Fudged up my steering follow up ( In other words i really F***** up)
#1
Fudged up my steering follow up ( In other words i really F***** up)
So Basically, i would have been better off sliding in the curb head on, the grand total of the repair comes to a woping 5000 canadain. Since i can't just ducktape everything back together, i have to fix it. The parts list isn't long but i have to be able to track them down. I have diagrams, and all the nessary lists that i need, now i just got to track everything down. This is what has happened to the car, the one side of the wheel is 2 inchs behind the other, i WILL be posting pictures of the damage. Tie rod - gone, ball joint lower right - gone, r & r steering knukle- gone, control arm assembly - gone, right front wheel - bent and destroyed, brakes - gone, until further notice. The uni-body frame is also bent and will need to be straightened out. Shes not purring anymore.
So, now that im over the fact that ill probaly be workin for a while. lets get down to business.
I Need the flowing in these diagrams. The mechanic gave me some names of these parts.
so any help on getting these parts would be nice, or point me towards the correct direction would be EXTREMELY helpfull. I know wthis is very long, the part numbers are given on the diagrams.
So, now that im over the fact that ill probaly be workin for a while. lets get down to business.
I Need the flowing in these diagrams. The mechanic gave me some names of these parts.
so any help on getting these parts would be nice, or point me towards the correct direction would be EXTREMELY helpfull. I know wthis is very long, the part numbers are given on the diagrams.
Last edited by Disco stu55; 12-09-2009 at 07:43 PM. Reason: diagrams
#2
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Disco, check out a local wrecking yard and tell them that you are wanting to buy a complete right front suspension setup and see what sort of price they hit you with. You may be surprised. Then you would be down to replacing a tie rod end and that is about it (probably wouldn't even have to do that). If you are after new, then check out http://www.jaguarparts.com. For example, you were quoted $233 CDN for the lower A-arm, Jag Parts sells the part for $179 USD. Not sure what the exchange rate is right now, but that might be a good deal, especially since it will be brand new.
Your other option is to look on e-bay and look up a seller that goes by the name of Tom's Foriegn Auto Parts. They have an X-Type that got hit in the corner and they are parting out the car. The suspension looks good. I'm sure if you make an offer for the complete suspension setup, you might be able to get it for a steal. I know he only wants $65 (includes S&H) USD for the lower control arm.
Hopefully this helps you feel better. Granted, have you looked into whether the insurance company would cover this or not? may atleast make it easier to cover the cost of the repair.
Your other option is to look on e-bay and look up a seller that goes by the name of Tom's Foriegn Auto Parts. They have an X-Type that got hit in the corner and they are parting out the car. The suspension looks good. I'm sure if you make an offer for the complete suspension setup, you might be able to get it for a steal. I know he only wants $65 (includes S&H) USD for the lower control arm.
Hopefully this helps you feel better. Granted, have you looked into whether the insurance company would cover this or not? may atleast make it easier to cover the cost of the repair.
#3
Join Date: Nov 2006
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WOW - sorry to hear that Disco....sounds Badddd.
Havin said that, if you have the time and inclination Thermo's idea could save you mucho $$$.
Check it out and if we can be of any help, please let us know?
Have you also contacted our vendors and tried Ken@britishparts and or the etchs such as Jagtechohio jag_genius etc etc?
Gotta be worth a shot surely?
All the best bro
#4
i will check those places out, and its pretty bad, we had to bring her home, otherwise she would be sitting in the parking lot at -45 celcuis, and i remerb her starting up and moving and inch, and all u heard was grinding metal. It is pretty bad, thermo, auto wreckers do not have the x tyope at all,no surprise there, i'm afraid i know the answer to this already, but does it matter what the suspension comes out of, just becuase you didn't mention it. I have found the control arm for 170, but im having trouble withteh tie rod, and other parts. Il give those guys a call or look. This really sucks.
#5
im looking for parts everwhere i can. The insurance company has a 1000 deductible, but thats not wha tim worried about, my record is clean, and the rate, according to my dad, wil shoot up like nuts. were trying it by cash first. It not that i can't pay the 5 g's, its just that i don't want tioo. and can u ive me a link to his page, or something, i can't find it on my computer. yeah and ill try those guys too JIM.
THANX, and keep her coming, did u guys want to see a pic of the damge lol.
THANX, and keep her coming, did u guys want to see a pic of the damge lol.
Last edited by Disco stu55; 12-09-2009 at 09:40 PM.
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#8
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Disco, worst case, check out http://www.brandywineparts.com. I know they have an X-Type (a few if I remember right) sitting on their lot. I needed a few parts and they said they had them. So, the parts are out there. Sounds like you have a wrecking yard that doesn't want to take the time to find the parts.
As for contacting Ken, send an e-mail to "ken@britishparts.com". He will respond back.
As for contacting Ken, send an e-mail to "ken@britishparts.com". He will respond back.
#10
Since you are in Canada, contact Jag Genius, should be almost half of retail price for parts.
If I had a new knuckle, and control arm, I could change them both in my driveway in 2 hours. I think that CT's labour estimate is high.
Tie rod end is another 1/2 hour, and I suspect an alignment job too.
I think if you worked on it, you can get the entire bill to less than half what is quoted.
This makes me tell you also, that I was doing a u-turn in a parking lot on Monday, and did not see a curb.... banged into it and cut the sidewall of one tire.. grr...
New tire... 150 !! seems that everything else is ok. Was on the winter wheels.
If I had a new knuckle, and control arm, I could change them both in my driveway in 2 hours. I think that CT's labour estimate is high.
Tie rod end is another 1/2 hour, and I suspect an alignment job too.
I think if you worked on it, you can get the entire bill to less than half what is quoted.
This makes me tell you also, that I was doing a u-turn in a parking lot on Monday, and did not see a curb.... banged into it and cut the sidewall of one tire.. grr...
New tire... 150 !! seems that everything else is ok. Was on the winter wheels.
#11
Yeah thats what happend, i was siply doing a u trun, the snowdrift was covering the curb and i banged into it.
But.. i foubnd this mechanic's shop in town that seems to be actaully willing to help, he cut the 1500 for the frame down to 500, and he said that the 5 grand is way to high. Im going to take the sheets over to him tuedays and he's going to give me a estimate. And ill send those guys a message.
He told me a bmw hit a bit harder then mine and spilt the rim in half and its came out to 7000, the rim for my car thats need to be replaced,. i found ofr only 200, refurbished and all fixed up. Now i just need the size of my rims, how can u tell, do i just measure. And does the outer tie rod, have another name such as tie rod end?
But.. i foubnd this mechanic's shop in town that seems to be actaully willing to help, he cut the 1500 for the frame down to 500, and he said that the 5 grand is way to high. Im going to take the sheets over to him tuedays and he's going to give me a estimate. And ill send those guys a message.
He told me a bmw hit a bit harder then mine and spilt the rim in half and its came out to 7000, the rim for my car thats need to be replaced,. i found ofr only 200, refurbished and all fixed up. Now i just need the size of my rims, how can u tell, do i just measure. And does the outer tie rod, have another name such as tie rod end?
#12
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Disco, are you running 16" or 17" rims? If you look on the side of the tire, it should have something to the effect of 225/45R17 written on it. The R number is your rim size. From there, the rims only come in 1 width based on the rim size.
As for the tie rod name game, odds are, they are going to refer to it as the outer tie rod end. That is the part with the ball joint in it (has the piece hanging down on it). The actual tie rod is the metal bar with threads on each end that the outer tie rod ends screw on to.
Hope this all helps.
As for the tie rod name game, odds are, they are going to refer to it as the outer tie rod end. That is the part with the ball joint in it (has the piece hanging down on it). The actual tie rod is the metal bar with threads on each end that the outer tie rod ends screw on to.
Hope this all helps.
#13
Outer tie rod is a linkage bar about a foot or so long, it included the tie rod end which is about 4 inches long and has a swivel joint on the end.
should be either a broken swivel joint, or a bent bar, and you need to get the appropriate piece.
How can they tell you the frame is bent? did they put the car up on a measuring rack?
I doubt that you would bend the frame at all from driving over a curb. Are you convinced this damage occured?
should be either a broken swivel joint, or a bent bar, and you need to get the appropriate piece.
How can they tell you the frame is bent? did they put the car up on a measuring rack?
I doubt that you would bend the frame at all from driving over a curb. Are you convinced this damage occured?
#14
yeah that did help thermo, yeah its bull, i don' get how a unibody frame can have that hapen to it. And it wasn't driving over the curb, i hit it sideways, and the car just banged off. From the visual, and driving it ( whch i don't do) it feel normal, looks bad, the righht side is a complete 2 inches behind the left, and at the shop i didn;t see any frame meausring device, they may have just check to see if its square and went fromt here, the old maesuring tape method i belive.
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