So I have the new part, but I have no idea how to disconnect the fitting which is closest to the firewall. Is this a clamp, do i just pull it off, do I have to remove the whole fender? I'm so confused with this now.

Also, a side note. where is the accumulator? I used to have the JTIS, but I lost it when I got windows 7 64 bit.

 

I did this just today! Very timely. the accumulator is basically just behind the headlight on the right side. I assume you have removed the fender liner (skirt). It sits right beside the windsheild washer reservoir. It's held on with two hex head bolts, 8mm head. On the bottom is one nut that holds the line that goes from the the accumulator to the driver. Take the nut off and pull the hose off. The firewall end takes a special tool for removing spring couplers. I'll go shoot a pic here in a minute. But you basically snap the tool around the pipe and press it in. You'll hear a faint snap and the spring gets pushed aside inside the fitting. The you just pull it apart. To reassemble it, it just pushes back together, no tool needed until you hear/feel it snap into place.

 

You can still get it back you know.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/g...rchives-65926/

 

I missed this earlier but I think the accumulator and drier are the same thing, all in one. So you already knew where it was, but it is just one item.
Here are the pictures. The tool is the common Ford spring retainer tool thats been around in Fords since maybe the 80's. I've had these a long time. I think you can see how to employ it from the pics. If not let me know. I think it was the 3/4 inch tool that worked on this fitting.

 

THANK YOU ALFA! I should have known it would take a special tool, but it just looked way too simple to have needed something special like that. I'll go pickup the tool from the parts store tomorrow and finally have everything back together! I was just really stumped because I had it all apart and dangling just waiting to get that quick connector off and I couldn't figure it out for the life of me. Thanks for all the information and the prompt response too!

Norri, I know that I can download the 64 bit version, I just haven't gotten the time to get around to installing it all the way because I have been so busy. Thanks for the link though.

 

One quick note on the tool. With it in place the fitting only moves apart a few millimeters. Then you have to take the tool off to get the pipes completely separate.

OK two quick notes, I had to apply a little lube to the fitting to get the tool to insert properly. I think the problem is the way I was standing I could only feel my way. I couldn't work it and see it at the same time. It would be easier to do this with the fender off, but not necessary. I didn't have to, anyway.

 

Ok, I'll apply a little lube and use the tool to get it to move just a bit and then remove the whole thing. Did you use a regular 6 point wrench on that crazy external torx bolt that runs from the bottom of the accumulator/drier to the compressor?

 

There is a tool for that I got at Harbor Freight. Star bolt I think they call it. But I think you can use anything that fits even a pair of pliers if you have to. Mine was not in there very tight. It came right out. Is your replacement accumulator like mine was, in that you have to remove and reuse that stud bolt in the bottom?

This is nothing, wait until you have to access that 5 point star drive anti-tamper screw on the firewall wiring harness connector. I think I had to pay about $70 for that tool and it's nothing more than a 5 point Torx screwdriver bit.

 

well alfa I did it all today. I had to remove the whole accumulator first to be able to wiggle out the quick connection after I got it out with the special tool you recommended. A word of warning for others though, don't buy the autozone tool that has a hinge in the middle of it. IT IS TERRIBLE!!! I went to oreily and bought a little plastic piece for half the price that worked perfectly! The issue I had was that my stud on the bottom of the accumulator was so rusted that it actually snapped off when I was trying to remove it. I had to go to ace hardware and jimmy rig something to work. Also I had my lower compressor bolt by the serpentine belt break off when i was removing it. So now my compressor is only held on by three bolts, but I'm not going to mess with it because I feel that, that particular bolt is not crucial. I will eventually remove it with a bolt out, but right now I just have to get my car running. The issue I have right now is that I only put in one can (12oz) of r134a into the car and my manifold gauges read 30 psi on both the high and the low side. keep in mind its only 15 degrees Fahrenheit outside so 30 psi on the low side should be plenty for that ambient temp, but I'm wondering why my system only took 12 oz of refrigerant? I don't want to over-charge it but my compressor clutch won't engage. I took out the old compressor cause it wouldn't disengage and now this one won't engage... haha I just hate all these problems

 

I was going to ask if you replaced the compressor. Did you also replace the orifice tube? It is in the other pipe (the smaller one) the runs along the firewall. The reason I was fiddling with mine, while the engine is out and everything is supposed to be easy to reach (HA!), was that while the old engine was still running, the AC system seemed to still have a good charge, my high side pressure was way too high while my low side pressure was really just too low, but the system had little cooling capacity. Generally it had just pathetic, weak performance. So I decided to change everything. When I pulled the orifice tube, the inlet screen was really packed with crap. I also flushed all the tubing and the condenser coils with mineral spirits. What a mess. But I did get a little debris out of the condenser and out of the high side line out of the compressor. I am hopeful once I get the new engine in all will be well with the engine and the AC system at long last.

 

I feel that many xtypes have terrible ac systems just due to the fact that it is so damn hard to troubleshoot them because everything is so hard to get to. Right now, I have spent $400 on the new compressor, reciever/drier, vacuum pump, refrigerant, and manifold gauges and my ac still has gremlins. I am very tempted to just leave it all there right now and not mess with it again until I actually need it in the summer months.

 

Roger that.

Well in case you need it later, the orifice tube is underneath the black plastic braid overwrap in the picture. You can snip the inboard cable tie and slide the braid over toward the fender. The fender side tubing nut fits a 7/8 inch (~22mm) wrench and the inside tube which actually holds the orifice fits a 3/4 inch (19mm) wrench. They're not all that tight as an o ring makes the seal. Pull out the orifice with a needle nose plier, note which end is up, it only goes one way due to the filter screen, lube the new one with PAG oil and put it in. It will stop where it is supposed to, on those dents downstream in the tubing. Replace the sealing o ring and lube it, too. Screw the tubes back together good and snug but not gorilla tight (it's soft aluminum). Slide the braid overwrap back in place and cinch it with a new tie wrap. The only way it could be easier is if you could actually get to it! It's a little tight in there.

 

thanks again alfa for the picture and the info. You're really helping me out on this because the xtype has one of the most hidden ac systems I've ever worked on. I just can't see anything and everything I need to take off has been much harder than I expected to get to. Thanks again! I will return to this thread in a couple of months, but for right now, I just gave it a basic charge with some oil to keep my compressor happy and to keep moisture out.

 

You're more than welcome. It was easy for me since I had the engine out and I could get to everything. Man alive! That is a major, major chore. But we got the new engine and transmission up in there last night and bolted in. Now all the nitnoid reconnection of hoses and wires connectors and fuel and exhaust and all that jazz. Hope to be running up and down the road by Saturday.

 

Dang! Good luck with the engine!

 

Ran out of time! Time out for a business trip. I needed about 6 more hours to complete the project but won't get that 6 hours for another 2 weeks!

 

well thanks for all the input on this. I should be getting my compressor kit today, all recommended replacement components 2002 2004 Jaguar x Type A C AC Compressor Kit | eBay

I think I found a guy with a flushing machine that will come out and flush my ac system, 100 bucks, I think well worth it. 50 bucks normally cause I live at the edge of the world.

I will do a video of the job and post it on youtube and here

 

Sounds great! I still haven't gotten the clutch on my new compressor to engage, and I would love to see a video to make sure I got everything done right.

 

I rarely get a chance to ask this (too the relief of many), but:

"Hard day at the orifice?"

// Bruce laughs madly

Disguay - Double check your AC control settings (pump clutch won't engage if the Temp is set high - unless on Defrost), fuse, connection plug and hand-over-hand the wires to the plug.

Was the problem a blown seal?

 

I"m sure you checked fuse 23...I noticed the JTIS has a great diagnostics to isolate electrical problems also....

I found a mobile mech with a professional ac flushing system, for 250 bucks, he's going to do the work..after all the tools I havce to buy its like only an extra 100 or so for him to do it! We'll see