Front wheel bearing/ whole assembly
#1
Front wheel bearing/ whole assembly
I'm looking for a complete assembly for the front passenger side wheel bearing. Anyone have a good price on one? Best I could find was $350+. For that price I may just buy the bearing and have a mechanic put it in. Also I need to put on a speed sensor ring on the drivers side axel. The problem I see is the rear hub bolts seem to be very rusted and started to strip with the first attempt to take it off. Is there a better way to be able to slip the speed sensor ring on? Thanks in advance guys!!
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
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#4
Paul I was more looking for a new carrier assembly that already has the bearing pressed in. I think I may just take my carrier off and take it somewhere to have a new bearing pressed on. Thanks for the parts tip tho!
Thermo, do you have the procedure to slide the half shaft out by chance? Don't want to do more then I have to. Thanks
Thermo, do you have the procedure to slide the half shaft out by chance? Don't want to do more then I have to. Thanks
#5
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Cory, in short, this is what you will need to do:
1) with the car on the ground, remove the center cap on the wheel and install a large socket (35MM?) and loosen the center nut (do not remove, just loosen it enough to allow it to turn fairly free).
2) jack up car and remove the rear wheel, then remove the caliper from the hub assembly.
3) Fully remove the center nut from the CV shaft (loosened in step 1)
4) remove the top bolt to the spindle assembly and pull it forward a little bit
5) Push the CV shaft in a little bit to make sure that it is free and will move with little force for the next step. May be ideal to spray the splines when you are removing the nut to help get rid of any rust that may be present.
6) Remove the 2 bolts on the bottom of the spindle and pull the spindle from the car, ensuring that the CV shaft remains in place.
At this point, you should see the reluctance ring. May not need to fully remove the spindle to see the reluctance ring, but if you are going to be doing any other work or replacing the ring, then getting the spindle out of your way will make things easier. Just make sure not to let the CV shaft fall. You can potentially hurt the CV joint if you let it go to its limits. You can slowly let it go to the limit, just don't let the CV shaft fall.
Install is the reverse process. If you think you can remove the spindle nut once the tire is free, then you can do that too. But, you may find that you will either need to set the e-brake REALLY!!!! good or have a second person stepping on the brake as you break the nut free. It is torqued to like 150 ft-lbs or something of the like. So, you will need a decent size breaker bar to get it loose.
1) with the car on the ground, remove the center cap on the wheel and install a large socket (35MM?) and loosen the center nut (do not remove, just loosen it enough to allow it to turn fairly free).
2) jack up car and remove the rear wheel, then remove the caliper from the hub assembly.
3) Fully remove the center nut from the CV shaft (loosened in step 1)
4) remove the top bolt to the spindle assembly and pull it forward a little bit
5) Push the CV shaft in a little bit to make sure that it is free and will move with little force for the next step. May be ideal to spray the splines when you are removing the nut to help get rid of any rust that may be present.
6) Remove the 2 bolts on the bottom of the spindle and pull the spindle from the car, ensuring that the CV shaft remains in place.
At this point, you should see the reluctance ring. May not need to fully remove the spindle to see the reluctance ring, but if you are going to be doing any other work or replacing the ring, then getting the spindle out of your way will make things easier. Just make sure not to let the CV shaft fall. You can potentially hurt the CV joint if you let it go to its limits. You can slowly let it go to the limit, just don't let the CV shaft fall.
Install is the reverse process. If you think you can remove the spindle nut once the tire is free, then you can do that too. But, you may find that you will either need to set the e-brake REALLY!!!! good or have a second person stepping on the brake as you break the nut free. It is torqued to like 150 ft-lbs or something of the like. So, you will need a decent size breaker bar to get it loose.
#7
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#8
Corycarlo: A mechanic like Pep Boys would, for a few extra $'s, loosen the rusted rear hub nut using an air impact wrench and 6 point socket (which grips the nut better than a 12 point socket or wrench). You could finish the job at home.
This post lists the socket size, torque spec and part # for the replacement hub nut: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...8/#post1305722
This post lists the socket size, torque spec and part # for the replacement hub nut: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...8/#post1305722
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