As per title. Looks like I need to remove mine. Doesn't look like it's going to be a fun job. Need a good clear explanation of the procedure. Thx

Went to Wal-Mart having not driven the kitty for a week. When I got out of the car, the cooling fans were running full tilt. My fans have always ran on an "as needed" basis even when A/C in auto position. Like sitting in bank window lane, I've heard them turn on and off while sitting there. When I returned, they were still going. Returned home and couldn't get them to shut down. I even pulled the lead off the temp sensor on the driver's side by the manifold. No change. Reached down beside the battery box and pulled the plug going into the FCM (white/blue small wire, didn't look at other small wire and 2 fairly heafty other wires I assumed are power and ground). Checked DC volts to blue/white wire (key off, battery connected, plug off module) and got 0 volts. Slide the connector back into housing and as soon as it makes contact, the fans turn on full (still no key on). Tried to check voltage on blue/white with plug installed but can't get an angle into it. If it's substantive that I get this reading, I'll try inserting a paperclip in the blue/white wire and check while fans are running (key off). So do you figure it's the FCM? Do they crap out instantaneously like that? And I thought the post 2004+ ones had been changed so this rarely occured? Looking down the limited space to see the FCM, it doesn't look like the "wavy" ones I've seen unless I just can't get a good enough view. The fins are towards the front of the car and seem to be parallel? A small sticker on the top says "Gate UK 06.09.05". It also is smaller than I pictured looking at replacement ones, about maybe 3 1/2 wide and 4 1/2 long?

 

Additionally, temp guage normal, raises with temp goes down when cooling, coolant fine. Replaced the "t" hose (in picture) that runs left and right and down the plastic hose (the ubiquitous split at top of plastic t) & new thermostat.

 

Hi Dell,

This Friday, I left the kitty for an AC refill after i did my alternator. Going back home (ambient temp 39c) I did experience my first overheat on the car after 19years! Indicator went up very fast just before red !!! Stopped immediately and switched off. Fan(s) were loud and didn’t switch off (ignition off). Opening the bonnet i realized that the lower fan was not running. I did manage to return back with the heater on (imagine driving at summer 39c with heater to the max !!!) Car Temp was all the way back at 95c. 1st check was to unplug the CTS and plug an 100Ohms resistor. Only the upper fan went on. A second check was to give directly 12V to the non working fan. It worked. Then i swap the fan connectors to the FCM and the non-working fan worked fine. I suppose my problem is the FCM. So, I am about to try and repair the FCM (is the newer one). I only found info and a video for the older one. Do you have any info repairing the newer FCM? Also, have you ever measure the fan resistance of the motors? With open connectors and fans isolated i'm getting 0.001 Ohms per fan motor. (multimeter scale on 200Ohms, the lowest on my meter) I did the same on another X-type set of fans that are also working and i'm getting 5.1Ohms per fan. I'm confused. What is the proper measure?
Thank you !

 

CTS?

 

CTS = Cooling Temperature Sensor.

 

The ECM determines the cooling fan speed by receiving inputs from the cylinder head temperature (CHT) sensor.

 

Newer X-Type (X400) FCM opened! Time consuming but doable.
You are right. is ECM and not CTS.

So, and according to the technical bulletin I’m attaching I have simulated a high temp scenario (310 Ohms represents 80Celcius – I did connect an 100Ohms resistor) in order to check both fans. Finally, the Fan Control Module (newer version) is faulty on one port (lower fan). I did attempt to open for fix. Is time consuming but is doable with simple tools. I will update with some photos of the final operation and describe step by step the procedure and my mistakes…. I also attach in PDF the specs of the transistors on the Power Out control board (the one with the yellow pins connector)

 

So, Dr. Dome came through with my replacement today. Got the p.i.t.a. in and when I plugged the power to the module - NO IMMEDIATE FANS ON (w/key off) = YEAH!!!

This is not a fun replacement. Removed the air box and battery tray and it's still hard because of the location and the tray metal (I have the gashes and lost blood to attest to this, it's damn sharp). If there was 2 inches more room ANYWHERE it would not be as difficult. The bolt, btw, is 8 mm. Getting the fan plugs off is equally fun because no room to press the holding clips "up" while trying to get enough force to remove the pigtails which are tight as hell.

 

Another positive is Dr Dome sent me one off an '06 Wagon (mine's an '06 sedan). When I got it, it says mfg date is 06/06/12. So the doner must have had it (complete fan assembly?) replaced in the past.

 

my fan module got fried up and did the research up to a point where i opened up my module.... but due to lack of skill and equipment i did not proceed to open the back side.....
i need a new replacement.
the cascade of events that led the FCM failing is:
1. i got a ignition coil misfire in cylinder 1,3,5
2 led to a minor service.
3. mechanic blow my cylinder 1 sparkplug
4. fixed that with an insert.
5. then i decided to deCat the Cat,
6. appear the bank 1 cat seats next to the FCM n thermostat, so the empty cat housing get hot and fried thermostat and FCM. the thermostat clogs up....
7. the coolant expansion tank blows up. (not yet in the know about the above problems in 6.)
8. i replace the coolant expansion tank, but the pressure bursts 1 radiator tank, i replace that also and get told to replace the thermostat. that's when i discovered that the thermostat is totally distroyed in spring pieces.
9. emmediately after removing the thermostat, The Fans started to be ON forever and ever. engine ON or OFF still Fans ON.
10..... problem is does absent FCM cause fans to be always ON? or Its actually fried?
i still have to switch them manually but the cable are also frying up now.....
need a new one.....

 

By now all the cars have probably been repaired, but for future readers:


@Dell: With the newer version of fan assambly (like shown in #7) the change is a lot more easy. You've only to remove the battery box. Even the plugs are easier to unlock.


If the fan (s) are running when the ignition is off (key off), either transistor(s) inside the CFM have blown (likely), or it's a wiring harness problem or ECU problem.

For the last two causes: When the control line is on ground, the fans run on full speed. When the controol output of the ECU is defective and it is permanently on ground, the fans would run on full speed, too.

(I don't know if the fans are running at full speed when the control line is [defectively] open all the time: For 3-pin modules the open control line is the signal to shut off.
4-pin modules could theoretically recognize the ignition off / key off state via the 4th line [probabbly power line for the inside board of the CFM with 4-pin CFMs].)


If only one fan doesn't run: Either a blown transistor or a defective fan / fan supply line. Or a loose female contact of the plug of one (high power) fan supply line!
You don't necessarily see that on the plug contacts. I also fell for it when I cross-switched the two fans for a test (the suspicious not running fan was running on the other port [bracing of the plug contacts]).
(A loose contact can probably destroy the CFM [or just makes it inoparatable by transistor self desoldering] in the medium term, too. By heat due to high resistance and / or sparks.)


To measure a fan motor (DC motor / collector motor) is not that easy: carbon brushes slide over the collechtors of rotator windings.
I've read somewhere the fans are 150W types each. Should consume about 12.5A at full speed each. (Mine use up about 15.5A each.)


Greetings to Cyprus, Botsouana, and the US,
catfondler