2002 X type, 3.0, 82,000 miles
I was almost empty on gas yesterday, (range said 32 miles)
filled up with regular gas and as soon as we pulled out of the station, the engine light came on, started blinking. The Jag was running rough, wouldn't hold it's speed very well, then the "Cruise Not Available" error came up on the dash.
When we got back to town pulled into Advanced auto to have them read the codes for me.
I got codes;
P1111 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit Intermittent High Voltage

P1314 Misfire Rate Catalyst Damage Fault - Bank 2

P1316 Injector Circuit / IDM Codes Detected

Talked with the most knowledgeable guy there and he said I should put a can of NOS/Nitrous Oxide Systems Octane Booster that also cleans the injectors.
He also told me that using regular instead of premium will screw things up and that the Jag is designed and everything is set up for premium instead of regular.
This morning I also read that symptoms of a faulty MAF sensor can include difficulty starting, hesitation or surging under load, a rough idle, a 'hiccup' when rapidly accelerating. In automatic transmissions rapid or erratic gear change can flag transmission errors "Cruise Not Available" errors.
So this morning I am going to spray the MAF out and see if that helps.

Is there anything else I can check?

 

Jim, first off, the reading for the P1111 code is wrong. P1111 for Jaguars means that everything is good and that there are no issues.

The P1314 code is correct for what you were told. But, the P1316 code is wrong as this is another code for excessive misfire (more of a general code where the P1314 code is specific to bank 2). Granted, I also think that you were not given all the codes as the P1314/P1316 codes will only appear when you also have a misfire of one or more cylinders that throws a code (P0300 thru P0306).

Based on what you say happened, odds are, you have a car that does not like regular gas. Yes, some people have been able to get away with using regular in their tanks and not have any issues. But, others, like you are experiencing, can not get away with it. You can try putting in a few bottles of the octane booster and see what happens there, but odds are, you are going to need to drain some of the fuel out and then bump up the fuel with some premium fuel (if you can find some racing gas, that will be better as the octane rating of that is around 115 normally and that will boost the overall octane back up to where it needs to be faster, just make sure that it is unleaded).

In short, what is happening is your engine was trying to retard the timing to prevent it from knocking. It reached a point where it exceeded its allowable adjustments and then throws a code. Octane allows the engine to advance the timing some without knocking which then allows more power to be obtained.

 

So do you think I should try cleaning the MAF or just concentrate on getting the BP regular gas out of there and refilling with premium ?
Is there an easy way to drain 10 gallons out of the tank?

 

I have only had this Jag for two weeks and have filled up with regular 3 times, the third time now is when the problem happened...

 

Jim, keep in mind that every station gets a slightly different blend of gas and that the rating on the pump is just the minimum that it needs to meet. So, if you stop at one station and use "87 octane" gas, it may actually be 90 octane gas (just has to meet the minimum of 87). Where, if you stop by that same station another day or stop at a different station, getting "87 octane" gas again, it may actually be 87.5 octane gas. That small variance is enough to make the car act up. Most stations tend to run a point or two above what the pump is rated for just to make sure that they meet the minimum.

As for what to do, you don't need to drain say 10 gallons, but I would get say 4 gallons (or the gas gauge down to the 1/2 to 3/4 mark). Then put in premium fuel. The first minute after this may still have the car running a little rough (since you have nothing but the regular in the fuel line), but once you get the mixed gas, it should even out some. I would say to go for a drive and simply be easy on the gas.

As for the MAF sensor, cleaning that is always a good idea. It is not going to hurt anything.

Also keep in mind that the lights will not go out right away after filling. The computer will monitor things for 5 drive cycles (about 10 miles for each cycle) and if the codes are not coming back, on your 6th start, it will turn the CEL light out. You can get around this by simply using your own reader and clearing the codes after a few mile drive with the new gas. If the lights come back then, you have a bigger issue.

 

Thank you, Thermo.

 

I took the car to my mechanic and he read the codes with a better reader than Advanced auto has, he got the same codes but also got misfire on #2 cylinder, he told me to change plugs and get the premium in there, he also said the code, P1314 Misfire Rate Catalyst Damage Fault - Bank 2 means my cat converter is going bad and that if nothing else works he can remove the cats and put some straight pipe in, instead of running with the cats. So I went to our muffler guy he put the Jag on the hoist, and read the temps on my front cat. it was 575 degrees. Muffler guy said it could be running hot because of the misfiring, and also said on this Jag I cannot run without the cats and new cats installed, $1800 if thats what I want to do.
Going for another ride out in the country to burn off some of the regular fuel then add the premium to it.
Let ya know what happens

 

Jim, like was said at the muffler shop, you can not run without the cats unless you modify some other things in the process. How the computer figures out if you have a P1314/P1316 code is by looking for a difference in the O2 levels between the upstream and downstream O2 sensor readings (ie, the catalytic converter using some of the left over oxygen to burn the remainder of the fuel before being expelled out the back of the car). If you remove the cats, then there will be the same O2 levels at both sensors and therefore you will get codes galore.

Hopefully I explained things without getting too technical on you.

 

Plus, I do not know how you would ever pass the emission test in Wisconsin without catalytic converters.

Did you have any performance issues with the car before you put that regular gas in? Check engine light? If not, then more than likely once you get that gas cycled through you should be ok. Just seems like too much of a coincidence you would have those drivability issues out of the blue like that.

Good luck, let us know how it turns out.

 

Just got back from putting in 7 gallons of 93 octane premium and a bottle of octane boost, then drove 40 miles out in the country at speeds from 30mph to 75mph and there is no change at all. engine light comes on and when the cruise not available comes on the engine light still flashes. Don't know what else I can do besides dropping a $1000 bill on a crap-shoot that Jaguar can diagnose and fix what's going on.
Like I said before, just funny to me it all started as we pulled away from the pumps after filling up with BP regular Sunday.
Saturday when I went to work and back the car ran flawless, 85 miles round trip to work and back, even got her up to 100mph on the interstate for a couple miles and ran great... Hmmmmm

 

Alfadude, I don't live along Lake Michigan, here in the south-central part of Wi, we don't have to do emission testing.

 

Jim, just to ask a final silly question, is this a gas station that you normally fill up at? I guess my thinking at the moment is that you may have gotten some gas with some water in it. That could possibly cause what you are seeing.

The long straw in all of this is that you happen to have a minor oil leak and simply you have a little bit of oil in plug 2 that is causing that cylinder to misfire, leading to what you are seeing. Fortunately for you, plug #2 just happens to be the easiest to get to. If you open the hood and find the airbox, it is just to the left of it. Should be able to get at it without removing anything. Once you pull the coil off of the plug, it will be fairly obvious if you have oil there or not. I would also check the wiring since you are right there too. See if it has any funny bends to it or the insulation on the wiring is damaged. It may just be coincidence.

 

Very helpful.
I normally go to Mobile which is across town on my way to work but Sunday mornings we go the other direction out of town (for free walleye and chicken wings at out favorite pub) and thought I would just fill up at the BP closest to the way we were heading.

I think I'm going to start going to another mechanic as this guy told me #2 was in the back and had to take off manifold to get to #2. This mechanic just installed my new front struts along with link ends and bushings for rear sway bar last Friday.
I have been reading here a lot and see many people are getting these codes from vacuum leaks. I listened very carefully Sunday under the hood for any, like brake booster leaking and all that, nothing at all, everything looks very good under there.
Someone told me that with all the rain we had last week, (7" in 2 days) that if they had bad in ground tanks that water could leech into their tanks of gas....

 

I was thinking about changing the fuel filter this coming weekend along with maybe changing the intake gaskets and swapping the coils around with new plugs also.
Is this the layout of the firing order on my '02 3.0?

 

Thermo, I see you are in Great Mills Md. I grew up in Maryland, Upper Marlboro and Rockville. Don't know if you could ever here radio from the Washington area but my brother had a show there for 20+ years, the Don & Mike show.
Lived at Ocean City every summer... Coming back out there to OC in Sept...

 

Would that cause it to just happen all of a sudden?

Will the misfire tear up the cats if I drive it to work and back til this coming weekend?

 

Flashing normally means cat damage is occurring. Usually a bad coil, may or may not be oil on it & may or may not be OK if cleaned.

 

Thermo was right, I did have oil around the base of #2 and #6 plugs. What causes this?

 

JIm, the oil in the plug well is normally caused by a leaking seal at the top of the well (the joint between the plug well and the valve cover). This is normally a very slow leak. So, a good cleaning and you will go good for a long time. But, probably want to do a check up on it in say a month just to make sure. Worst case, you can pull the valve cover off and put on a new set of seals. Not that hard of a job and not too bad cost wise either.