Woke up to a few chewed up wires and my gauge cluster has lost its odometer. ' - - - - - - ' is what it is saying. The car will not start up after I repaired the wiring that was chewed near the driver side firewall (2 small wires that pass through the driver fender). Is there any specific wiring that is relative to the cluster communication with the ECM? If not, maybe I will need to send in the gauge cluster for repair.

The car is a 2.5L Manual Transmission. I checked the clutch safety switch and it seems to be fine, removed the ECM and checked it for damage, all looks well. The only visible damage were those two small wires from what I can see for now.

 

Sounds like they might be the wires that go to the reluctor sensor for wheel rotation detection.
The loss of that sensor would not cause the odometer to be blank, at worst it would perhaps stop the speedometer from reading (if some other reluctors on the other wheels were also missing), and you might get traction control errors without feedback coming form one wheel.

Sounds like you have other issues with loss of data communication between ECM and your instrument cluster. That data comms is usually carried on yellow and green wire pairings between various modules.....so I suggest you look for other chewed wires.

 

The instrument cluster and the ECM along with the ignition are the only things communicating correct? I'm am just narrowing down the possibilities, I removed the old phone a while back and everything was working.

 

No....TCM, J-Gate module, climate control, security, Yaw sensor, are all on the same communications chain.
Do you get other instrument panel indications lighting up.
Is the car mobile...do you get Rev counter and speedo reading when moving etc?

 

The car is not mobile. All the lights are on in the instrument cluster. Usually when the engine starts they all turn off. Since the engine wont crank with the key and the clutch pedal pressed, I cannot verify if any other lights are "on" per say. The odometer has dash marks, no numbers at all. The security light by the shifter turns off with the key in the "on" position. I checked for other damaged wires and couldn't find any. I checked along the firewall and also inside the vehicle under the dash near the ECM and also removed the bezel and checked behind the instrument cluster as well. All the wires seem to be untouched. I can turn over the engine by jumping the starter with a bypass wire but the car won't start, just crank. I removed the ECM and checked the wiring harness that goes into the engine bay and the wiring is pristine, no damage that I can see.

I am clueless, I have a repair shop on standby that can repair the Instrument cluster if need be. Just trying to get some sort of confirmation. Maybe there are wires that go from the ECM to the Cluster directly that I can check for a short? You mentioned green and yellow wires to look out for, but they seem perfectly fine.

 

Just curious......Have you done a full fuse check in both the power distribution box (under hood) and the central junction fuse box (left side under dash).
It might pay to just pull each fuse one at a time and measure with a test meter, probably only take you 10 -15 minutes to do a full check. That will be where your mechanic will probably start anyway seeing you have had some damaged wiring already to repair that could have caused a fuse to fail.

Of particular note........
ECM fuses are:-
F80 (7.5A) located in the central junction fuse box.
F37 (15A) located in the power distribution box.

The wheel sensors are coupling back to the anti-lock braking and traction control module (behind right headlight) which is protected by fuse F96 (7.5A ) located in the central junction fuse box.

 

I will check all that tomorrow and update, I appreciate you very much thank you.

 

I couldn't leave it for tomorrow, I checked all the fuses and they were fine. I installed the original radio and it isn't asking for a code or anything. All seems fine. I however reconnected an OBD2 scanner and I do see two codes that may narrow down the issue.

P1000 and P1638

Is there a specific way to proceed on this? I imagine there is a short between the ECM and Instrument Cluster. If not, then I may as well send the instrument cluster in for a check and repair.

 

Well I stood up putting together some information that seemed logical to me. I was able to trace the wires back down to the instrument cluster but both the ICM and the ECM checked out to about 120 Ohms individually. I assume when the CAN system is fixed and the ignition on, the CAN system will drop down to about half at 60 Ohms?

 

The wiring should only have a couple of ohm resistance when measuring down the length of any particular wire, (one end of yellow to the other end of yellow).
If you are measuring between the yellow and green, then you are measuring the resistance of the CAN Bus inputs/outputs, which will vary depending on power state of the car.
You should be just measuring the continuity of each individual wire to make sure it is good.
If the comms wires appear fine, then yo might need to pull out the instrument cluster to see if you have any bad connector joints inside, as they can get joint fractures internally with heat and vibration.
That has been noted on several other threads recently.

 

I'm soldering away at the instrument cluster plug connector area. Hopefully I get lucky.

 

No luck, I am checking different avenues now. Checking wiring from ECM to ICM but the wires don't seem shorted and my Multimeter gives me the continuity 'buzz'. I unplugged the ECM and measured from the ECM connector side to the Harness connection near the Driver side strut tower. It checks out. What are the wiring pinouts for the cluster. I cannot seem to find a diagram with the correct pinouts. The instrument cluster has a black and a white connector. I pulled the factory sheathing back and the wires look pristine. I can see the twisted CAN bus wires from behind the cluster going to the firewall but when it enters the connector I can't make out the pins.

The only diagram I have shows the CAN bus wires are pins 17 and 18 on the black connector. Physically they are not there, unless I am doing something wrong. If P1638 is a ICM/ECM short or failure, can it be any wire along the CAN system that it communicates through? OR is it solely the ICM to ECM wiring that is in between?

 

Hi Gophat,
You might find the pin assignment shown is of the loom plug view not the receiving socket of the instrument cluster....so possibly appears back to front from what you are expecting.
The CAN bus data journey through the car is quite a "daisy chain", so yes it leaps from one module to the next, so you need to check integrity.
I have pasted below the CAN bus connection pathway schematic from the X-Type 2002 PDF I have been referring to for you.
You will note that the ECM links into the transmission control unit, which then routes through to the J-Gate, Climate control unit before reaching the instrument cluster......a real daisy chain.
You might need to check the integrity of CAN bus through to each point.

Something to note (might be something to check along the way, especially if you can recall having had damp carpets in the foot well after a heavy rain event :-
Some members have had issues with the transmission control modules receiving some water ingress via its cable loom.
The water appears to have come from the heater air intake area (due to debris blocking drains for the fresh air collection chamber under the scuttle which can trickle down onto the loom and find its way to the TCM.
I have seen members posting photos of them having opened their TCMs and discovering corrosion on the internal connector pins leading down to the TCM's PC board.
They have been able to clean that fine 'growth' off with small paint brushes or tooth brushes and a solvent like IPA or an electrical contact cleaner.

 

I can skip the TCM as mine is manual transmission. I can't get an ohm reading from my instrument cluster, should it read 120 Ohms while unplugged? I did a continuity test from the ECM across the engine bay to the driver strut tower plug. Then from that plug to the ICM, from the ICM to the Climate Control. Everything is checking out. I removed the CC the ICM and reflowed the connector portions of each. I am almost leaning to a bad ICM but with no evidence or proof as everything seemed operation. My odometer is blank and still has the dashes without any numbers.

The odometer is reading out E511, E510, 9600, D900, 9601, 9202, 9318, 9317, 9359, 9204. Is there anyway to clear this for a recheck? I purchased a new battery just incase as well. No go. Also my OBD2 scanner only reads P1638 and P1000, the P1000 erased after the battery change. I don't even know if this makes any sense.

The only sign of RODENT damage was the front ABS sensor on the driver side inner fender. No other wires go through there. The main harnesses just passes through the firewall. No signs of damage and the continuity is fine. I also cleaned and tightened the grounds down as well.

I'm lost.

 

Do you have any of the yellow or green CAN wires that measure shorted to ground or to supply line?
CAN fault can be wires open circuit, shorted together or shorted to ground or supply.

As for instrument cluster resistance between pins 17 and 18 when instrument cluster disconnected....I can't answer that unless I remove my cluster in the weekend to measure mine for you.
I'll see if I can do that for you to help answer that question.

With respect to the other codes you are getting....I am a bit confused...you mention that the odometer is all dashes...but those codes you say are in the odometer display.
That must mean you are seeing stalk codes (somewhat similar to the DTC codes you get with an OBD11 reader).
Here is a thread of Dell's where he kindly explains those stalk codes and their interpretation and relativity to DTC codes. (Stalk codes are not the most accurate info to go by).
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ersion-197064/

I am joining you in your concern that if the CAN wiring all checks out, no shorts or open circuits, then you likely have an instrument cluster module failed or the ECM has failed.
Does the car start and run, do you have Air Con operation, what other light if any are displayed on instrument cluster....Check engine light etc?

 

I think I confirmed it. I get no resistance on pins 17 and 18 in the cluster. I seen a YouTube video of a gentleman explaining that the Modules should all have close to 120 Ohms while unplugged but when they are in series with each other the modules regulate themselves down to about 60 Ohms. I don't know the magic but it was explained somewhat like that (new to me). By mistake I hadn't screwed the cluster in place and while turning the ignition the ICM tilted forward and it completely turned off. Not a single symbol, I thought it burned out or something, I gently wiggled the white connector the ICM and everything came back. It still had dashes on the odometer but I am convinced it has to be the ICM is internally damaged somehow and my reflow failed. I am pretty good at soldering and what not but maybe not good enough for this.

The odometer shows dashes and no numbers at all but If I hold the trip meter in while turning the ignition "ON" it turns on the menu center, that's where those codes came from. The twisted pair from the ECM to the ICM and CC are all in order with no opens or shorts to ground. Everything checked out but not the Instrument Cluster Module. I checked all fuses and relays inside and out. I removed fuse boxes and checked wires thoroughly behind and under the fuse boxes. I think I gathered enough evidence.

I am going to send the ICM out for repair. Around $200 USD (Reflow and "rebuild") for a turn around of 7 days. Sounds fair to me. Unless someone has a different idea. (maybe a circuit board repair sheet?)


Also, I really appreciate your help and I don't want you to remove your ICM for me lol. I am scared it will get damaged and I would feel terrible. Thank you.

 

I wish you every luck, sorry I cannot physically help you with this.
Please let me know how you get on, I am truly interested.

Also it is always good to get a conclusion to end the thread so others that follow might benefit from the collective experience.

 

The car does NOT start or run, in fact, it won't even crank with the clutch pressed. All the lights on the dash light up and function as they should, the lights that stay on are the engine light, temp warning, abs, oil, and battery (Ignition ON position). The odometer has dashes and the "secret menu" works. I can use a jumper from the battery to the starter and it will crank that way, but no start.

I will put the conclusion on here as soon as I figure this thing out. Hopefully the repair works.


Currently doing this:

 

Hi,
Any new updates on this topic?
I have very similar if not exactly the same problem with 2001 X-type 2.5 4x4 automatic transmission.
Engine crank if starter is bypassed but don't crank from the key.
Same sympthoms as yours.
ICM is like a christmas tree and don't show mileage.
Before reseting error codes i saw P017 wich was probably P0017, but after reseting errors it does not came back.
Can someone tell me if power steering should work when key is in 2nd position? Because it does not work now, maybe thats the problem. I see also that power steering fluid "tank" is almost full (more than maximum level).
On climate control & navigarion module climate control don't work, after a while it says something like "communication fault please consult your dealer".
Error codes and dash light on pics below.


Key in 2nd position.

After ERRORS reset.

Before ERRORS reset.

 

I'm still waiting for my ICM to return from the shop. They are rebuilding it. So I cannot confirm what the issue was. The P1638 means there's a communication fault from the ECM to ICM. There is a twisted pair of wires yellow and a green that run through each module and they all are tied together. You have to check if a wire is broken and also check the resistance of each module and make sure they are all within spec (about 120ohms disconnected) Since you have an automatic car it is possible the TCM is corroded and not allowing communication between the gauges and ECM. Since mine is manual transmission I do not have that in between my ECM and ICM wiring. The CAN wires are daisy chained ICM > TCM > ECM. The climate controls are also involved, I think a diagram was posted earlier. I can post one later. I'm on the road. Good luck.