Engine codes DTC HELP
#21
HELP, first things first, take a look at your multimeter and make sure you you are first on the correct scale. If you look at the dial, you should see something that looks like an omega (aka, an O that has feet). Some multimeters may have a number of scales that will read out as say 2M, 200K, 20K, and 2K. If this is what you have, then you want your multimeter on the lowest scale. Either one works. Next, check to make sure that your multimeter does not have the MIN/MAX function turned on. that can goof up a lot of people (even me who works with them every day). The final thing is to do the check that you did in that you should see your multimeter show a very low number when you touch the leads together (in your case you saw 0.6) and when you pull the leads apart, it should say "OL" (possibly something like "MAX"). Now, when you touch the leads of the O2 sensor, you should see it go from OL to a low value (as you touch the wires to the leads) and then when you disconnect the leads, jump back up to a high value. If you see your multimeter stay at "OL" the whole time, then the heater circuit is bad and you need a new O2 sensor (does not appear to be your case). If you are seeing the multimeter go from OL to a low value, then to some other value, you have something turned on wtih the multimeter and we need to figure out what it is so we can ensure we are getting accurate readings.
#23
Your meter shows a "1" to the left of display when it is not measuring any resistance.
When you touch the probes together the meter cycles through obtaining a measurement and quickly settles on 0.5ohms.
As said before, that is the meter's interpretation of the resistance of the meter probes. In a perfect world you should get a resistance of 0.0 ohms and holding the probes together for an extended period of time the meter might auto calibrate, but for your purposes 0.5 ohms is just fine for your "zero or short circuit" resistance.
You then set about to measure the heater circuit of the O2 sensor and you get no resistance reading (just showing a "1" on the meter's left side of the display.
That is a failed sensor heater as you should be getting a measurement of probably 1 to 2 ohms showing on your meter.
If you like, unplug the downstream sensor plug and measure that......I would expect you will get a low resistance reading of a couple of ohms on the two black wires of that sensor.
When you touch the probes together the meter cycles through obtaining a measurement and quickly settles on 0.5ohms.
As said before, that is the meter's interpretation of the resistance of the meter probes. In a perfect world you should get a resistance of 0.0 ohms and holding the probes together for an extended period of time the meter might auto calibrate, but for your purposes 0.5 ohms is just fine for your "zero or short circuit" resistance.
You then set about to measure the heater circuit of the O2 sensor and you get no resistance reading (just showing a "1" on the meter's left side of the display.
That is a failed sensor heater as you should be getting a measurement of probably 1 to 2 ohms showing on your meter.
If you like, unplug the downstream sensor plug and measure that......I would expect you will get a low resistance reading of a couple of ohms on the two black wires of that sensor.
#24
Your meter shows a "1" to the left of display when it is not measuring any resistance.
When you touch the probes together the meter cycles through obtaining a measurement and quickly settles on 0.5ohms.
As said before, that is the meter's interpretation of the resistance of the meter probes. In a perfect world you should get a resistance of 0.0 ohms and holding the probes together for an extended period of time the meter might auto calibrate, but for your purposes 0.5 ohms is just fine for your "zero or short circuit" resistance.
You then set about to measure the heater circuit of the O2 sensor and you get no resistance reading (just showing a "1" on the meter's left side of the display.
That is a failed sensor heater as you should be getting a measurement of probably 1 to 2 ohms showing on your meter.
If you like, unplug the downstream sensor plug and measure that......I would expect you will get a low resistance reading of a couple of ohms on the two black wires of that sensor.
When you touch the probes together the meter cycles through obtaining a measurement and quickly settles on 0.5ohms.
As said before, that is the meter's interpretation of the resistance of the meter probes. In a perfect world you should get a resistance of 0.0 ohms and holding the probes together for an extended period of time the meter might auto calibrate, but for your purposes 0.5 ohms is just fine for your "zero or short circuit" resistance.
You then set about to measure the heater circuit of the O2 sensor and you get no resistance reading (just showing a "1" on the meter's left side of the display.
That is a failed sensor heater as you should be getting a measurement of probably 1 to 2 ohms showing on your meter.
If you like, unplug the downstream sensor plug and measure that......I would expect you will get a low resistance reading of a couple of ohms on the two black wires of that sensor.
#25
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,376
Likes: 0
Received 3,887 Likes
on
3,194 Posts
HELP, ok, like what H2O2 said, when you have your probes apart and the "1" shows up, that is how it is saying that it is seeing a resistance greater than the selected scale. Never seen a multimeter do that before, but, it makes sense in a weird way.
So, you have a bad heater in that O2 sensor and that is causing it to read erroneously and therefore needs to be replaced. If you look next to where you unplugged the upstream sensor (that had a grey plug), you will see a black plug. that is the downstream sensor. It plugs into the center of the catalytic converter there dead center of the engine, under the air box. You look down there, you will see it sticking out the side. But, really, you just need to get access to the plug which is out in the open. Repeat the same steps like you did on this sensor and you will see the difference. What was confusing me was you were saying that you were getting 1 (which I assumed to be 1 ohm), but in reality, it was your meter saying that the resistance is greater than 200 ohms (aka, heater is bad). This is why a lot of meter say "OL" (overload). This way it doesn't get confused with an actual reading or something of the like.
So, you have a bad heater in that O2 sensor and that is causing it to read erroneously and therefore needs to be replaced. If you look next to where you unplugged the upstream sensor (that had a grey plug), you will see a black plug. that is the downstream sensor. It plugs into the center of the catalytic converter there dead center of the engine, under the air box. You look down there, you will see it sticking out the side. But, really, you just need to get access to the plug which is out in the open. Repeat the same steps like you did on this sensor and you will see the difference. What was confusing me was you were saying that you were getting 1 (which I assumed to be 1 ohm), but in reality, it was your meter saying that the resistance is greater than 200 ohms (aka, heater is bad). This is why a lot of meter say "OL" (overload). This way it doesn't get confused with an actual reading or something of the like.
#26
HELP, ok, like what H2O2 said, when you have your probes apart and the "1" shows up, that is how it is saying that it is seeing a resistance greater than the selected scale. Never seen a multimeter do that before, but, it makes sense in a weird way.
So, you have a bad heater in that O2 sensor and that is causing it to read erroneously and therefore needs to be replaced. If you look next to where you unplugged the upstream sensor (that had a grey plug), you will see a black plug. that is the downstream sensor. It plugs into the center of the catalytic converter there dead center of the engine, under the air box. You look down there, you will see it sticking out the side. But, really, you just need to get access to the plug which is out in the open. Repeat the same steps like you did on this sensor and you will see the difference. What was confusing me was you were saying that you were getting 1 (which I assumed to be 1 ohm), but in reality, it was your meter saying that the resistance is greater than 200 ohms (aka, heater is bad). This is why a lot of meter say "OL" (overload). This way it doesn't get confused with an actual reading or something of the like.
So, you have a bad heater in that O2 sensor and that is causing it to read erroneously and therefore needs to be replaced. If you look next to where you unplugged the upstream sensor (that had a grey plug), you will see a black plug. that is the downstream sensor. It plugs into the center of the catalytic converter there dead center of the engine, under the air box. You look down there, you will see it sticking out the side. But, really, you just need to get access to the plug which is out in the open. Repeat the same steps like you did on this sensor and you will see the difference. What was confusing me was you were saying that you were getting 1 (which I assumed to be 1 ohm), but in reality, it was your meter saying that the resistance is greater than 200 ohms (aka, heater is bad). This is why a lot of meter say "OL" (overload). This way it doesn't get confused with an actual reading or something of the like.
One thing is I still have the p1000 code when I clear the codes this still stays how can I fix it? This code means that there are pending codes that I can't see or smt is there a way to see them? What should I do about the code? @Thermo @h2o2steam
#28
ohhh ok ig when i drive it around properly not just in my alley it will go away after it's check off everything 😀 how long would it take any ideas?
#30
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,376
Likes: 0
Received 3,887 Likes
on
3,194 Posts
Help, you have 2 ways to clear the check engine light/get rid of the P1000 code. The quickest way is to simply disconnect the battery after you do the repair to clear the memory of the ECU. Some people do not like this method as you are "shocking" the ECU and all the other computers and this can lead to other failures. I have never personally experienced it, BUt, I am sure if you did something goofey like touched the terminals backwards, it could cause things to not work right afterwards. Using a code reader to clear the code does not seem to have the negative effects of the power cycling and will give an immediate response.
The other way is to complete 5 drive cycles. Each cycle has to consist of 10,000 revolutions of the engine and the vehicle getting up to temperature. During this time, the car is going to be doing all of its checks and there cannot be any failures. If there is a failure, then this restarts the counter. On the 6th start, the CEL will extinguish with the engine reaching idle speed.
The other way is to complete 5 drive cycles. Each cycle has to consist of 10,000 revolutions of the engine and the vehicle getting up to temperature. During this time, the car is going to be doing all of its checks and there cannot be any failures. If there is a failure, then this restarts the counter. On the 6th start, the CEL will extinguish with the engine reaching idle speed.
#31
Lots of codes cannot flag until the OBD monitors are set. (Set again or re-set if you prefer that wording, but re-set is oft confused with reset which is its opposite.)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
racerx82
S-Type / S type R Supercharged V8 ( X200 )
2
08-21-2007 07:55 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (0 members and 3 guests)