OK, I had a P0301 and replaced all the plugs and the coil on cylinder 1. It ran very well for a week. My wife was driving it and it died and the check engine light was flashing again. Now the code reader gives me a P1367, P0351, P0353 and P0355. WTF, is going on now? I am totally lost! I thought we had this in the bag. I have checked the meaning of the codes, but this really makes no sense, how can I lose an entire bank of cylinders? Is there a relay or fuse that controls this? Is there a common connector that may be loose? Can someone please help me with some diagnostics or detective work to solve this "new" problem?

 

Tell us what codes mean.

 

Have you tried the pinpoint test shown in the workshop manual?

 

I have not tried this. I am not sure I understand it. I will try to figure out what it means and give it a shot. Where is the ECM?

 

Reading the Jaguar description of your codes, especially P1367, describe your problem pretty clearly!

What it comes down to, is that the Yellow/Green wire from each of the coil packs for cylinders 1, 2 and 3, join together to a single Yellow/Green wire that goes to Pin 131 of the ECU. This single wire is either broken, giving an open circuit or shorting to ground. Either of those two will cause a spark failure to cylinders 1,2 and 3, hence also getting the P0351, 353 and 355.

All the other wires to the coil packs are either individual that would not cause three cylinders to misfire together, or are common to all six coil packs (like the power supply and the ground circuits) and would cause all six cylinders to misfire if faulty.

 

That is awesome. I wish I understood electrical diagrams that would be a huge weapon in my arsenal! I will see if I can track that down ASAP. Let me see if I have this right I am looking for a yellow and green colored wire on cylinders 1,3,5 that is either broken or shorted to ground. Right?

 

Remember, it's a single Yellow/Green wire from the ECU up to a splice point where it divides into three, one to each coil pack. If the fault is a short to ground, that fault could be anywhere along the single or triple wire system, but if it's a break making an open circuit, then it has to be on the length of single wire as it affects all three coil packs.

As the problem has arisen shortly after you fitted new plugs, there's good chance that it has been the result of moving the coil packs around then.

 

Everything is written on diagram, you just need to read! Stare at it for 10 min and you will understand.
Here is electrical diagram secret code:
ECM means ECM
relay means relay etc.

 

Car5car,
Thanks! Those were the only 2 things I didn't understand. Without your help the excellent directions and insight given by astromorg would have been totally wasted. We could all learn from the 2 helpful posts you gave. Don't get me wrong, I truly appreciate help but do not appreciate a smart*** when I am frustrated.

 

Any updates on your problem? I'm having the same issue.

 

I checked pin 131 on the ECU today against the 3 yellow/ green wires and they all checked out as did everything in part A. Everything that was supposed to be greater than 10.5 volts was and everything that was supposed to be less than 5 ohms was as well as continuity from each yellow/green wire to ECU pin #131. The only new wrinkle is that it will not start or turn over now and the dash warning light now says gear box fault. Any new ideas?

 

Wow. When it rains, it pours. I'd start by checking the battery. Low voltage or bad cables can cause spurious codes due to low voltage to the computers and control modules. A recent post by Thermo gives a pretty good description of how to test the battery (post #4)
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...needed-119375/

 

The battery is ok (12.8V) and the cables are fine. The engine does not even try to turn over. No clicks, no nothing just messages on the speedometer that says gear box fault. There is power to the lights and the dash gauges and lights as well. Before this it did start but was only hitting on half the cylinders.

 

[ #11
06-09-2014 01:33 AM by rjcl004
Update
I checked pin 131 on the ECU today against the 3 yellow/ green wires and they all checked out as did everything in part A. Everything that was supposed to be greater than 10.5 volts was and everything that was supposed to be less than 5 ohms was as well as continuity from each yellow/green wire to ECU pin #131. The only new wrinkle is that it will not start or turn over now and the dash warning light now says gear box fault. Any new ideas?
Thanks, I learned something about it doing this.

 

I'm sorry to hear you're still having problems. Have you checked for any codes that might point to the transmission error? I would also check the ECM connection. You might have bent one or more pins in reconnecting it.
It sounds like you haven't had any good results since changing the plugs. Has it started since then? You should check and clean all connections that were removed to change the spark plugs.

 

It started and ran great for about a week. Then the occasional miss fire started again after replacing the faulty coil and then died on my wife about a mile from our home. This is when we lost bank 1. I took it back apart and checked all of the wiring and everything checked out. I put it all back together and I am guessing it will not allow the engine to turn over due to a gearbox fault that shows up on the dash display. I need to check the ECM connection for sure. I did not tighten the odd bolt because I am not sure what tool to actually use on it. Would disconnecting the battery for a while possibly reset things. I love this car but, I don't think it likes me! Sorry I have not gotten back to you, I have been sick.

 

I got the ECU and cable connected well, I hadn't bent any pins. Thank goodness. The gearbox fault is gone but I now have a long list of fault codes. Here they are 1367, 102, 112, 351, 353, 355, 1108, 1532, 1549, and 1000. Are you kidding me? It does start now and runs fine for about 3 seconds then runs like it is miss firing badly. The warning light come on and the display says cruise control not available. Can one of the more experienced members help me figure out what to do? I cannot take it to the dealer, I was told by them that my AC compressor was leaking ($1700), my oil pan gasket was leaking ($1660), and my top radiator hose was leaking ($1000). I don't trust them.

 

This trouble code chart ought to get you pointed in the right direction. I this were my car, I'd clear the trouble codes from the computer, pull the intake off and swap all the coils around from front to rear banks, pull and verify that the spark plug gaps are correct (also see if any of them are wet or look fuel fouled) and then put it back together, run it for a few minutes and then see what type of fault codes your getting after that. You may just find the problem is one or two more bad ignition coils, a pinched wiring harness, or damaged plug boots.

Too bad you don't live in FL, or we'd have you up and running right in no time...

Good luck!

 

The "odd bolt" is a security screw. You can pick up a set of security bits at most hardware stores. They're not that expensive. With the codes you've been getting, the common denominator in all this seems to be the ecu/ wire harness connection. Tighten that screw down so your sure that harness keeps a positive connection to that ecu. Clear codes.


Have you looked throughout the entire harness to see if something may have rubbed or cut through it?


If the issue still exists you may have to ohm out each wire from the ecu to whatever component is giving you a code.


Theres always a possibility you have a bad ecu..

 

How can I test the ECU/ECM? Can I replace it without having to take it to a dealer to have it programmed?

I had a set of security bits but it just stripped out the bolt. I guess I can try to get it out of the connector and maybe cut a line across it with my dremel and maybe use a regular screwdriver. It didnt seem to want to come out, it has a clip or something that holds it in? Does anyone know? It seems like it has to be the connection for that many problems or some short that I dont see.

If I make a pin hole at the end of the wires to check wire to ecu pin how can I seal it?