Smelled gas on fill up near left back tire for several months with an intermittent evap leak code (not the rubber connection hose on fill spout to gas tank = replaced 2 1/2 years ago). Smell started to invade the cabin last few fill ups in addition to left rear tire. Finally, filled car, went to grocery store and when unloading noticed what appeared to be black "oil" leaking on the ground inboard from the left rear tire about 1 1/2 to 2 feet looking from the front of the tire. Thought wtf would oil be leaking from there? Stuck my finger in it to taste it a little (oil, hydrolic fluid, ?). Just as I went to put it on the tip of my tongue got a whiff of gas.

Spent the next few hours internet searching possible cause(s) and came to the conclusion the evap canister assembly (some part, solenoid? hose?) had failed and it pumped gas into the canister and then out the "to atmosphere" hose and to the ground. It was gas mixed with the charcoal that was the leaking "oil".
Internet says these never fail in cars..... okay....
Called member dr dome and 20 seconds into describing what happened he says "evap canister". Says he's had 3 fail on his car, 1 hose, others who knows. Anyway asked if he could get me one. Yup have a car in the shop and can get it off in a week. Will call me with a price. 2 weeks later follow up call "been busy, sorry give me another week". This back and forth goes on from Oct. 1 2021 to February 2022. Finally just quits taking my calls or answering texts.

Kitty is drinking gas like it's free. Drive 2-3 miles and the range drops 12-15 miles. Car needs emissions e.o.m. March. Research, research, research failed buys where they said they had it then didn't, refund money try again. 6 failures finally succeeded in finding one in New York. Shipped it in to Utah..

Called the import clinic to get the part put in. Was quoted $750 (6 hours) *gulp* oh well gotta get it done. Dropped it off 9:00 @ 5:30 get a call. "We're 3 hours in and their tech says he's afraid he'll break something because of the rust. Funny it's that bad when they removed it 2 1/2years ago! Ever heard of using fluid film when reinstalling?
1. You can pay us the 3 hours and pick up the car (that won't work, gotta get emissions).
2. You can pay us and take it to a body shop to try removing the rear sub frame.
3. We can give it a try but put 2 techs on it one above and one below but labor will double. I suggest spraying the crap out of everything with penetrating oil, leave overnight and go for it the next day (what do I have to lose?).

They got it done. Labor ended up $1,200. Makes you sick in the stomach doesn't it?

Inspecting my requested return parts, I think I found the failure?





I don't think the purge valve should have that crack in it.

 

UPDATE
My assumption of the trouble being rusted subframe was not the problem. Communication problem of the desk guy. Why is it so hard removing the subframe when you did it 2 1/2 years ago? "Because of the rust". Went to the shop today to speak with Brian the manager. It was NOT the subframe giving them a problem (although the tech did end up removing the entire subframe and laying it on the ground). It was the corrosion of the evap canister attaching points. "Studs" was the term used more than once in the explanation. They had to cut the evap canister away from the "studs" and try getting them loose. Said they take a 13mm and because of the rust degradation even a 10mm just free spun. Hence their thought process of a body shop suggestion = less $ per hour and maybe they would have to torch the "stud" out and weld in new plates. So all in all an expensive repair if anyone has similar trouble with theirs.

BTW, the part I found in New York was $50 & $40 shipping plus tax.

 

THERE IS NO JOY IN MUDVILLE!

Driving car to reset drive cycle components, it threw evap codes once again (very small and small). Salt Lake City Jaguar says they doubt they can help with the problem (how nice). Looking for alternative(s).

 

Filled car up (as I had run it to low fuel to have evap canister replaced) and the S.O.B. burped up fuel on the ground again after driving it home. SMFH! Hairballs maybe, gas/charcoal no.

 

New vs old close valve from my recent replacement. Amazingly the old valve still seemed to operate fine on the bench. I too continued to get evap codes after replacement. Long story short, in my case those connectors on the evap hoses are brittle and during disassembly or reassembly I broke one. Fixing 1 hose connection meant dropping the exhaust, driveshaft, diff, and gas tank. A lot of labor, but since it had all been done recently there was no rust to deal with.

Can your mechanic run a "sniffer" to find your leak?

 

So Import Auto Clinic smoke tested the car. Says there is a "significant" leak on top of the gas tank. Today updated that the sending unit (LHD) on the driver's side is leaking. Seal ordered. Hoping that this will fix the problem as they will smoke test the tank after install. I now wonder if the leak was the evap canister in the first place? Maybe the gas was cleaning off all the crud up there and ran off looking like gas/charcoal mix. That being said the removed purge valve was damaged so maybe a combination of 2?

 

I have my fingers crossed for you Dell....been a heck of a journey for you chasing this fault down.
Good luck.

 

New update, as shop was replacing the gaskets, the ring(s) broke. None local so another 3 days delay for new ones to be shipped in. Rings? Yeah I caught that too as I replaced the gasket on the fuel pump side when I replaced it (see thread "my kitty died today"). They said they have to remove both? No response yet on my query "why do both need removed". I know the lock rings are a bitch, I tried everything when replacing the pump side and gave up and ordered a lock ring removal tool (see thread for part number). Came right off and back on with ease.

 

*fingers crossed* text from Import Auto Clinic =

Alright looks like we are about good to go. Had to replace both tank seals. When we smoke tested the tank the passenger side seal was leaking. Replaced that as well. Kurt used both lock rings but since I only told you we were using one of them I'll only charge you for two seals, one ring. Car is ready to be picked up when you are, total is $981.09 with tax out the door.


This is on top of the $1,200 I spent replacing the evap canister and it failing to reset (sigh).

 

End of this saga. Drove the kitty after picking up last night. All the sensors reset including evap (except components monitor which takes a while). Passed emissions retest. Both seals in tank were leaking with the sending unit much worse than the pump side (seal replaced when pump changed = odd that!). The sending unit lock ring was split about 3-4 inches around the circumference laterally = think between the threads. Both rings and seals replaced with new ones.