a read of some other posts that discuss P1000, but it is not a fault per say, just a pending code.

 

Ohok, but how come all yhe other codes got earsed when i did the first one? Also How do i pass local emissions test?

 

There is just "clear all codes" even if a tool doesn't mention that.

It will also undo P1111 (which you want) and cause P1000 (on some/many Jaguars, Fords and probably other Ford-stable cars).

It also clears all the OBD monitors (thus the P1000) but smog tends to need most/all set so you will have to do varied driving (or drive cycles) and see if they set again. If not you'll have to diagnose why.

BTW in future don't erase codes, or at least not without serious thought. A fix will get the car to stop flagging the code (after 4 warm ups) & turn off the MIL and smog would be OK.

 

HELP, I would say to get the battery back to 100% with a recharge or it may be possible that the battery is hurt and you simply need a new battery. Replace the battery by disconnecting both cables without using a memory maintainer. You want the car to go electrically "cold". Ie, has no power anywhere. Then with a fully charged battery, see what codes you have then. A lot of these codes could be because your reference voltage is off due to the low overall system voltage. Then re-post what error codes you have then.

 

@Thermo @h2o2steam I got a new battery and had the car runing for around 15mins and a day after that I got a
\simple scanner and know I am only getting 3 codes 2 of which are the same

p1647 malufacution control p1000 malufacution control p1647 malufacution control

I searched up P1647 says it is for o2 sensor, but i am not sure which one it is also any easy way on checking if its the
sensor or the wiring that is messed up?

and for the P1000 like you guys said that means it is saying there is still pending codes or smt how do I check them?

 

Bank 2 upstream O2 sensor.
So the upper (pre Cat) sensor between engine and radiator.

In all likelihood the heating element has gone open circuit.
Simple meter test: when you disconnect the 4 pin plug to that sensor you should be able to measure a low resistance of 1-2 ohms between the two black wires to the sensor if the heater is still good. If it is bad then you will have high resistance.

 

@Thermo so I unpluged the o2 sensor plug and checked it and it shows 1, when I touch my leds together it gives me a .6 ohms reading which tells me my ohms reading is working.
so ig this means that the heater is still good?

 

That would indicate the heater element of the HO2 sensor is likely intact.
Note: There are two sensors for each bank, upstream (pre cat) and downstream (post cat). Just double check you were measuring the correct one.
Double check F20 and F21 of the power distribution fuse box as those two fuses power the HO2 heaters.
Check for any issues with the wiring harness to the sensors and within the engine bay (chaffing, rodent damage etc.)

If the heater is OK and the fuse that powers it is intact, no wiring damage, then you may still have a failure of the actual sensing component of sensor assembly.
You could swap the sensor form bank 1 into bank 2 position, but the effort to do that would probably outweigh the cost of simply replacing the suspected sensor.

 

okay, but i did relaize it is not reading anyhting actually qhen i tocuh the leads it gives me a .6 ohm when i do it with the two black wires it just shows a
1 . and when i dont messure anything it shows the same thing. So would this mean it is not reading any ohms?

 

0.6 ohms with your meter leads shorted together is your actual zero ohms or short circuit (it is just measuring the very low resistance of the test leads and the meter has not fully zeroed itself).
Measuring between the black wires you are getting 1 ohm, so the heater circuit is measuring somewhere between 0.5 to 1 ohm - so that is OK.
When you have the meter probes not touching, you should be reading an open circuit or infinite ohms.

 

when i have the leds not touching anything it shows the same thing that comes up when i am touching the two black wires. @h2o2steam

 

Sorry , I misunderstood you the first time. If you are getting no resistance on that sensor then the heater element is open circuit.

If you want to verify your meter test, unplug the downstream sensor which has its connector adjacent to the upstream one you have already unplugged and test the two black wires to that sensor.
You should get a low resistance reading of measuring that one.
The sensors used for upstream are different from those used in the downstream application, so they are not interchangeable.

 

HELP, first things first, take a look at your multimeter and make sure you you are first on the correct scale. If you look at the dial, you should see something that looks like an omega (aka, an O that has feet). Some multimeters may have a number of scales that will read out as say 2M, 200K, 20K, and 2K. If this is what you have, then you want your multimeter on the lowest scale. Either one works. Next, check to make sure that your multimeter does not have the MIN/MAX function turned on. that can goof up a lot of people (even me who works with them every day). The final thing is to do the check that you did in that you should see your multimeter show a very low number when you touch the leads together (in your case you saw 0.6) and when you pull the leads apart, it should say "OL" (possibly something like "MAX"). Now, when you touch the leads of the O2 sensor, you should see it go from OL to a low value (as you touch the wires to the leads) and then when you disconnect the leads, jump back up to a high value. If you see your multimeter stay at "OL" the whole time, then the heater circuit is bad and you need a new O2 sensor (does not appear to be your case). If you are seeing the multimeter go from OL to a low value, then to some other value, you have something turned on wtih the multimeter and we need to figure out what it is so we can ensure we are getting accurate readings.