How much does that oil leak really bother you?
#1
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A few weeks ago in a post I mentioned I had a small leak coming from the oil pan. BRUTAL was nice enough to PM me some small things to try that might stop it before I take the plunge to replacing the gasket. Well they didn’t work but it was worth a shot and after all it is a very small leak, not even ½ a quart every 2 months. So I wasn’t going to mess with it anymore but I got a ad in the mail for a shop near my office that does nothing but Land Rovers and Jags so I thought I’d run by there and see what they would charge to change it. Now it’s not that I have anything against the dealers here, well except the one on the Northside. We have 3 here in Houston, one North, one in the middle and one South (that’s BRUTAL’s, haven’t been there yet because we are about as far away from each other as we can be and still be in Houston about 45 miles) Anyway, out of the three I‘ve been to two and the work was fine it was the service rep’s I had issues with especially the one up North who lost my key and claimed she never had it. So anyway I thought I’d see what this shop had to offer and while I have never gotten a price from one of the dealerships to change the gasket I cant imagine it would be much more. Now keep in mind I have changed many oil pan gaskets in my life, from Chevy’s to Porsche’s and never spent more then $150 and that includes the oil so I almost fell over when he told me $1050.00 for labor and $35 for the gasket then more for the oil depending on which brand I went with. Now I know this is a pain to get to because of the T/C but HOLY CRAP. So I did some math….. I use Royal Purple, about $8 a quart and I am using about ½ a quart every month and a half to two months. So I figure at my current rate of oil consumption I can keep adding oil for the next 43 years and 4 months before I get to $1,200.00 for a gasket. Now I’m no economist (and right now it doesn’t seem like they are all that bright) but adding oil seem like the financially responsible thing to do.
#2
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...and if you used cheaper oil, like Mobil 1, the time to recover the cost of the oil pan gasket repair would only be about 86 years!
I've conceded to replacing the oil pan gasket on my wife's Intrigue. I'm doing it only because I hate the spots it makes on the driveway and garage floorand the job should cost about $5 for the RTV and about 4 or 5 hours of my labor. If I had to pay someone for this repair, I'd sell the car first.
I'm guessing the value of your Jag will not change whether you make the repair or not.
Care to share the "tricks" to replacing the X-type oil pan gasket in less time? ...for future reference!
I've conceded to replacing the oil pan gasket on my wife's Intrigue. I'm doing it only because I hate the spots it makes on the driveway and garage floorand the job should cost about $5 for the RTV and about 4 or 5 hours of my labor. If I had to pay someone for this repair, I'd sell the car first.
I'm guessing the value of your Jag will not change whether you make the repair or not.
Care to share the "tricks" to replacing the X-type oil pan gasket in less time? ...for future reference!
#3
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#4
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I don't know, I'm scared. You know what they say about a little knowledge...
Honestly though, I wouldn't wish the X-type oil pan gasket repair on anyone that had to do it on their back in the driveway regardless of which method is used to get the job done. Now, if you are using a hoist(lift), that's another ballgame. Just thinking about removing the 2 rusty,seized exhaust nuts from the front pipe and then beating the flange off of the studs and pipe while laying under the car on jack stands in the driveway gives me nightmares. That's just step one. Then you have a couple more rusty seized bolts to deal with for the front catalyst bracket where I normally have to pound a socket one size down from standard on to the bolt head because the rust has shrunk the head. If you get that far and haven't called a tow truck yet, you still have to deal with the obstructed bolt above the transfercase. Whether you go with the t-case removal route, the unibit method or the air hammer and torch method none of them would be what I call a fun afternoon with the Jaguar. Access to pretty much all the t-case bolts and related brackets is very limited and you can barely see these fasteners when the car is on the lift and trying to get a few of these loosened properly on your back in the driveway wouldn't be easy. At the same time drilling through an inch and a half of aluminum with a unibit and getting the hole straight while laying on your back really isn't that much easier. Just think about how I would feel if I had to use the cutting torch to cut a bolt that was 16" above my face while laying on my back looking straight up at the bolt to make sure i didn't cut through the oil pan flange. Hot slag down your shirt while working under the car on a lift is bad enough and at least you can jump around like you're on fire(actually you are) when you're standing under the hoist but laying on your back with hot slag falling in your face doesn't do it for me. I think I'd rather pay someone with a lift to do the job.
Honestly though, I wouldn't wish the X-type oil pan gasket repair on anyone that had to do it on their back in the driveway regardless of which method is used to get the job done. Now, if you are using a hoist(lift), that's another ballgame. Just thinking about removing the 2 rusty,seized exhaust nuts from the front pipe and then beating the flange off of the studs and pipe while laying under the car on jack stands in the driveway gives me nightmares. That's just step one. Then you have a couple more rusty seized bolts to deal with for the front catalyst bracket where I normally have to pound a socket one size down from standard on to the bolt head because the rust has shrunk the head. If you get that far and haven't called a tow truck yet, you still have to deal with the obstructed bolt above the transfercase. Whether you go with the t-case removal route, the unibit method or the air hammer and torch method none of them would be what I call a fun afternoon with the Jaguar. Access to pretty much all the t-case bolts and related brackets is very limited and you can barely see these fasteners when the car is on the lift and trying to get a few of these loosened properly on your back in the driveway wouldn't be easy. At the same time drilling through an inch and a half of aluminum with a unibit and getting the hole straight while laying on your back really isn't that much easier. Just think about how I would feel if I had to use the cutting torch to cut a bolt that was 16" above my face while laying on my back looking straight up at the bolt to make sure i didn't cut through the oil pan flange. Hot slag down your shirt while working under the car on a lift is bad enough and at least you can jump around like you're on fire(actually you are) when you're standing under the hoist but laying on your back with hot slag falling in your face doesn't do it for me. I think I'd rather pay someone with a lift to do the job.
#5
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LoL...A definitive how not to there by Real Tech
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Does NOT sound like fun at all and probably gonna end up halfway through and havin to go to the dealer anyway seems to be the message!
Maybe thats where the $1100 + comes in? Even so....lotta greenbacks!
No one out there done this? Anyone prepared to offer a write up c/w pics?
Sounds like a candidate for the next " definitive how to " for me
#6
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I have no doubt it's hard, I've been under there and seen it. Having had AWD and 4WD before I can honestly say this one was drawn up by an idiot. But I bought it and I do enjoy driving it. All I am saying is for the amount I'm leaking I'll keep adding before I spend $1100 for a gasket. I bought and changed every gasket myself in my 1977 Porsche 911 2.7 liter for less then $500. As far as Obama's plan I'd have to leak like the Exxon Valdez before I cared if he approved.
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#9
#10
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That sucks. Ever try contacting brutal to see about a weekend meet up with some added beer and gratuity?
Fortunately for myself I had select edition when my car needed the oil pan gasket. My oil leak was so minimal it didn't leak on the ground but irritated the life out of me when my "jaguar" was leaking oil and getting stuff underneath coated in oil.
How does the underneath of your car look? My mountaineer that lived it's entire life here in tx looks spotless underneath. A quick wash would make it look brand new. Those bolts should be in pretty good shape unless you guys get salt down in houston???
Fortunately for myself I had select edition when my car needed the oil pan gasket. My oil leak was so minimal it didn't leak on the ground but irritated the life out of me when my "jaguar" was leaking oil and getting stuff underneath coated in oil.
How does the underneath of your car look? My mountaineer that lived it's entire life here in tx looks spotless underneath. A quick wash would make it look brand new. Those bolts should be in pretty good shape unless you guys get salt down in houston???
#11
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Nope, no salt in Houston. Underneath has a little oil, not too bad becuse most of it seems to hit the exhaust burn up and make for a nasty smell from time to time. But the leak is so little I dont have any spots on my driveway or my parking spot at work. BRUTAL and I have exchanged a few PM's about it and he has offered to help if I decide to fix it. I dont know if I will, I was really just having fun witht he fact that it cost 10 times more then any othe oil pan gasket I've ever had.
Thanks again BRUTAL.
Thanks again BRUTAL.
#12
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Houston we have a problem!!!!!!!!!!!
I'd say if you have the money and are sure that the shop can honestly do the job then have them do it. $1085 is less than half of the quote that I got from a dealership in Omaha in 2007. Their quote was $218.69 for (stuff to do the oil pan gasket) their exact words, and $2100 labor. That's right $2318.69, I've got the paper right here in front of me. Obviously I said no, it still leaks but only a few drops and every time I run through the car wash I have it sprayed underneath. When it's parked in the garage I have a little pile of kitty litter to collect what drips. Of course my leak is quite small and isn't really noticable on the dipstick between oil changes.
I might mention that this dealership is the same one that wanted me to replace the transmission because the original battery had leaked and somewhat damaged the transmission wiring harness connector (which the genius engineers have located directly under the battery). They said since the wiring harness is hard wired into the transmission the only solution was to replace the transmission. The transmission exchange was going to cost $2910 plus the other harness that plugs into it's harness plus $159.15 for transmission fluid. They also told me the rear brakes needed to be done, which was right, but they wanted $510 for that job. The only good thing they had to say was that if I had the oil pan gasket done when they had the transmission out it would cost about half of the quote to do it seperately. Their estimate of all of this work was in excess of $5000. Well the only thing I had them do was replace the battery. The only reason I did that is because the car was there and the battery needed to be replaced.
Like I said the pan is still dripping but I have been able to smear some oil resistant silicone around it and reduce the amount of leakage so right now I can live with it. As for the damage to the wiring harness connector, I cleaned it up with a solution of baking soda and water. Then I sprayed to with clear coat and then covered it with silicone and have had no problems with it. Of course I had to do some other damage control where the battery acid had got to metal areas but that wasn't a real problem. For the rear brakes I did them myself for the cost of the pads.
Sorry this got a little off topic but I just like to get this idea out there once in awhile, that if a person has some mechanical ability, you can save a lot of big bucks doing their own work. I may try to do the oil pan gasket sometime in the future, just don't think it's necessary right now.
I'd say if you have the money and are sure that the shop can honestly do the job then have them do it. $1085 is less than half of the quote that I got from a dealership in Omaha in 2007. Their quote was $218.69 for (stuff to do the oil pan gasket) their exact words, and $2100 labor. That's right $2318.69, I've got the paper right here in front of me. Obviously I said no, it still leaks but only a few drops and every time I run through the car wash I have it sprayed underneath. When it's parked in the garage I have a little pile of kitty litter to collect what drips. Of course my leak is quite small and isn't really noticable on the dipstick between oil changes.
I might mention that this dealership is the same one that wanted me to replace the transmission because the original battery had leaked and somewhat damaged the transmission wiring harness connector (which the genius engineers have located directly under the battery). They said since the wiring harness is hard wired into the transmission the only solution was to replace the transmission. The transmission exchange was going to cost $2910 plus the other harness that plugs into it's harness plus $159.15 for transmission fluid. They also told me the rear brakes needed to be done, which was right, but they wanted $510 for that job. The only good thing they had to say was that if I had the oil pan gasket done when they had the transmission out it would cost about half of the quote to do it seperately. Their estimate of all of this work was in excess of $5000. Well the only thing I had them do was replace the battery. The only reason I did that is because the car was there and the battery needed to be replaced.
Like I said the pan is still dripping but I have been able to smear some oil resistant silicone around it and reduce the amount of leakage so right now I can live with it. As for the damage to the wiring harness connector, I cleaned it up with a solution of baking soda and water. Then I sprayed to with clear coat and then covered it with silicone and have had no problems with it. Of course I had to do some other damage control where the battery acid had got to metal areas but that wasn't a real problem. For the rear brakes I did them myself for the cost of the pads.
Sorry this got a little off topic but I just like to get this idea out there once in awhile, that if a person has some mechanical ability, you can save a lot of big bucks doing their own work. I may try to do the oil pan gasket sometime in the future, just don't think it's necessary right now.
Nope, no salt in Houston. Underneath has a little oil, not too bad becuse most of it seems to hit the exhaust burn up and make for a nasty smell from time to time. But the leak is so little I dont have any spots on my driveway or my parking spot at work. BRUTAL and I have exchanged a few PM's about it and he has offered to help if I decide to fix it. I dont know if I will, I was really just having fun witht he fact that it cost 10 times more then any othe oil pan gasket I've ever had.
Thanks again BRUTAL.
Thanks again BRUTAL.
Last edited by Green Machine; 02-21-2009 at 03:04 PM.
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