hi-beam malfunction!
#1
hi-beam malfunction!
Hey all!
I'm having a funky new problem that just started last night (well.... first noticed it last night)
My hi-beams work on the flash-to-pass, but won;t stay in the "on" position. Now, I'll admit with a sheepish grin that I can't even remember the intuitive function control, because it always just did what I needed.... is it "pull-towards" you and it should stay 'on'? right?
either way, it;s not.
so I noticed last night as well that I have a low-beam out (drivers' side), could that have something to do with it?
How does this whole thing work?
I'm having a funky new problem that just started last night (well.... first noticed it last night)
My hi-beams work on the flash-to-pass, but won;t stay in the "on" position. Now, I'll admit with a sheepish grin that I can't even remember the intuitive function control, because it always just did what I needed.... is it "pull-towards" you and it should stay 'on'? right?
either way, it;s not.
so I noticed last night as well that I have a low-beam out (drivers' side), could that have something to do with it?
How does this whole thing work?
#2
Join Date: May 2008
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jag-ooo-r, the high beams and low beams are completely independent of each other. So, having a low beam out is completely irrelevant to your high beam issue. As for your high beams not staying on, the high beams in my car function by pushing the turn signal stalk forward and it will lock there, keeping the high beams on. Then you can pull back to use the flash to pass feature. If your turn signal stalk is not staying forward, then you have a mechanical problem with the turn signal stalk and you need a new one.
#3
jag-ooo-r, the high beams and low beams are completely independent of each other. So, having a low beam out is completely irrelevant to your high beam issue. As for your high beams not staying on, the high beams in my car function by pushing the turn signal stalk forward and it will lock there, keeping the high beams on. Then you can pull back to use the flash to pass feature. If your turn signal stalk is not staying forward, then you have a mechanical problem with the turn signal stalk and you need a new one.
sunnuva....!!!!
well.... mine actually will NOT push forward..... so I must have a problem....
#4
I have accually fixed this on a different car and it was the contact inside the column were broke.If you attempt this USE CAUTION IN REMOVING THE AIR BAG UNIT. Can't say it loud enough!!! disconnect all battery power and then make sure there is NO static anywhere and set it on a soft static-free surface. The contact are gold to the bag unit so BE CAREFUL.If that bag discharges you will get hurt!!!!
#5
You DO NOT need to remove anything but the column cover halves to remove the turn signal switch. It simply slides onto plastic tracks on the column and locks there with a plastic lock clip.
Pull the column cover(phillips screws under the column....you'll see them.....squish the bottom section to disengage the little snap-together tangs and separate the top and bottom halves), unclip the switch, then unclip the switch's wiring harness. Check the harness and switch electrical connection points for burnt pins. If the pinouts aren't burnt, try this. Using your remote fob hit the headlight button....do the highbeams come on and stay on?
If not, the GEM (General Electrical Module) might be bad.
The turn/headlight switch is a simple momentary contact device that sends a volt spike to the GEM. The GEM energizes/de-energizes voltage to the highbeam relay on successive pulls on the switch lever. If the GEM's solid-state circuit is cooked, the headlights won't stay on with either the column switch or the remote fob. However the 'flash' function of the headlight switch directly energizes the highbeam relay without going through the GEM, ergo it will work. The downside is that you would need to hold the stalk back while driving.
I went through all this a while back after purchasing a used X. It had the identical symptoms you're experiencing, but my problem turned out to be a cut wire (the ground from the headlight switch) to the GEM. If your highs were working and then just quit, it's more likely component failure.
Post your findings back to this thread and I'll give you some more checks to do that might narrow down the problem. Good luck!
Pull the column cover(phillips screws under the column....you'll see them.....squish the bottom section to disengage the little snap-together tangs and separate the top and bottom halves), unclip the switch, then unclip the switch's wiring harness. Check the harness and switch electrical connection points for burnt pins. If the pinouts aren't burnt, try this. Using your remote fob hit the headlight button....do the highbeams come on and stay on?
If not, the GEM (General Electrical Module) might be bad.
The turn/headlight switch is a simple momentary contact device that sends a volt spike to the GEM. The GEM energizes/de-energizes voltage to the highbeam relay on successive pulls on the switch lever. If the GEM's solid-state circuit is cooked, the headlights won't stay on with either the column switch or the remote fob. However the 'flash' function of the headlight switch directly energizes the highbeam relay without going through the GEM, ergo it will work. The downside is that you would need to hold the stalk back while driving.
I went through all this a while back after purchasing a used X. It had the identical symptoms you're experiencing, but my problem turned out to be a cut wire (the ground from the headlight switch) to the GEM. If your highs were working and then just quit, it's more likely component failure.
Post your findings back to this thread and I'll give you some more checks to do that might narrow down the problem. Good luck!
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