Hey guys, Im hoping I can find someone with a similar issue to mine:

I have a 2003 X Type 2.5 & its been driving me nuts. Something is wrong with the car as recently it keeps dying on me. It drived fine, then all of a sudden shuts off. The motor cranks, but there is no fuel and no spark.

Ive brought it to Jag twice last week. They said the fuel pump is fine. They found a few corroded pins and replaced some stuff. It dives for 3 days, then dead again.

Once I brought it back, they said they worked on the electronics under the back seat, and now its in the front end. They claimed they cleaned some stuff up etc etc. Nothing replaced.

Both times charged $350+ and the problem is still happening! Im not sure if this was related, but I got a "cruise control not available" fault. Its with Jag right now and they are clueless there.

Any ideas guys? Any help you can give would be great!!!

 

Maybe a good idea to look INERTIA SWITCH for poor connection

 

FrancoG, how are you with a multimeter? If you are willing to do some of your own investigation and know how to use a multimeter (or can follow directions really good), then we can help you narrow down the problem. Let me know your abilities and then we can take it from there. if it is electrical, should be able to figure out the problem in no time flat. As for the fix, that will depend on the problem.

 

I really have no idea about this kind of stuff. Shouldnt the dealership know how to do this? Inertia switch is fine, they are saying the fuel pump is fine... but one would assume that the *********** would have the diagnostics and expertise to find out what the problem is! This is the 3rd day ion the shop and they have no answers!

I dont know what the heck to do...

 

Franco, finding intermittent faults can be a real PITA. Trust me, i have to deal wtih this on a day in, day out situation. That is why if the car fails, you can troubleshoot it right then so the fault is in play. After awhile the dealership is just going to start replacing parts and hope that they get it right in one of the first tries. BUt, as you can imagine, this can get expensive fast.

I wish I had better answers, but there is only so much that can be done.

 

Chris, I have the same problem on my 2003 X-Type, 2.5L, just turned 60K miles. Mine is a random engine cut-off in traffic. My engine just dies in traffic without any warning with roughness, misfires, or anything of the sort. One moment it's running as smooth as an electric motor and the next moments my red dashboard lights all come on; of course, indicating that the engine just died. When I coast to a stop, and try to restart it, the engine will spin nicely and quickly, but it will fire up. However, if it sits for about 15 minutes to a half hour, it will fire up again and run like a charm. As for the car's usual behavior, it starts well in the mornings, it's very peppy, accelerates quickly and smoothly without any sort of hesitation whatsoever. It just dies randomly in traffic. Other posts on the UK Jaguar Forum site indicated things to look at such as the Cam Position Sensor, check the Inertia Switch for loose connections, check Fuel Pump, Fuel Relay and Fuel Filter.

I changed the fuel filter and ran a combination of gas additives that clean the injectors, clean the fuel system and intake manifold, and gas additive to remove water from the fuel and help eliminate seizing of the fuel line. I'm not sure any of this stuff really made any difference because the care still dies randomly. The car may go for two months without cutting out or it may cut out the following day. It's very unpredicatable and without any sort of warning. The check engine light did not come on during any of these dieing episodes.

The purpose of this message is to get some guidance as how to best begin the diagnostics (process of elimination) and not just assume that the fuel system seizes and no fuel is getting to the injectors. The Cam Position Sensor has been a culprit of same cut-outs in my other car and the problem went away after the Cam Position Sensor was replaced.

When the car gets stuck in traffic, it's a little ackward to attempt to make any meaningful troubleshooting. It's easier to just wait 15-30 minutes and fire it up again, and drive back home. By that time, it is running great and what would I diagnose if the problem does not exist at that moment. I also want to, hopefully, eliminate the high pressure fuel pump and save myself a big weekend job at home.

I'm pretty mechanically inclined, I can read a voltmeter/multimeter, and can follow instructions well. Any help you can provide in pointing me towards the path that I should begin troubleshooting with, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks much.

 

Codes????

 

Correction to my earlier post: After the car coasts to a stop, it will not fire up. It will just keep spinning as though it is not receiving any fuel. About a half hour later, she'll fire up just fine and run as smoothly as though nothing happened.
'Will get back to you regarding any code readings.

 

Franco,
bmc,

The symptoms that both of you describe could be caused by a crankshaft sensor that fails open (no continuity) when it gets hot enough. Without a crankshaft sensor signal, the computer thinks the engine is not running, so it doesn't fire the spark plugs or the injectors. If you wait for the crankshaft sensor to cool down, continuity is often restored and the engine runs as if nothing ever happened.

There generally is no diagnostic code associated with a failed crankshaft sensor since no engine control parameters go "out of range".

The best way to confirm a bad crankshaft sensor - albeit not very practical - is to immediately measure the resistance across the sensor terminals when the engine dies. Another way is to remove the sensor from the engine and measure the resistance before, during and after heating the sensor with hot air (i.e., hair dryer). If heating the sensor can make it go open-circuit, you have you smoking gun!

Mark

 

Thank you very much. I agree with you. Since this is not a very expensive item, I will go ahead and change it anyway. I had to do the same thing to my previous Buick Regal, and the problem went away after changing the cam sensor unit.

Would you happen to know where these sensors are located? Near the crankshaft pulley or near the vave covers? I ordered a Jaguar repair manual CD and it should be arriving any day, and I'll refer to that if need be. The Buick's v6, 3.8L, cam position sensor was located "behind" the crankshaft pulley, and it was a real, real bear to remove. I hope Ford made it easier for us on these engines (2.5L).

Thanks for your help.

Regards,
bmc

PS: on the UK's Jaguar Forum site I printed directions for replacing the oil pan gasket and directions for replacing the alternator on the 2.5L, just in case someone decides to tackle those jobs themselves.
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bmc, the crankshaft sensor is down near the crankshaft pulley. I don't think it is too hard to get it, just need to get the car up in the air a little bit so you can get your head in the area.

 

Do to remove the wheel on the passenger side to get to it easier or is it removed solely from the underside? Mine looks like there is some sort of shield or pan underneath. I am looking down from under the hood and cannot see the driveway underneath but see what looks like a pan.