Hi I need help badly I was driving around and then my car 2004 jagaur xtype started to misfire the engine light was flashing I pulled over couldn't really do anything so I took it home going 10kph so it doesn't hurt the engine more. I took it apart added new ignition coil deleted the code and started it now u keep getting the code p1229 and p1000. The car is shaking and won't go over 2500 3000 rpm. Need help @Thermo would u know

 

HELP, the P1229 code is associated to your throttle body. From experience here, you are most likely looking at 1 of 2 problems. The easier one to fix is the plug going to hte throttlebody has been damaged and you will find that some of the pins may not be making great contact and this is causing the ECM to not be able to properly control the throttle body. If you look around here, there should be a number to get a new plastic casing for the throttle body plug to which you would just need to do a 1 for 1 wire transfer to make sure you do not mix up the wiring. From there, if your plug looks good, then odds are, due to age and wear, the brushes to your throttle body are worn and the computer cannot control the throttle body properly. It doesn't have enough spring tension to properly keep the brushes against the motor armature inside the throttle body. Can you replace the brush/spring assembly. Sure. But, it is going to talk a few specialty tools (I seem to remember you need a penta-torx bit - 5 pointed bit) to get the throttle body apart and then putting it back together can be a bit challenging as you have things trying ot spring towards the center as you are inserting the motor. Not impossible, but it will make you question your sanity.

Start with the plug and make sure it looks good and it fully functional. After that, you will need to find a used throttle body.

 

would you have a pinout digarm for the plug and how can i test if the plug has signal and power.

 

@Thermo so the plug looks good wires and all are fine I found this test thing

The first one is the only one that worked i get 5v on the orange yellow wire when I try step 3 and 4 I get nothing with the ignition on engine off and with the engine on reading is 0. Not sure what to do now I lost I need help...

 

Help, first off, all these measurements are referenced to Pin 1 (black/green wire). So, when you do the first check again, you should get 5.00 VDC. Then like is mentioned, you should have the red lead on the Pink/yellow wire and the black lead on Pin 1. If you are not getting this voltage, then this is telling me 1 of 2 things is going on. You either: 1) have a failed throttle position sensor (TPS), or 2) the connector is toast and needs to be cleaned at a mimimum if not replaced because the terminals inside of it are not making contact. So, I would start with pulling the plug, looking at all the terminals in there and making sure that they are all silvery in color. If they look dark grey or rusty, then you will need to clean them to get them back to a bright, silvery color. If this does not work, then your TPS is toast and has destroyed itself. If you have a bad TPS, I will tell you right now that unless you spend the big money up front and buy it directly from Jaguar, what you are going to find in places like E-bay/Amazon/etc is going to be hit and miss as to whether it is going to be a good part. That is why most people just get a whole throttle body from a wrecking yard as the wrecking yard is not going ot sell you just that sensor. They will sell you the whole throttle body.

 

ok I will give this a try again tommorw, but to clarify you are saying that the red lead needs to be in the orange/yellow? I dont have a pink/yellow wire also the pin one is the tps sensor pin that is in the TB?
I had the red lead in the orange/yellow wire and the black lead on ground. I cant go to a junckyard and get a TB I alr went to grab some headlights for this car but all the ones I went to didnt have an jaguars... its gonna be ..... if I have to buy a new one from the dealer

 

HELP, when I said the Pink/yellow wire, I was trying to simplify things and talk about the pink wire and the Yellow wire (the 2 outputs from the TPS). I am not talking about a wire that is pink and yellow.. So, you are going to test with a multimeter with the red lead on the Pink wire (may look orange) and the black lead on the black/green wire. You will then move the red lead over to the yellow wire and repeat the measurement. Make sure the car is turned on, but the engine not running. That will give you the voltages that were referenced in your letter to the ASE tech.

 

i was cleaning the throttle body and i notice a coolant leak i am currently repairing that once i hv it back together i will test the plugs and i will also test the ecm with my friends computer and see what's wrong the pic i sent was one i found only of the tech guy it's not the same code like he has but it's smt to do with the TB so I thought I could find smt trying that. Will keep you updated on iow it goes. Also any idea why the p1229 code showed up the car was running fine for 2weeks then out of nowhere there is a misfire and then this.

 

HELP, hard to say where all the coolant is going. Assuming the coolant is falling on top of the engine, that can lead to your misfire easy. As for a coolant leak potentially causing a throttle body to throw codes, that would depend on whether the TPS got some coolant inside of it and that is causing it to run amuck. Without putting my hands on the car, it is really hard to rule out all the potentials. It is going to take some investigation and some "it was leaking from here, can it get here?" questions and seeing if you can come up with some potential ideas.

 

When I first got the car it was leaking from the coolant metal pipe which is good now, right now the leak is coming from the coolant mainfold spilter part where the radiator also connects too the o-ring is bad so chaning that one: this part: https://www.ebay.com/itm/36446431528...0AAOSwQrhkr~0j the coolant leaks and makes a puddle under it. coolant in the tps dont know how that could happen. I have the TB took apart and when I shake it it makes some noise in the motor not sure about it dont think its normal but also dont want to open it up and have it be working fine before it was open yk

 

HELP, having torn a throttle body motor apart, nothing should be rattling. SO, if you are getting a noise from it, then most likely that is bad and that is what is causing your P1229 code and also your limited power. Unfortunately, you are looking at a new throttle body unless you are willing to tear apart the motor and spend a lot of time trying to find the correct parts (a real PITA, TRUST ME!!!!!!!!!).

 

what if I 3d print one of the parts whatever is making the noise?

 

HELP, you can 3d print a carbon brush? Not trying to be silly or anything, but what you are hearing is the brush bouncing on the stator and the stator trying to make the throttle body open and then the brush loosing connection and the throttle body motor relaxing and then the brush remaking connection, attempting to make contact, etc. The only way to fix that is to get a new brush.

 

Sometimes you can pick up some replacement carbon brushes for other equipment such as a router or drill, then reduce/reshape the donor brushes to fit the brush carrier size and depth of the motor you are trying to repair.

Cautionary note:
Never use any carborundum based abrasive paper on the brushes or the commutator, as the risk of transfer of some of the carborundum material into the brush or copper commutator is high and will ultimately cause fatal rapid wear of the assembly.....not the refurbishment result you want.
Often best to use glass or garnet based emery paper for dressing the brushes.

 

@Thermo @h2o2steam all right so I finally got the o ring for the coolant leak and put it to gether. Before putting the whole intake and all together I decided to check the 4 pin wire that goes to the TB. so the orange wire gives me 5v then, I had the red lead on the 5v wire and the black one on the purple it gives me 4.7v with the acceleration peddle pressed and not pressed. I get the same values for the other wire and for the last one it's ground.

I then was wondering what the two pin plug is for the motor. Still don't fully know. But I was testing it somehow I had the black lead connected to the negative terminal of the battery and was checking which lead ( red or green) was positive, no of them gave me any values. Then I had changed the meter to continutiy and had the leads the same but this time when I had the red lead with the red wire it beeped not with the green one though. So then I changed the meter back, but this time I had the red lead on the positive terminal of the battery and the black lead on the green wire. I am getting around 5v then I try it in the red wire and I am also getting around 5v which is not right cuase that red shoukd be ground since it beeped. I am lost I dont want to spend 300 on a new TB and then hv it still not work and be smt else. Any ideas what the next step should be? How can I fix this?

 

Hi Help,

Just focusing initially on the 4 pin throttle position sensor to get your measurements......
Set your test meter to measure DC voltages (if the meter is not an auto ranging model you will want to set it for the 0 to 20 volt test range).
The meter has a black probe (for negative) and a red probe (for positive), attach the black probe of your meter to the Black/Green wire of the throttle position sensor as that is the negative or ground reference for the sensor.

All the following voltage measurement references are assuming you continue to have the black probe connected to the Black/green wire.
Now with your red meter probe, measure the voltage you have on the Orange/Yellow wire to the throttle position sensor.....you should have 5 volts (that is the regulated 5V supply from the ECM to the sensor.
Next move your red probe to the purple wire where you should measure a voltage when the throttle body is in idle position of approximately 0.74 volts. At fully open it should measure approximately 3.97 volts.
Now the Yellow wire will have slightly different results; throttle body is in idle position of approximately 01.65 volts. At fully open it should measure approximately 4.20 volts.
You may be able to manually rotate the throttle butterfly to achieve measuring the TPS response voltage swing to ensure the TPS is delivering the upper voltage readings stated above.

To test the throttle body motor, put your meter onto the resistance (Ohms) setting and measuring across the two pins of the motor connector on the throttle body, you should be able to get a resistance reading of somewhere between 2 to 5 ohms (I don't have the exact resistance on hand to give you but it will typically be a relatively low resistance).
If you cannot get a resistance reading, or it is abnormally high then the motor is likely questionable.
If you are going to try running the motor by applying a voltage, I would probably suggest using a 6 volt lantern battery which should operate it less aggressively than applying a full 12 volt supply source.
Attach some test wires to your test battery source and with the throttle body unplugged from the loom briefly touch the test battery wires to the throttle body motor connector. If the TB motor responds it should open the butterfly, but if it doesn't, try reversing the wires to see if it was simply trying to rotate the wrong way (pushing against the end stop).
If the motor will not respond to a direct DC voltage being applied to it, then it is faulty.

 

ok I will go ahead and give it a try thanks, one thing do i need the tps 4pin sensor connected to the TB cause right now I have it off the intake manifold so I could clean it. If I do need it to be plugged in then I would have to use long wires to poke the back of the plug and get the readings?

 

HELP, your throttle body motor is a PWM style motor. PWM stands for Pulse Width Modulation. What is meant by this is that your motor gets 100% power when it has power applied, but, it is also turned off for a period of time. So, picture it this way. Lets say your motor is getting pulsed 1000 times a second and the voltage when it is on is 12 VDC. So, if you only have it turned on for 10% of the time (or 0.1 msec) for each pulse, your multimeter is going to read out 1.2 VDC (averages the 10% of on time at 12 VDC and the 90% of time when it is 0). This causes the throttle body to open slightly (about 10%). As you step on the gas pedal, the ECU sees the driver's command to want more throttle and the ECU commands the throttle body power to be on more and off less. As explained before, this will cause the throttle body to open more. The TPS then feeds back to the ECU how far open the throttle body is so it can match throttle body position with the gas pedal position (this is the simplified version, there is actually a lot more to this, but lets keep it simple for the moment). The ECU then looks at where it thinks it is positioning the throttle body and where the throttle body actually is and adjusts the on/off times to precisely position the throttle body. If the ECU does not see a matching TPS movement with a commanding of the throttle body, it assumes there is a problem with the TPS and shutdown down the throttle body motor to ensure the car will not take off uncontrollably. So, if you have a bad TPS, it can make it look like you have a bad throttle body motor.

LIke H2O2 said, your black lead on your multimeter should always be connected to the black/green wire as this is the ground (zero reference) for the TPS. Everything the TPS sends to the ECU is related to the black/green wire. Using other wires/points to put the black lead can potentially give erroneous readings. I could go into why this so, but it would be way too much information for what you are going through.

 

@Thermo @h2o2steam I get what you guys are saying so i tested the motor with 1.5 AA battery and the motor is getting power i can see it put its not moving my guess is that the power is too small for it to move so I am gonna try and use a 12v battery. for the tps plug i will have to check that after since the battery died its on charge since the engine is aprt cant start it and have it charge its self. if the 12v also does not work then I am gonna see if I can open the TB motor and cahgne the dc motor I have some laying around that is if the gears are in good condition. if it does open with the power given to it i am gonna open the tps sensor and clean it ig. what should I use to clean the TPS sensor?

 

@Thermo @h2o2steam alright so I did the plug test and I had the balck lead on the black/green wire (ground) and the red one on the purple. With the pedal not pressed I got 0v and same with the yellow wire.

I tested the motor added 9v battery and it makes noise but does not move maybe its still not enough volts being given to it?

I tested the motor pins on the TB i got a 6.7 ohms reading. Now by the looks of it and the info you guys have given I am guessing that the wire and the TB is bad. But is there a way to like 100% check what could be wrong cuase it's weird to have both of them fail out of nowhere it was driving fine before. And I don't want to spend 600 dollers for the TB and more one the wiring and still have it give the problem.