Hi all,

A friend of mine has a 2002 X-Type with 55,000 miles on it. The car just failed an emissions test, and she got this code. It sounds like it's an issue with the lower O2 sensor (the one after the catalytic converter).

P0057 Definition: O2 Sensor heater circuit low- 22
Probable causes:
1. Open or short circuit condition
2. Open fuse
3. Failed HO2S 11 (i.e., bad O2 Sensor).

I'm going to try to help her fix it this weekend, and wanted to ask for your help/advice in preparation for tacking the project. The specific questions I have are:

1. Which fuse applies to the lower O2 sensor?

2. Where is the lower O2 sensor located? I'm guessing it's on the exhaust, just after the catalytic converter

3. Does 55K miles seem normal to have to replace an O2 sensor? I thought they were generally good for 90K to 100K miles.

4. Any special tips or precautions in replacing the lower O2 sensor?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!

 

Yeah about the reliability, i bought the car, perfect, pristine, about a week and ahalf later, i get a few warning lights, bad light. Take it in, the code says fuel low in left bank. They fix it up, it needed a brand new fuel system, a complete tune up and nemerous othe rthings, it was done free but they wouldnt tell me how much it was. luckly i was under the 3 week waranty

 

Matt,
It is usually the O2 in the cats that go bad first, the upper ones. I think the "BANK 2" is referring to the left cylinder bank which is located nearest the front of the car. You could spend $100 for each 4 wire O2 sensor. You should first get a JTIS manual and test it electrically. DO NOT buy after market crap, you'll be sorry. The factory O2 is the only way to go. They have different designs on the uppers and the lowers.

FUSE LOCATIONS
The fuse locations can be found in the FAQ section or https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=10712 .

O2 LOCATIONs
You have 4 O2s on this car. Upper O2s are in the CATALITIC CONVERTER and the Lower are just downstream. The Bank 1 O2 are not nearly as accessible since they reside in the back side of the engine compartment near the firewall. Bank 2 is in the front of the engine compartment.

MILAGE
It's not unheard of at 55,000. There are sever contributors to fouled O2s. GAS quality & engine maintaince are a couple. This engine runs HOT and oil is it's life fluid. Hot oil does not last as long, it breaks down faster. Oil change for this ride is a mandatory change at approx 3000 miles, even with synthetic. Dirty injectors can cause problems. Bad plugs or the wrong type of plugs. Do the homework on this car. If you want to keep it running like a top. It cannot handle neglect and will let you know pretty quickly that you are not paying enough attention.

Don't be surprised if after replacing the lower you have to replace the upper. They in concert with each other and when one goes bad even the TECHS have a hard time fixing the right one.

DO NOT JACK the vehicle up via the front sub-frame or suspension. Use a strong piece of steel with wood blocks at either end and jack the "body" at the appropriate front lift points.

 

Jeff, thank you for the excellent reply! It's extremely helpful, and I appreciate your insight.

So...funny story - I get to my friends place today to help her fix her X-Type. The only code she'd told me about was the P0057 code, which seemed to point to the O2 sensors. I plug in my OBDII Diagnostic tool to verify the code, and find out that she's actually got 8 (!) different fault codes listed:

P0171 System too lean (Bank 1)
P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire detected
P0305 Cylinder 5 misfire detected
P0306 Cylinder 6 misfire detected
P1316 Manufacturer controlled ignition system or misfire
P0057 H20S Bank 2, Sensor 2, Heater Circuit Low
P1111 Manufacturer controlled fuel and air metering
P1000 Manufacturer controlled fuel and air metering and auxilliary emission controls

Oh man! Turns out her check engine light's been on for about 5 months, but she ignored it because the car seemed to be driving fine. When the engine's turned on, I hear a loud hissing sound (like a major air leak) that sounds like it's coming from around the air intake area. After doing a bit of research, I'm thinking she may have a vaccuum leak in that area, which may be triggering some (if not the majority) of the codes above. She's going to take it into the dealership to diagnose the issue next week.

Thanks again for your help! This is great information to have when I'm ready to change my O2 sensors.

 

Likely the hissing is the leak at the IMT o-rings and the lean condition. Search it as it's an easy fix. Hopefully leaving it unchecked hasn't caused the 02 sensor and misfire problems.

 

***This engine runs HOT and oil is it's life fluid. Hot oil does not last as long, it breaks down faster. Oil change for this ride is a mandatory change at approx 3000 miles, even with synthetic. ****

Where do you come up with that wisdom? How hot does it run??? MANDATORY @ 3000???
Not saying changing oil every 3000 is bad but how can you say it is MADATORY? I also have a hard time beliving the engine runs any hotter than any other car's engine. Also, anyone dumping synthetic oil evety 3000 is just wasting their money. You may as well just use regular oil if you are going to be changing it that often.

 

Thanks for the lead, mohrd. I just did a quick search, and it does seem like the potential culprit. I'll pass the information on to my friend. I appreciate your help!

 

JagXV6,
After OIL FAILURE in my X-type I have done quite abit of research on oil and what it is affected by. The ONLY reason for synthetic is for the adhesion properties and the resistance to thermal breakdown. IT DOES breakdown however. Your are correct that one should use good ole GTX with maybe a little bit of Lucas added in proper quantity. The ENGINE runs HOT due to the 1500/2000 degree CATS nestled where? Right next to what? An aluminum block and heads. What is a skillet made from? Aluminum, if you want it to heat up fast. OIL in this environment has a very short life. Once it collapses and is only a fluid you will not see any warning lights since pressure still exists. This is when you bearings begin to get chewed up.

Of course it's your engine and you have a right to disagree and go by your own personal experience and change oil whenever. I would encourage you to do some searching on the subject of oil as a lubricant.

As for my X-Type, I will change the filter and oil every 3000 miles, just to on the safe side. I like to keep my rides for at least 10 years. This one is such a joy maybe for much longer.

 

And I'd encorage you to do some research on Cats and what temp they operate at. 2000 degress?!?!?! Aluminum melts at 1220. A cat on a properly tuned car runs nowhere near
2000 degrees. Hell the exhaust coming out of the engine is not even close to that. I've tuned engines using EGTs and if it is running @ 2000 that is one lean mixture!

Again, change your oil all you want, I have no problem with that. What I have a problem is is all inclusive blanket statements (MANDATORY oil changes at 3000 miles) based on one datum point obseravtions.

 

Calm down, The reference to temps IS NOT outside temp but internal temps. Yes there are cats that run close to 2000 degrees and the "normal" operating temp internal is 1000 to 1300 degrees. Now how many cats do you have? How much heat is radiated by those cats?

As for a blanket statement as "Mandatory" well I am entitled to my opinion and observations. That is what is being asked for in these forums. Your opinion based upon experience and observation. Now before my Oil Failure my opinion was 5K on synthetic. Well, there are several factors that come into play. How one drives, I drive hard and fast. Engine never gets to rest until I'm done. Rev's up then down, then up. You get the picture. HARD miles. So it is MANDATORY for my changes to be 3000 miles. If you drive easy, not racy, and ease off a stop light or sign then you could maybe get longer life from your oil. This will still not cool those cats down. Aluminum is a great Thermal sponge.

 

Don't worry, I am not geting hot like a cat!

I guess you need to explain what you mean by an "oil failue"? Did you lose an engine?
Did you send the oil out for an analysis? How long was the failed oil in before it was changed?

Also, 2000 degrees is not a normal operating temp for any Cat. At that temp the catalyst starts to melt and the cat will soon fail. Lets just leave it at a Cat runs hot--ok?