Front roll bar bushes RESOLVED
#1
#2
Yes it can be done-
In fact, I did it today. It IS a pain. I do have a lift in my garage which helped - it helped on todays' project by providing access.
You WILL need a extra-long 13MM wrench. I mean long - this will help break the 2 nuts holding the bushing brackets free.
You WILL need a both a straight 13mm (for the front bolt) and a flex 13mm (for the rear bolt) "Gear Wrench" type (got mine from Sears) -I don't know how you'd do the job without them.
Also - replace the end links -mine "fell apart" as I was removing them - unreal for only 46K miles. I got mine from Amazon - Moog parts -made in USA for about 32 bucks. Before starting, I also removed the end links so that the stabilizer bar would move freely and provide me better access while I worked. Another tip before you start, unlock the steering wheel - then you can move the front "wheels" left and right - this help a bit with access to the bushing bracket bolts.
When reinstalling the bushing brackets, clean the bolts via wire brush and use WD-40 or like so that you can "hand-start" the bolts - no access for wrenches when first putitng them back in - I uesd my finger to get them started, then finished with them using the corresponding "Gear Wrench".
All told, it took about 2.5 hours....then a couple chills as a reward for a job well done.
Hope this helps!!
You WILL need a extra-long 13MM wrench. I mean long - this will help break the 2 nuts holding the bushing brackets free.
You WILL need a both a straight 13mm (for the front bolt) and a flex 13mm (for the rear bolt) "Gear Wrench" type (got mine from Sears) -I don't know how you'd do the job without them.
Also - replace the end links -mine "fell apart" as I was removing them - unreal for only 46K miles. I got mine from Amazon - Moog parts -made in USA for about 32 bucks. Before starting, I also removed the end links so that the stabilizer bar would move freely and provide me better access while I worked. Another tip before you start, unlock the steering wheel - then you can move the front "wheels" left and right - this help a bit with access to the bushing bracket bolts.
When reinstalling the bushing brackets, clean the bolts via wire brush and use WD-40 or like so that you can "hand-start" the bolts - no access for wrenches when first putitng them back in - I uesd my finger to get them started, then finished with them using the corresponding "Gear Wrench".
All told, it took about 2.5 hours....then a couple chills as a reward for a job well done.
Hope this helps!!
The following users liked this post:
JimC64 (10-30-2012)
#3
#4
In fact, I did it today. It IS a pain. I do have a lift in my garage which helped - it helped on todays' project by providing access.
You WILL need a extra-long 13MM wrench. I mean long - this will help break the 2 nuts holding the bushing brackets free.
You WILL need a both a straight 13mm (for the front bolt) and a flex 13mm (for the rear bolt) "Gear Wrench" type (got mine from Sears) -I don't know how you'd do the job without them.
Also - replace the end links -mine "fell apart" as I was removing them - unreal for only 46K miles. I got mine from Amazon - Moog parts -made in USA for about 32 bucks. Before starting, I also removed the end links so that the stabilizer bar would move freely and provide me better access while I worked. Another tip before you start, unlock the steering wheel - then you can move the front "wheels" left and right - this help a bit with access to the bushing bracket bolts.
When reinstalling the bushing brackets, clean the bolts via wire brush and use WD-40 or like so that you can "hand-start" the bolts - no access for wrenches when first putitng them back in - I uesd my finger to get them started, then finished with them using the corresponding "Gear Wrench".
All told, it took about 2.5 hours....then a couple chills as a reward for a job well done.
Hope this helps!!
You WILL need a extra-long 13MM wrench. I mean long - this will help break the 2 nuts holding the bushing brackets free.
You WILL need a both a straight 13mm (for the front bolt) and a flex 13mm (for the rear bolt) "Gear Wrench" type (got mine from Sears) -I don't know how you'd do the job without them.
Also - replace the end links -mine "fell apart" as I was removing them - unreal for only 46K miles. I got mine from Amazon - Moog parts -made in USA for about 32 bucks. Before starting, I also removed the end links so that the stabilizer bar would move freely and provide me better access while I worked. Another tip before you start, unlock the steering wheel - then you can move the front "wheels" left and right - this help a bit with access to the bushing bracket bolts.
When reinstalling the bushing brackets, clean the bolts via wire brush and use WD-40 or like so that you can "hand-start" the bolts - no access for wrenches when first putitng them back in - I uesd my finger to get them started, then finished with them using the corresponding "Gear Wrench".
All told, it took about 2.5 hours....then a couple chills as a reward for a job well done.
Hope this helps!!
Regards George
#5
removing the front anti-roll bar...
Boy, I don't see how you can remove the front anti-roll bar without dropping the front sub-frame. When I did the bushings, I did each in place.
Perhaps with some fancy "twisting" you could get the bar out, but....good luck.
FYI - Parts numbers:
Jag front bushings: C2S 51258 -I coughed up the coin for these
Moog Front Anti-roll bar End links:K 80486 - these are $32.15 each at Amazon - plus Free Shipping! Far better than the insane price Jag wants....
Moog Rear Anti-roll bat End links: K 80860 - again $27.77 each at AMZ -plue Free Shipping!
Anyone know where I can find/x-cross reference for the Rear anti-roll bar Bushing? Jag Part C2S 51264???
I am having a REALLY tough time spending over $50 for a $2 rubber part. even more bothersome when Jag KNOWS it a lousy (and I am being kind here) part to start with....
Thanks!
Perhaps with some fancy "twisting" you could get the bar out, but....good luck.
FYI - Parts numbers:
Jag front bushings: C2S 51258 -I coughed up the coin for these
Moog Front Anti-roll bar End links:K 80486 - these are $32.15 each at Amazon - plus Free Shipping! Far better than the insane price Jag wants....
Moog Rear Anti-roll bat End links: K 80860 - again $27.77 each at AMZ -plue Free Shipping!
Anyone know where I can find/x-cross reference for the Rear anti-roll bar Bushing? Jag Part C2S 51264???
I am having a REALLY tough time spending over $50 for a $2 rubber part. even more bothersome when Jag KNOWS it a lousy (and I am being kind here) part to start with....
Thanks!
#6
Been there, done that
Blood, sweat and a lot of swearing. I changed the bushings without a lift, with a floorjack and 2 axle-stands.
Donīt know if iīd do it again.. There just isnīt room to operate. Gear wrench is a must.
Thanks for the hints. Wouldnīt even had tried the job without this thread. I didnīt remove the end links fearing that theyīd fall apart. I donīt think that it would done much of a difference if you remove them or not.
Happy about the result anyway. No more clunks from the front and handling is different. BTW, bushings cost 45eur (60usd) a pop.. With the same price you can get pu-bushings, but i was in a hurry because of the yearly MOT, so I couldnīt wait for the pu-bushings to arrive.
Thanks once again for the hints, saved a ton to DIY.
Donīt know if iīd do it again.. There just isnīt room to operate. Gear wrench is a must.
Thanks for the hints. Wouldnīt even had tried the job without this thread. I didnīt remove the end links fearing that theyīd fall apart. I donīt think that it would done much of a difference if you remove them or not.
Happy about the result anyway. No more clunks from the front and handling is different. BTW, bushings cost 45eur (60usd) a pop.. With the same price you can get pu-bushings, but i was in a hurry because of the yearly MOT, so I couldnīt wait for the pu-bushings to arrive.
Thanks once again for the hints, saved a ton to DIY.
The following users liked this post:
JimC64 (10-30-2012)
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