My 2003 auto was running fine until there was a definite stumble this week together with "check engine" light and the message "cruise not available".
My scan tool does not pick up any codes but I used the clear routine which turned off the check light on the dash.
The car ran for a day then on a cold start the same message appeared and again no codes. BTW the cruise still works fine.
Does this mean the dreaded trip to the dealer???
Anyone have a clue?

Thanks,
Brian [sm=boohoo.gif]

 

You may have a vacuum leak..and when the engine is cold they leak more, then after it heats up, they seal off again..get some carb cleaner and squirt areas of the intake manifold and listen for hissing sounds too..(when it's cold)

 

as Dennis said, vacuum leaks, imts, pcv hose, brake booster vacuum line, cruise not avail predominatly comes on for vac leaks

 

This pipe take aminute to check and according to the dealer is a common failure,they sell loads and the new pipes are much sturdier.
Fitted one to mine recently and only cost a fiver.





Then again it could well be something else but worthcheckingit onlytakes a minute and is easy to fit

 

Thanks for the insight. I waggled and inspected all the vacuum lines I could find. Did not see a problem and the car is working fine now.
Maybe there was a small leak at a connector or maybe its just that the temperature has gone up (not for long).
At least I know what to keep an eye on.

Brian

 

same thing with my 02 x. cept my cruise would not stay on and would go to limp mode after a while. there is a upper and lower air intake port on top of your motor, mine was sucking in air on the top one, i put a new rubber o ring in and that fixed it. only cost a couple of bucks.

 

Sounds like the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets. There are 12 of them in total, 6 between the upper (aluminium) intake manifold and the lower black plastic fuel injection manifold, and 6 between that fuel injection manifold and the block. I actually just did mine not two weeks ago, and it was pretty easy. The total working time was only about 2 or 3 hours. Unfortuantely the parts aren't inexpensive. I tried every local auto parts store, and no cross-reference is available. You have to buy them from Jaguar. I bought those 12 gaskets, a new throttle body gasket, and two gaskets for the intake manifold tuning valves, and a set of spark plugs. I ended up paying right at $200. Plugs aren't due until 100k, but I have 82k on the clock and didn't want to have to go back in later.

But before this I had pretty similar symptoms.. For a while, I only had trouble on really cold mornings until the car got up to operating temp. It would idle REALLY rough (surging at stoplights, sputtering, etc) but would smooth out fine after 5 or 10 minutes. I had a check engine light, the yellow warning light, "Cruise not available," and occasional limp mode.
When cold, the gaskets shrink slightly, causing multiple vacuum leaks. Once the cars warms up, they expand and seal correctly fixing the problem. Once you get in there and pull the manifolds off you will see how squashed they are... especially the lower ones that contact the block. Those were very noticable shrunk on my car.

Since you've already checked the thick vacuum hose under the airbox, I'd check the hard lines coming from the brake booster going to the intake manifold for cracks. If those are fine, then I'd go ahead and do the gaskets. How many miles are on your car?

 

hello 310jag, you replyed to me and i did'nt see it before today,this mourning is freezing here in south atlanta, about 20 deg, and my x is up to its old tricks, engine light and cna, so i,m going to check all those hoses here soon. love my x-sport, had it since new in 02, 71k miles.

 

Check the PCV hoseby actually pulling it off and looking for a split in the bottom. Check the Brake Booster by looking at and feeling the check valve in the middle for deterioration. The IMT o-rings should produce a noticable "hiss". If you search the forum, you'll see pictures and locations of all three. I'll bet it's the IMT o-rings if it's happening more when cold, but it's worth replacing all of these at once as it seems to cure most everyones vaacum leaks.

 

can you give me the location of the imt o-rings?, pvc hose is ok but came off easy.

 

They are in here. Passenger side, top. Thanks to Dennis for the use of the photo, again.

 

THEYRE THE BLACK PLASTIC BODIED ELECTRIC VALVE ON THE BACK LEFT OF THE INTAKE, ABOUT 3" IN DIAMETER. FORGET THE HISSING, TAKE A 8MM AND TAKE THE BOLTS OUT OF THE UPPER IMT VALVE AND PULL IT BACK TO EXPOSE THE ORING, IF ITS YELLOW ITS ORIGINAL AND TOO SMALL. REPLACE THEM WITH THE UPDATED GREEN SLIGHTLY LARGER ONES

 

thanks mohrd, yes i'v acctually changed that last time with advise from our forum, i did'nt recognise the term imc, to me its just the upper air intake. i checked it again today tho and its not sucking in any air like last time. so i'm at a loss as to what else to check apart from the pcv valve, which also seems ok.

 

IF YOU PCV HOSE ISNT RIBBED...YES LIKE THAT, YOU HAVE OLS STYLE THAT CAN SUCK FLAT AND CREAT MOMENTARY VACUUM LEAKS WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD, AND TYHE BRAKE BOOSTER LINE NEW STYLE LOOKS LIKE SOMEONE PUT A BIG PICE OF HEAT SHRINK OVER THE CHECK VALVE IT THE MIDDLE OF THE LINE. IF THE BLACK PLASTIC AROUND THAT VALVE IS WHITE FROM DETERIORATION ITS BAD REPLACE IT. AND YOU REPLACED BOTH IMT ORINGS? 1 ON EACH VALVE? AND ARE THEY THE UPDATED LARGER GREEN ONES? AFTER YOUVE DONT THIS WOULD BE WHERE THE REAL DIAGNOSTIC COME IN, CAUSE THESE ARE ALL JUST REALLY COMMON ISSUES WITH THE XTYPE

 

Based on the good info here I changed the O-rings (the PCV hose is on B/O). The old yellow ones were hard and flattened.

Two whole days now and no messages on the dash. This may be the fix.

Thank you everyone.

Brian

FYI the dealer charged $2.70 each for the rings (little Canadaian dollars) and they were in stock.....

 

Good on ya. Here's wishing you a code free winter. Of course the o-rings were in stock. It's getting cold out and not everyone has changed from the originals yet. Probably have a few propshafts on the shelf, too.

 

I COULD TELL YOU BUT THEN WOULD HAVE TO KILL YOU..........
OK PAYPALL ME $10, ON THE HONORSYSTEM BBRUTON2001@YAHOO.COM REMOVE THE LOWER IMT AND EITHER SLIP THE ORING OVER THE BACK AND ON THE VLAVE(THEY DO STREATCH) OR MY PREFERRED METHOD IS PUT A PRY BAR UNDER THE IMT RIGHT ORING BOSS AND PIVOT ON THE CAM COVER, EASILY PRESS UP TILL YOU PROVIDE ENOUGH CLEARANCE TO SLIP THE VALVE PASS THE CAM COVER, REPEAT TO REINSTALL, THERE NOW YOU KNOW THE SECRET....