Engine Management Warning Bulb off
#1
Engine Management Warning Bulb off
Afternoon all,
I've recently purchased a 2003 X-Type and it was mis-firing.
However, my question is why the engine management light was off? Obviously, I guess the most likely is that the bulb has gone, but I wondered if it was possible to disable it (so an unknowing buyer wouldn't know) and if so, what should I look for?
Thanks in advance for any responses.
I've recently purchased a 2003 X-Type and it was mis-firing.
However, my question is why the engine management light was off? Obviously, I guess the most likely is that the bulb has gone, but I wondered if it was possible to disable it (so an unknowing buyer wouldn't know) and if so, what should I look for?
Thanks in advance for any responses.
#2
Join Date: May 2008
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Manclarky, first off, welcome to the forums. You will find lots of good information here and you can learn a lot about your car. So, read what you can here and you will find out all sorts of interesting things about your car.
As for your problem, the best thing I can tell you is to first get into the car and put the key into the ignition. Now, rotate the key to the RUN position, but do not start the engine. This will force the "Check Engine Light" on (small engine looking icon in the center of the speedo dial). if that light does not come on, someone more than likely has pulled the bulb if you are having mis-fire issues. If the light comes on, yet goes out when the engine is running, then short of someone putting a custom ECU into the vehicle, the CEL light will come on when things are bad enough that the computer thinks it is an issue. I doubt someone would go to that extreme to just get rid of a CEL on a vehicle that they are selling. Worst case, you can access the ECU and look at it. If you see a jaguar sticker on it, then odds are it is still the factory unit. If you see something with a different manufacturer sticker on it, then I would start questioning things.
As for your problem, the best thing I can tell you is to first get into the car and put the key into the ignition. Now, rotate the key to the RUN position, but do not start the engine. This will force the "Check Engine Light" on (small engine looking icon in the center of the speedo dial). if that light does not come on, someone more than likely has pulled the bulb if you are having mis-fire issues. If the light comes on, yet goes out when the engine is running, then short of someone putting a custom ECU into the vehicle, the CEL light will come on when things are bad enough that the computer thinks it is an issue. I doubt someone would go to that extreme to just get rid of a CEL on a vehicle that they are selling. Worst case, you can access the ECU and look at it. If you see a jaguar sticker on it, then odds are it is still the factory unit. If you see something with a different manufacturer sticker on it, then I would start questioning things.
#3
#4
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man, changing out the bulb overall isn't hard, but don't plan on doing it in 5 minutes. In short, you have to remove the whole instrument cluster from the dash. THis involves a fair amount of disassembly. So, getting your hands on something like a Haynes manual will be helpful if you have never done something like this before.
since you are in there, may want to look at changing out all of the bulbs back there. Once you get into it, you will understand why I say this.
since you are in there, may want to look at changing out all of the bulbs back there. Once you get into it, you will understand why I say this.
#5
man, changing out the bulb overall isn't hard, but don't plan on doing it in 5 minutes. In short, you have to remove the whole instrument cluster from the dash. THis involves a fair amount of disassembly. So, getting your hands on something like a Haynes manual will be helpful if you have never done something like this before.
since you are in there, may want to look at changing out all of the bulbs back there. Once you get into it, you will understand why I say this.
since you are in there, may want to look at changing out all of the bulbs back there. Once you get into it, you will understand why I say this.
#6
#7
it might be a good idea to familiarize yourself with all the warning lamps, and testing to make sure they all come on.
Previous owner may have removed other warning lights such as ABS...i once bought a car with 4 warning bulbs removed as all the lights were showing problems
message me and i'll send a pdf of the warning lights
Previous owner may have removed other warning lights such as ABS...i once bought a car with 4 warning bulbs removed as all the lights were showing problems
message me and i'll send a pdf of the warning lights
Last edited by iownme; 09-05-2012 at 05:29 PM.
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#8
failed smog due to light not coming on
man, changing out the bulb overall isn't hard, but don't plan on doing it in 5 minutes. In short, you have to remove the whole instrument cluster from the dash. THis involves a fair amount of disassembly. So, getting your hands on something like a Haynes manual will be helpful if you have never done something like this before.
since you are in there, may want to look at changing out all of the bulbs back there. Once you get into it, you will understand why I say this.
since you are in there, may want to look at changing out all of the bulbs back there. Once you get into it, you will understand why I say this.
thanks
#10
I have a 2003 xtype jag. I went to get the state smog check to renew my registration and it failed because the traction control/DSC, engine mailfunction, Powertrain malfunction and airbag lights dont come on at all on the instruments panel inside the RPM wheel. I think that the previous owner did something to it so as to mask an engine problem because we actually replaced the engine 4 months ago. We have taken apart the dash and pulled the instrument panel out but now that its in my hands I can pry it apart to check on the bulb and Im afraid to pull it apart anymore as to not cause damage to it. I dont see any more screws or anything keeping it together now other than maybe the gauges themselves... I called the jag dealer and they said they actually dont sell the bulbs but wouldnt say more as they want me to bring it in and charge me an arm and a leg just to look at it. Any help would be appreciated it.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#11
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Ward, I have some good news, I have some bad news. The bad news is that the lights for the instrument cluster are LEDs that are soldered to the board. As you can imagine, replacing them would take some technical training to do that. But, don't fret. What I want you to do is to get your hands on a magnifying glass (doesn't need to be too powerful). Where you disconnected the plus for the instrument cluster, I want you to look at those solder joints (the silver piles on the board). They should all make a nice dome or a teepee shape that is uniform in color the whole way. If you see one with a black line/crack going around it, that is your problem. Someone with some basic soldering skills will be able to touch up that solder joint and get you back where you need to be. After that, you may need to look at where the solder joint transitions to the metal foil run (the lighter part of the circuit board that is the squigley lines connecting the various points). Where they meet, you want to look for a black line there too. IF the board has been flexed too far, the foil runs can be stressed and they will break. If this is the case, let me know as I have a way to repair those too. Granted, this will take a little bit more expertise.
#12
still trying...
Hi, I know what you mean with it all, my dad can solder those for me if need be but the problem Im running into right now is the panel itself. Its being held together bu the 4 gauges and so I cant even look to see if there are any hairline breaks to fix. The white round parts on the back dont pull out and I can see where the gauge line goes from one side to the other but have no idea how to pull it apart from there...If at all possible, dont want to end up breaking it and having to replace the whole thing. Im sure its pricey $$$
#13
Did you try getting it apart by those four white plastic locking tabs? Generally those sorts of things snap together. Not sure if you would loosen that and the whole gauge would come up or you would have to remove the gauge pointers first. I would guess those are just press fit in. Just a guess, I really don't know for sure. Good luck with it. Hope you can get it figured out and sorted soon.
#14
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Ward, the needles are just pressed on to a metal shaft. So, if you can get say a butter knife under the needle and then twist so you are lifting from the center (near the metal shaft), the needle will pop right off.
Now, one thing that I would recommend is that before you start popping those needles off, put the instrument cluster back into the car long enough to start up the car and note where the needles come to rest after about 20 seconds of idle time. You will need this information when you go to put the needles back on because you will want to put the needles back on in these same spots. The tach should be around 700, the ODO should be on 0, the temp gauge should be in line with the C mark. The big question is where your gas gauge is currently reading. You get that off, it can make for an interesting trip as you can think you have say a 1/4 tank of gas and run out of fuel. Might make for a bad day.
Now, one thing that I would recommend is that before you start popping those needles off, put the instrument cluster back into the car long enough to start up the car and note where the needles come to rest after about 20 seconds of idle time. You will need this information when you go to put the needles back on because you will want to put the needles back on in these same spots. The tach should be around 700, the ODO should be on 0, the temp gauge should be in line with the C mark. The big question is where your gas gauge is currently reading. You get that off, it can make for an interesting trip as you can think you have say a 1/4 tank of gas and run out of fuel. Might make for a bad day.
#15
new problem related to the old
so I was unable to open it and afraid to break it and was given the price of $1100 by the dealership to get a new one plus their work, and so I found the part used online and got it and now that its on, it lights up and all but it wont start and says security failed and a light in the center console is flashing red. I googled it and say its the instrument panel not recognizing my key so I have to reprogram it. I called one dealership who said that it cant be done, I have to buy the part new and the second dealership said they dont know if it will work but they'll try for $200 but I need 2 keys and since I only have one that I need to buy the second as well. I called an outside place that said they dont have the machine for 2003 and newer to reprogram it. Oh, and Im mistaken, I dont have a 2003, its an 04! sorry, the registration says year sold for the 2003 so I didnt realize that, dont know if it matters. Thanks!
#16
Ive seen programming instructions but one problem is I dont have a FOB, just a key...
Okay, so finally decided to pry open the old one and saw that the previous owner who sold it to me, not only shoved a piece of paper to block the check engine light but also broke off the little square, which I assume is the light... HELP. I cannot afford $1600 for new instrument panel after I just spent $2500 on the engine!
Okay, so finally decided to pry open the old one and saw that the previous owner who sold it to me, not only shoved a piece of paper to block the check engine light but also broke off the little square, which I assume is the light... HELP. I cannot afford $1600 for new instrument panel after I just spent $2500 on the engine!
Last edited by ward1724; 01-06-2014 at 06:50 PM.
#17
Ward, I have some good news, I have some bad news. The bad news is that the lights for the instrument cluster are LEDs that are soldered to the board. As you can imagine, replacing them would take some technical training to do that. But, don't fret. What I want you to do is to get your hands on a magnifying glass (doesn't need to be too powerful). Where you disconnected the plus for the instrument cluster, I want you to look at those solder joints (the silver piles on the board). They should all make a nice dome or a teepee shape that is uniform in color the whole way. If you see one with a black line/crack going around it, that is your problem. Someone with some basic soldering skills will be able to touch up that solder joint and get you back where you need to be. After that, you may need to look at where the solder joint transitions to the metal foil run (the lighter part of the circuit board that is the squigley lines connecting the various points). Where they meet, you want to look for a black line there too. IF the board has been flexed too far, the foil runs can be stressed and they will break. If this is the case, let me know as I have a way to repair those too. Granted, this will take a little bit more expertise.
Thanks
Last edited by ward1724; 01-06-2014 at 07:11 PM.
#18
#19
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Ward, first off, the dealership can program the instrument cluster with only 1 key. Would they prefer two, of course because it saves you money in the end (won't have to go back to them if you need to program another key) and they make more money too in selling you the second key. Granted, I would tell you to look on e-bay and you can get the FOB and blank key for fairly cheap ($50 or so). Then you would have a second key to give them and get it programmed. You may want to have a locksmith cut the key for you so they think the new key is one that you got with the car.
Unfortunately, it is looking like you will need to spend the $200 to have the dealership program the instrument cluster for you.
When it comes to fixing the instrument cluster and getting the new pieces installed, unless you have electronics background, I would not consider this something a normal person would be able to do. With that being said, talk to a local DC Engineering place (someone that re-winds alternators and starters) and see who they may have in the shop or know. I am sure they could solder up things for around $100. The big thing that I fear is that whoever ripped the old parts off, may have damaged the board in the process which would make a repair by you tons more difficult. IT is one of those things that a tech would need to have the board in hand to get a true grasp of whether it can be repaired.
Unfortunately, it is looking like you will need to spend the $200 to have the dealership program the instrument cluster for you.
When it comes to fixing the instrument cluster and getting the new pieces installed, unless you have electronics background, I would not consider this something a normal person would be able to do. With that being said, talk to a local DC Engineering place (someone that re-winds alternators and starters) and see who they may have in the shop or know. I am sure they could solder up things for around $100. The big thing that I fear is that whoever ripped the old parts off, may have damaged the board in the process which would make a repair by you tons more difficult. IT is one of those things that a tech would need to have the board in hand to get a true grasp of whether it can be repaired.
#20
Hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like those are fairly large sized components and if you could determine what make and part number they are you might be able to buy some from a distributor and solder them in. What might be the most difficult part is being able to buy just a couple. Those sorts of things are typically sold by the reel. Maybe you could find someone that would take pity on you and they would send you a sample strip. Really sucks I know. Hope it works out for you.