Hello Thermo and everyone,
In your thread about cleaning the caliper to release stuck hand/ e-brake
E-brake lever sticking - Fix +1
could you answer my queries please?

1. I don't need to change brake fluid and don't want to get air into the system
so will clamping the hose close to where it meets the caliper be sufficient?

2. what are the dimensions of the wind-back tool?

3. nearly all the sets of Torx bits don't have the 28mm bit? e.g.

4. 14mm pentagon socket. fyi
4149 14mm Pentagon ½

5. the third photo in your aforementioned thread has the piston at its max, as tho old pads were down to their metal backing? Any special instrs on this? obviously wound in opposite to putting new pads in?

6. dennis black said he didn't need to remove caliper. Does this mean there will be no loss of fluid/air ingress if I try this way as my first attmpt?

Thanks
turnbui

 

turnbui, when you tear into the caliper, you WILL!!!!! introduce air into the system. Bleeding of the caliper afterwords is a MUST DO!!!!!!! thing. No way around it.

As for the wind back tool, go to your local auto parts store and look for the brake caliper tool (see OEM/Rear disc brake cube for use with 3/8 in. drive tool (25071) | Brake Tool | AutoZone.com). This is a 1.5x1.5x1.5" metal block with a few different posts on it. Twist the block around until the posts line up with the slots on the piston of the caliper. From there, know which way you need to turn the caliper and twist away.

The torx bit that you are after is not a 28mm torx bit, it is a T-28 bit. Slight difference.

The socket that you reference is the socket that you will need.

As for the piston, you do not necessarily need the piston all the way out to start pushing the rubber dust boot off of the piston, but the further out the piston is, the less times you have to go back and forth between trying to push the boot down and twisting the piston so that it moves further out. Once you get the caliper off, twist the piston some more till it is all the way out. You are not going to hurt anything.

What Dennis is referring to is only oiling/greasing the e-brake lever. Yes, if you are only greasing/oiling that lever, then there is no need to tear into things. If you are talking about pulling the piston out of the caliper to rebuild the caliper, you WILL!!!! have to remove the caliper from the car, dismantle the caliper to the point that you will allow fluid to run out of the caliper, which in turn is going to introduce air into the system. So, a bleeding of the brake system will be required. I would no advise pinching the brake line closed. This can potentially damage the line, requiring replacement of the line (new lines runs about $25, just had to replace one of mine).

So, when you go to tear into the caliper like I mention, have a pint of brake fluid (Dot 3&4 full synthetic fluid) handy. Also, get yourself about 4 feet of 5/32(?) ID tygon tubing. You will slip this on to the bleeder nipple, loop the tygon up to the top of the wheel well (tape in place with some masking tape) and then let the tygon hang down with the end in a glass jar or similar device to catch any fluid that comes out. From there, top up the brake fluid reservoir, pump the brakes a few times, check the level in the reservoir (top up if needed), verify that you are getting fluid out the tygon. Pump the brakes a few more times (do not forget to check the fluid level, adding as needed) and keep pumping the brakes until you see that the fluid coming out is free of air and more than likely you will also see the fluid go from a dark green to a almost clear color. At this point, tighten the bleeder valve and then remove the tygon. The caliper should be air free.

If you have any more questions, just ask. Once you do this, you will be amazed as to how easy this is to do. The big thing is not destroying the dust seal on the piston. Worst case, you have to purchase a $12 caliper rebuild kit.

 

Thanks Thermo. Might as well change the fluid then.
cheers

 

Good luck on the caliper rebuild turnbui.

If you are pulling the piston from the caliper, do as Thermo mentioned with the square cube tool (rotate counterclockwise to remove the piston, clockwise to reinsert). The piston should come out as you rotate ccw, force will be needed upon reinsertion + cw rotation.

You can 'clamp' the rubber section of brake hose, but take caution there are special tools to do so (or you can fab your own = needle nose vice grips w rubber hose on each end). Take notice that clamping the hose may not entirely stop air from entering the system, bleeding will be required either way (or anytime the brake system is opened). The clamping is helpful in greatly reducing the brake fluid run off, air entered in the brake system & most importantly the mess of brake fluid.

You will be able to completely remove the caliper & work on it at your bench, etc. Be sure to keep things as clean as possible & avoid contact with painted surfaces (brake fluid is nasty stuff!).

Cheers, Artax