Havving Some problems
#1
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Okay, so its been a while since i bought my 2002 jaguar x-type ( new fuel system) and i seem to be having problems again. First of all, the drivers side, and passenger side air vents don't seem to work, (closet to window), on top of that my suspension is always sqeaking on my drivers side, and i can't figure out how to replace the drivers side headlight, should i take the metal piece out cover the very front top of the engine?
I've been told by some people just to trade it in and buy something more reliable, but i love it and i don't want to do that, how can i fix thses problems and is it worth it to buy sopmething else. a few other problems are, hod cani change the muffler to a magnflow one, and wat kind ofwheels will look great on my car? than you for any and all help.. if i can find some!!!
I've been told by some people just to trade it in and buy something more reliable, but i love it and i don't want to do that, how can i fix thses problems and is it worth it to buy sopmething else. a few other problems are, hod cani change the muffler to a magnflow one, and wat kind ofwheels will look great on my car? than you for any and all help.. if i can find some!!!
#2
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Disco, as for the headlight, are you talking about the bulb only or are you talking about replacing the whole headlight assembly. If you are talking about the bulb, all that takes is opening up the hood, removing the black plastic cover on the back of the headlight assembly. From there you can undo the clip holding the headlight in place. Just be careful pulling out the bulb as the internals are sensitive to extra pressure and can result in breaking the internals. Of note, make sure that you know whether you have HID headlights or halogen headlights. The bulbs are completely different and can't be exchanged.
If you are replacing the headlight assembly, this is a pretty straight forward job too. First, remove the 12 bolts holding the skid plate in place (plastic piece between the frame of the car and the front bumper-requires a T-27 bit to remove the bolts). Next, undo the bottom 2 bolts on each side holding the fender liner to the wheel wells. Now, using a 10mm socket, undo the bolt on the inside edge of the bumper cover (located in the upper corner nearest the tire) on each side. Finally, undo the four 10mm bolts (2 on each side) near the headlight assemblies. Now, gently pull the bumper cover off of the car and rest on the ground (make sure to have a blanket or towels under the bumper to prevent scratching the paint). Now, remove the 10mm bolts holding the headlight assembly to the car. This should take about 30 minutes to complete.
As for the suspension squeak, a lot of us have found that in the rear, it is the upper shock mount that squeaks. Replace your shocks and the sound should go away. If not, then you have a bushing going out and with a little bit of playing, you should be able to determine which bushing it is. Unfortunately, to replace the bushings requires replacing the whole assembly. These pieces are not meant to have just a new bushing installed.
As for the exhaust, your big trick will be getting a muffler with an angled inlet. A good muffler shop should be able to modify an aftermarket muffler to do what you need. Most members have gone with the Borla setup and have been very happy if they have modified their exhaust.
As for the vents, can't help you there. Sounds like one of the dampers is not shifting properly inside of the dash.
If you are replacing the headlight assembly, this is a pretty straight forward job too. First, remove the 12 bolts holding the skid plate in place (plastic piece between the frame of the car and the front bumper-requires a T-27 bit to remove the bolts). Next, undo the bottom 2 bolts on each side holding the fender liner to the wheel wells. Now, using a 10mm socket, undo the bolt on the inside edge of the bumper cover (located in the upper corner nearest the tire) on each side. Finally, undo the four 10mm bolts (2 on each side) near the headlight assemblies. Now, gently pull the bumper cover off of the car and rest on the ground (make sure to have a blanket or towels under the bumper to prevent scratching the paint). Now, remove the 10mm bolts holding the headlight assembly to the car. This should take about 30 minutes to complete.
As for the suspension squeak, a lot of us have found that in the rear, it is the upper shock mount that squeaks. Replace your shocks and the sound should go away. If not, then you have a bushing going out and with a little bit of playing, you should be able to determine which bushing it is. Unfortunately, to replace the bushings requires replacing the whole assembly. These pieces are not meant to have just a new bushing installed.
As for the exhaust, your big trick will be getting a muffler with an angled inlet. A good muffler shop should be able to modify an aftermarket muffler to do what you need. Most members have gone with the Borla setup and have been very happy if they have modified their exhaust.
As for the vents, can't help you there. Sounds like one of the dampers is not shifting properly inside of the dash.
#3
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Hate to ask a dumb question, but do you have the air vents in the open position (rotated the wheel?)
Front or rear drivers side suspension squeak? Most likely swaybar or control arm bushing depending on where. Not major problems.
Drivers side headlight - just remove the rubber cap to gain access to the connections. Shouldn't need to remove much of anything unless your hands are the size of Shaq's.
Borla makes a muffler kit for the 2002 X. Most say its worth the $$.
Wheel style is a personal choice.
EDIT - THERMO BEAT ME TO IT - AGAIN!
Front or rear drivers side suspension squeak? Most likely swaybar or control arm bushing depending on where. Not major problems.
Drivers side headlight - just remove the rubber cap to gain access to the connections. Shouldn't need to remove much of anything unless your hands are the size of Shaq's.
Borla makes a muffler kit for the 2002 X. Most say its worth the $$.
Wheel style is a personal choice.
EDIT - THERMO BEAT ME TO IT - AGAIN!
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#4
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#6
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The rust on the rocker panel is typical of the 02's .... maybe newer ones too...
If you can see it then the damage is extensive. I have seen quotes over 10,000 to do the job right, and some cars were bought back by Jag, others written off...
I would try the dealer, probably the rust was present when the car had corrosion warranty, who sold you the car and who inspected it? someone must share the liability for this very expensive problem.???
If you can see it then the damage is extensive. I have seen quotes over 10,000 to do the job right, and some cars were bought back by Jag, others written off...
I would try the dealer, probably the rust was present when the car had corrosion warranty, who sold you the car and who inspected it? someone must share the liability for this very expensive problem.???
#7
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Disco, if you are looking for the true factory HID system, then you have to convert to the HID headlights. But, there is a cheaper option. The optics of the two headlight assemblies are the same from what I can tell. Therefore, what you can do is get a 35W HID kit from say E-bay and install that into your car. While HID kits can operate without a relay setup, some people have problems with systems that flash the lights and whatnot. With that being said, the X-type is already set up with a relay for the headlights.
With this all being said, notice that I said to get 35W HIDs. Please don't get the 50W HIDs. I know this seems odd since the factory halogen bulbs are 55W bulbs. But trust me, the 35W HID bulbs are much brighter than the 55W halogen bulbs (by about a factor of 3 in lumen intensity). Also keep in mind that with HID bulbs, you have a few choices in color. The factory bulbs from what I can tell are 5000K bulbs (very white light with no colored halo). If you are after maximum light, then you are after 4300K bulbs as these are the brightest of all available. A lot of people like the 6000K bulbs because they have an extremely white light, but also have a blue halo to them. So, the color is up to you.
If you have more questions about HIDs, let me know.
With this all being said, notice that I said to get 35W HIDs. Please don't get the 50W HIDs. I know this seems odd since the factory halogen bulbs are 55W bulbs. But trust me, the 35W HID bulbs are much brighter than the 55W halogen bulbs (by about a factor of 3 in lumen intensity). Also keep in mind that with HID bulbs, you have a few choices in color. The factory bulbs from what I can tell are 5000K bulbs (very white light with no colored halo). If you are after maximum light, then you are after 4300K bulbs as these are the brightest of all available. A lot of people like the 6000K bulbs because they have an extremely white light, but also have a blue halo to them. So, the color is up to you.
If you have more questions about HIDs, let me know.
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#9
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Yeah i purchased the car from a honda dealer, about a couple months ago, its not extensive, but u can notice it after a fe galnces, and this girl in my class used to won it and said there was nothing wrong with it when they traded it in so, i honestly don't know, im wondering if i should just purchase a anit rust electronic defence system and just sand it offf, and paint it, or not worry about it. I would like something cheap and easy to fix, becuase i am a student, and haveplanned for numerous other upgrades to the car this summer
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