Fiberglass Box Update PLEASE READ!!
#1
Fiberglass Box Update PLEASE READ!!
I have just finished the mold for the cornerbox on the rear passenger side of the X-Type. The only thing I need from you is to know what size sub to accomidate first; the 10" or 12". Both will be available eventually but I want to satisfy the largest demand first. I will look at the total responses from now until tommorow at this time and that will be my first run. They will ship out on monday and rush delivery in time for Christmas will be available. Your help is appreciated.
#3
The price will be 200 dollars plus shipping. I will only have pictures once i make the front mold. That will depend on what size wins in the voting process. On my website www.loslabs.com in the install gallery you can find pictures of vehicles with this particular corner box style.
#5
Hi there, I viewed your site and I like your work. A littl eoff topic but on your site you did a VW phaeton and you made the centre stack where the audio and climate controls are all wood grain. How much would you charge to make the x-type centre stack all wood grain including a double din facia kit as well. I have seen others on here with a double din kit and it looks very odd with all the free space on the sides. I would rather have it all wood grain (to match the rest of the wood in the car) Can you give a price to do the face plate for the heated seats, the climate control and the double din facia kit as well. I would give you my climate control and heated seats plate but you would need to obtain the facia kit so please incluse that in the price as well.
Lastly can you pls post a firm price on this thread or a new one, just incase other members would like the same thing as well.
Thanks
Lastly can you pls post a firm price on this thread or a new one, just incase other members would like the same thing as well.
Thanks
#6
Is there not a little more science to this?
Sub enclosures need to be made with a certain number of cubic feet of space. Depending on the design, porting, baffling, free air speaker vs others, driver travel, etc are much more important than just the size of the woofer.
I know that many shops prefer to use experience over science, but there must be some method to decide what size woofer would be best in this enclosure. Using an internet forum online vote..... seems odd to me.
I would like the best sound... is that an objective answer?
Sub enclosures need to be made with a certain number of cubic feet of space. Depending on the design, porting, baffling, free air speaker vs others, driver travel, etc are much more important than just the size of the woofer.
I know that many shops prefer to use experience over science, but there must be some method to decide what size woofer would be best in this enclosure. Using an internet forum online vote..... seems odd to me.
I would like the best sound... is that an objective answer?
#7
The method is called simpson's approximation. And it is just basic calc. By defining a definate integral (volume) anyone can extrapolate near exact airspace using this equation. For speakers which need larger airspace; polyfill can be added to slow down the sine wave, thus giving the speaker the illusion of a larger box. It's pretty basic when you think about it.
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#11
Thanks for the clarification. Part of the decision for us will be:
1: How different are the Moulds? will one take up much more trunk space than the other?
2: What do you anticipate the sound difference to be? just more of good bass for the 12? or will the 10 be tighter and the 12 be lower, more rumble? lets say we have a 200 amp sub amp ready to go.....
#12
The space they take up will be the same. If you prefer a 12" sub, you would need a 12w1 or 12w3 but if you have the 10" box you could run a 10w6 or possibly a w7. I think a 10w6 with a 500/1 will hit the hardest and be the tightest. However you will still be able to get great response from a 12" sub with about 2-400 watts. The only difference is preference.
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